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Validate tune, eliminate need for dyno tuning

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  #21  
Old 08-07-2018, 05:48 PM
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Originally Posted by marcodarq
ok, just saw this while looking things over again,,,,,you very well could have timing issues going on. the increase in displacement vs the CC of the combustion chamber is bound to have given an increase in compression. the ignition tables in the ecm will most likely not be working in your favor. the ignition timing most likely needs to be addressed!!!
post up pics of the ignition tables.
m
According to the map I pulled from my PCIII, the tuner made no timing adjustments: all cells are zero.

Since my primary concern at the moment is that 350-degree hot rear cylinder (compared to 250 for the front), I assume timing would not be suspect. Though I may benefit from timing work, wouldn't the factory settings be fine from a basic operating perspective? We estimate the CR to be just over 10:1, and there is no discernable pinging.

Frankly, I suspect this is an oiling or assembly issue, but I have to perform due diligence and exhaust other possibilities before I can feel right sending this back to the builder.
 

Last edited by Z; 08-07-2018 at 05:51 PM.
  #22  
Old 08-07-2018, 06:11 PM
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After enlarging your dyno sheet, it appears that from 2100rmp to 3500rpm, you are running leaner than 14.7:1. In some areas you're running better than 15+:1. Great for gas mileage...not so great for heat management. Your problem is in your tune.
 
  #23  
Old 08-07-2018, 06:52 PM
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Originally Posted by joe40x
After enlarging your dyno sheet, it appears that from 2100rmp to 3500rpm, you are running leaner than 14.7:1. In some areas you're running better than 15+:1. Great for gas mileage...not so great for heat management. Your problem is in your tune.
Hey Joe, thank you for taking a look at this and for your opinion.

I have a Power Commander 3 USB and on it are buttons that allow me to adjust the AFR up or down I think by a total of 10% either direction in one of three RPM ranges: low, medium, high.

do you think by adding 10% to the range that includes 2002 3500 should show an appreciable change and that's a reduction in heat? Or will it take more than a 10% change do you think?
 
  #24  
Old 08-07-2018, 06:54 PM
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NO the factory timing is Not acceptable for your build. Timing can also cause excessive heat. You have built your engine so far from what the stock map is that with a lean wot afr and unknown part throttle afrs, timing is definitely part of your issues.
m
 
  #25  
Old 08-07-2018, 07:14 PM
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The dyno run only represents WOT. As Marcodarq says, your part throttle AFRs are unknown. Only way to know is monitoring on the dyno or install your own AFR gauge. Also agree that stock timing is not acceptable for your build. I would find out what your part throttle AFRs are doing before riding the bike any more.
 
  #26  
Old 08-07-2018, 08:37 PM
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Sorry for my short post earlier, i was using my phone. You need to have this tune re-evaluated, as mentioned your wot AFR's are not that great, and you mid AFR's are unknown. Timing definitely plays a part here as the stock timing map is built for a very different build, you have added compression and displacement along with other mods that DEFINITELY requires a different than stock curve and different curves for each cylinder. retarded or over advanced timing can cause EXTREME heat issues, in my experience. Most people are stuck in thinking about AFR's but there is ALWAYS more to it than that! I know that it costs money, that is half the reason i got into this business as a teenager. But i have learned many lessons since then.

About using the buttons on the PC3, dont. just Dont, they are nowhere near accurate enough to help you with your issue, except maybe for you to globally richen your map up till you can get it to another tuner to evaluate the areas we have mentioned to you. I also would not recommend riding this bike any farther than you have to, before you get it checked out by a different tuning shop. If you were closer to me, i'd help you out, as I do have a dyno at MY shop. But I'm trying to do the best I can for you from here.
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  #27  
Old 08-09-2018, 10:56 AM
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Originally Posted by jbarr1
The dyno run only represents WOT. As Marcodarq says, your part throttle AFRs are unknown. Only way to know is monitoring on the dyno or install your own AFR gauge. Also agree that stock timing is not acceptable for your build. I would find out what your part throttle AFRs are doing before riding the bike any more.
Agreed. I'm searching for the right AFR gauge and data logging kit so that I can eliminate the need for dyno time, at least for my mixture concerns.

Originally Posted by marcodarq
Sorry for my short post earlier, i was using my phone. You need to have this tune re-evaluated, as mentioned your wot AFR's are not that great, and you mid AFR's are unknown. Timing definitely plays a part here as the stock timing map is built for a very different build, you have added compression and displacement along with other mods that DEFINITELY requires a different than stock curve and different curves for each cylinder. retarded or over advanced timing can cause EXTREME heat issues, in my experience. Most people are stuck in thinking about AFR's but there is ALWAYS more to it than that! I know that it costs money, that is half the reason i got into this business as a teenager. But i have learned many lessons since then.

About using the buttons on the PC3, dont. just Dont, they are nowhere near accurate enough to help you with your issue, except maybe for you to globally richen your map up till you can get it to another tuner to evaluate the areas we have mentioned to you. I also would not recommend riding this bike any farther than you have to, before you get it checked out by a different tuning shop. If you were closer to me, i'd help you out, as I do have a dyno at MY shop. But I'm trying to do the best I can for you from here.
marco
Man, no need to apologize for that. I appreciate every word that every person takes the time to type, and you've been very helpful.

I wound up bumping the map by 10% across the entire RPM range using the buttons on the PCIII, just to see what effect it had, and it definitely had an effect. The engine was clearly running rich, and wouldn't idle well if at all. Blipping the throttle in neutral resulted in stumbling. The rear cylinder temps were down to about 325, and the reading the plugs showed a clearly richer condition in both cylinders.

While a understand your point about factory timing not being optimal for my build, I have to wonder if it can be so wrong as to cause this issue. I REALLY don't want this thing back on a dyno to tune the ignition before I have a thousand miles on it, and I REALLY dont want to burn up a piston trying to get those miles on.

My next step will be installing a data logging AFR kit so I can eliminate mixture as an issue. I just need to find the right kit that records AFR as well as RPM. I've been considering the Innovate Motorcsports solution, and I'm also going to look into the Zeitronix product today as well.

I looked around for another local shop to pull AFRs, but the only shop close enough to ride to is booked for 3 months.

Thanks marco for all your help with this.
 
  #28  
Old 08-09-2018, 11:18 AM
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it is problay as close as amazon-
Amazon Amazon

I use the wide band one and very hapy with it !
 
  #29  
Old 08-09-2018, 11:53 AM
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Originally Posted by Kingglide549
it is problay as close as amazon- https://www.amazon.com/afr-gauge-wid...uge%20wideband

I use the wide band one and very hapy with it !
Thanks, Amazon has a huge selection, for sure, and will probably be where I purchase. First I need to find the right package. I want multi-channel data logging so I can record my AFR and RPM, and maybe even cylinder head temp and oil temp, though the latter two will be later. I'm thinking that if I choose the right lagging product, I'll be able to use most any gauge I want, but choosing the logger must be first.
 
  #30  
Old 08-09-2018, 01:16 PM
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Have you considered ditching the PC and getting a flash tuner that will allow complete tuning as well as allowing data logging? Personally, I prefer the TTS but Power Vision is powerful as well and with it you can watch parameters as you ride.
I feel you would be much better off in the long run. Just something to consider if you haven’t already done so.
 


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