2014 Dyna Fat Bob Intermittent power loss
#1
2014 Dyna Fat Bob Intermittent power loss
Hi! This is my first post, I hope this is the right spot for it.
2014 Dyna Fat Bob with around 2k miles. Been really enjoying the bike and haven't had problems. It had a fuelpak and security fob system installed at the dealership just last month.
Rode it home from work today, and as I pulled to a stop in the driveway the engine just shut off all on its own. I recycled the ignition and hit start and it clicked a couple times then all the electric went dark.
Security system light also went out. Thought I had really screwed something up.
Played with the switches and it was just as though there was no battery at all. Checked the battery power and it was 100%.
I cycled the ignition dial to ACC and I saw some lights come on for a moment then go out. Went back to OFF and the security light was back on.
Went to IGN and was able to start as normal. I pulled engine codes and I saw a front and rear ignition coil code, and a code for the run switch being open/shorted (this has been present for a long time). I checked the spark cables thinking that's what the problem was, but they are secure and attached (as far as I can tell).
I turned the bike off and went into the house. Got called into work and so started up the bike again no problem.
Started out of the neighborhood and this is what happened:
During acceleration, the engine would cut out. Oil pressure lamp (the red one to the right of the N on the indicator strip on the tank) would light. Then the light would go out with the deceleration and power would come back. Happened repeatedly (go, slow, go, slow). I took it back to the house and drove the truck in to work instead.
Haven't had a chance to recheck codes yet, but wanted to see if anyone knows what this is at first blush and I'll update later.
Thanks in advance!
2014 Dyna Fat Bob with around 2k miles. Been really enjoying the bike and haven't had problems. It had a fuelpak and security fob system installed at the dealership just last month.
Rode it home from work today, and as I pulled to a stop in the driveway the engine just shut off all on its own. I recycled the ignition and hit start and it clicked a couple times then all the electric went dark.
Security system light also went out. Thought I had really screwed something up.
Played with the switches and it was just as though there was no battery at all. Checked the battery power and it was 100%.
I cycled the ignition dial to ACC and I saw some lights come on for a moment then go out. Went back to OFF and the security light was back on.
Went to IGN and was able to start as normal. I pulled engine codes and I saw a front and rear ignition coil code, and a code for the run switch being open/shorted (this has been present for a long time). I checked the spark cables thinking that's what the problem was, but they are secure and attached (as far as I can tell).
I turned the bike off and went into the house. Got called into work and so started up the bike again no problem.
Started out of the neighborhood and this is what happened:
During acceleration, the engine would cut out. Oil pressure lamp (the red one to the right of the N on the indicator strip on the tank) would light. Then the light would go out with the deceleration and power would come back. Happened repeatedly (go, slow, go, slow). I took it back to the house and drove the truck in to work instead.
Haven't had a chance to recheck codes yet, but wanted to see if anyone knows what this is at first blush and I'll update later.
Thanks in advance!
#2
Additional info
Cleared the codes, started up the bike and it issue fine. Revvd it up in the driveway a bit and it did cut out once, red oil lamp lit up for a moment, then went out as the bike resumed idling normally. Revvd it up again but couldn't reproduce the cut out. Wondering if they're really is a short in the run switch that is killing the engine as the vibration picks up?
Checked the error codes again after that engine sputter, and the only code was the run switch code.
#4
#5
#6
Thanks
Thanks for the input. I'll look at all those avenues.
Battery voltage off is 12.5v, running is 14.7. i checked the battery leads and found they had come a little loose, there was some blackening on one of the batteba tender leads as well, so it was probably sparking in there. Tightened that down. Hopefully that's it, but I'm still getting that B2206 error persistently showing up after clearing codes.
I pulled the right control wires from the hole in the neck and they looked like in the picture, doesn't seem to be kinked or frayed, but I wouldn't mind a second opinion. I'll check the connection in the housing next. Hopefully the only problem was the loose terminal leads.
#7
I recommend you disconnect those battery connections and clean them thoroughly before refitting. Use dialectric grease during reassembly. Now do exactly the same with the other ends of both main battery cables! Include the tender cables in this tidy up. NOW you will have clean and serviceable main power cables, which you don't have at present. You also now will have a sound basis on which to do any other investigations, if necessary.
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#8
I recommend you disconnect those battery connections and clean them thoroughly before refitting. Use dialectric grease during reassembly. Now do exactly the same with the other ends of both main battery cables! Include the tender cables in this tidy up. NOW you will have clean and serviceable main power cables, which you don't have at present. You also now will have a sound basis on which to do any other investigations, if necessary.
#9
If there has been any sparking, the battery terminals are pretty soft and can get pitted as well as charred, as also will electrical wiring connectors, to a lesser degree. It's just possible it could be quite messy in there at present.
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