Validate tune, eliminate need for dyno tuning
#21
ok, just saw this while looking things over again,,,,,you very well could have timing issues going on. the increase in displacement vs the CC of the combustion chamber is bound to have given an increase in compression. the ignition tables in the ecm will most likely not be working in your favor. the ignition timing most likely needs to be addressed!!!
post up pics of the ignition tables.
m
post up pics of the ignition tables.
m
Since my primary concern at the moment is that 350-degree hot rear cylinder (compared to 250 for the front), I assume timing would not be suspect. Though I may benefit from timing work, wouldn't the factory settings be fine from a basic operating perspective? We estimate the CR to be just over 10:1, and there is no discernable pinging.
Frankly, I suspect this is an oiling or assembly issue, but I have to perform due diligence and exhaust other possibilities before I can feel right sending this back to the builder.
Last edited by Z; 08-07-2018 at 05:51 PM.
#22
#23
I have a Power Commander 3 USB and on it are buttons that allow me to adjust the AFR up or down I think by a total of 10% either direction in one of three RPM ranges: low, medium, high.
do you think by adding 10% to the range that includes 2002 3500 should show an appreciable change and that's a reduction in heat? Or will it take more than a 10% change do you think?
#24
#25
The dyno run only represents WOT. As Marcodarq says, your part throttle AFRs are unknown. Only way to know is monitoring on the dyno or install your own AFR gauge. Also agree that stock timing is not acceptable for your build. I would find out what your part throttle AFRs are doing before riding the bike any more.
#26
Sorry for my short post earlier, i was using my phone. You need to have this tune re-evaluated, as mentioned your wot AFR's are not that great, and you mid AFR's are unknown. Timing definitely plays a part here as the stock timing map is built for a very different build, you have added compression and displacement along with other mods that DEFINITELY requires a different than stock curve and different curves for each cylinder. retarded or over advanced timing can cause EXTREME heat issues, in my experience. Most people are stuck in thinking about AFR's but there is ALWAYS more to it than that! I know that it costs money, that is half the reason i got into this business as a teenager. But i have learned many lessons since then.
About using the buttons on the PC3, dont. just Dont, they are nowhere near accurate enough to help you with your issue, except maybe for you to globally richen your map up till you can get it to another tuner to evaluate the areas we have mentioned to you. I also would not recommend riding this bike any farther than you have to, before you get it checked out by a different tuning shop. If you were closer to me, i'd help you out, as I do have a dyno at MY shop. But I'm trying to do the best I can for you from here.
marco
About using the buttons on the PC3, dont. just Dont, they are nowhere near accurate enough to help you with your issue, except maybe for you to globally richen your map up till you can get it to another tuner to evaluate the areas we have mentioned to you. I also would not recommend riding this bike any farther than you have to, before you get it checked out by a different tuning shop. If you were closer to me, i'd help you out, as I do have a dyno at MY shop. But I'm trying to do the best I can for you from here.
marco
#27
The dyno run only represents WOT. As Marcodarq says, your part throttle AFRs are unknown. Only way to know is monitoring on the dyno or install your own AFR gauge. Also agree that stock timing is not acceptable for your build. I would find out what your part throttle AFRs are doing before riding the bike any more.
Sorry for my short post earlier, i was using my phone. You need to have this tune re-evaluated, as mentioned your wot AFR's are not that great, and you mid AFR's are unknown. Timing definitely plays a part here as the stock timing map is built for a very different build, you have added compression and displacement along with other mods that DEFINITELY requires a different than stock curve and different curves for each cylinder. retarded or over advanced timing can cause EXTREME heat issues, in my experience. Most people are stuck in thinking about AFR's but there is ALWAYS more to it than that! I know that it costs money, that is half the reason i got into this business as a teenager. But i have learned many lessons since then.
About using the buttons on the PC3, dont. just Dont, they are nowhere near accurate enough to help you with your issue, except maybe for you to globally richen your map up till you can get it to another tuner to evaluate the areas we have mentioned to you. I also would not recommend riding this bike any farther than you have to, before you get it checked out by a different tuning shop. If you were closer to me, i'd help you out, as I do have a dyno at MY shop. But I'm trying to do the best I can for you from here.
marco
About using the buttons on the PC3, dont. just Dont, they are nowhere near accurate enough to help you with your issue, except maybe for you to globally richen your map up till you can get it to another tuner to evaluate the areas we have mentioned to you. I also would not recommend riding this bike any farther than you have to, before you get it checked out by a different tuning shop. If you were closer to me, i'd help you out, as I do have a dyno at MY shop. But I'm trying to do the best I can for you from here.
marco
I wound up bumping the map by 10% across the entire RPM range using the buttons on the PCIII, just to see what effect it had, and it definitely had an effect. The engine was clearly running rich, and wouldn't idle well if at all. Blipping the throttle in neutral resulted in stumbling. The rear cylinder temps were down to about 325, and the reading the plugs showed a clearly richer condition in both cylinders.
While a understand your point about factory timing not being optimal for my build, I have to wonder if it can be so wrong as to cause this issue. I REALLY don't want this thing back on a dyno to tune the ignition before I have a thousand miles on it, and I REALLY dont want to burn up a piston trying to get those miles on.
My next step will be installing a data logging AFR kit so I can eliminate mixture as an issue. I just need to find the right kit that records AFR as well as RPM. I've been considering the Innovate Motorcsports solution, and I'm also going to look into the Zeitronix product today as well.
I looked around for another local shop to pull AFRs, but the only shop close enough to ride to is booked for 3 months.
Thanks marco for all your help with this.
#29
it is problay as close as amazon- https://www.amazon.com/afr-gauge-wid...uge%20wideband
I use the wide band one and very hapy with it !
I use the wide band one and very hapy with it !
#30
Have you considered ditching the PC and getting a flash tuner that will allow complete tuning as well as allowing data logging? Personally, I prefer the TTS but Power Vision is powerful as well and with it you can watch parameters as you ride.
I feel you would be much better off in the long run. Just something to consider if you haven’t already done so.
I feel you would be much better off in the long run. Just something to consider if you haven’t already done so.