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2001 softail efi starts and dies

  #1  
Old 09-08-2007, 12:39 PM
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Default 2001 softail efi starts and dies

My fuel injected heritage starts runs for a couple seconds and dies. Seems to prime the pump and die after that fuel is used. Pump still runs after I cycle the on/off switch.
I took pump out and inspected wires and fuel lines. Replaced line from pump to regulator on dealer suggestion but it didn't make any difference.

Any ideas?
thanks
 
  #2  
Old 03-02-2009, 09:06 PM
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Originally Posted by randyw
My fuel injected heritage starts runs for a couple seconds and dies. Seems to prime the pump and die after that fuel is used. Pump still runs after I cycle the on/off switch.
I took pump out and inspected wires and fuel lines. Replaced line from pump to regulator on dealer suggestion but it didn't make any difference.

Any ideas?
thanks
Nobody ever answered randy. My 2002 FI heritage does the same thing. It starts funs for 2 seconds then dies. It does this 2 or 3 times then runs normal. It's been doing this for the past 2 years, the steeler cant fix it? Any ideas?
Paul
 
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Old 03-02-2009, 09:16 PM
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I was just wondering if you had a security system, possible TSSM failure. Or can you hear a swish noise in the tank while cycling the key...possible pinched regulator oring or cracked retainer tab on the regulator housing??? Just a thought....best of luck.
TOOLBOX
 
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Old 03-03-2009, 08:35 AM
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Yes, it does have the security system. It also doesn't show any error codes. One last piece of info, The turn signals self canceling stopped at about the same time period when the bike started having starting problems.
Paul
 
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Old 03-03-2009, 09:24 AM
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2 thoughts
1.) is your battery still good? Weird stuff happens when the battery is dieing.
2.) Spark Plug wires. Have you put on aftermarket ones? If so try your stock ones to see if it helps. I had a problem with aftermarket braided ones arcing against the engine that would cause the bike to run poorly and cut off.
 
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Old 03-03-2009, 04:49 PM
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Cool Try this:

Bunch of stuff can go wrong to cause and even harder if it's intermittent (esp a 2-year old one!) Do the turn signals work? Security system function properly? "No" to either of these may indicate a TSSM failure or connection problem or an intermittent electrical problem (difficult to track): cancelling factor is one indicator but don't run out and buy a new one yet! No scanner (d01XX) codes? Not unusual esp. for an intermittent to not trip it and MAY eliminate a TSSM problem. Does it do this hot and cold? When you start the bike cold, do you goose it like it was carbed or let it "do it's thing" without touching the throttle while you crank it? EFI is self-enrichening and goes to the proper starting table in ECM when cold. If you goose it cold, it takes it out to the idle-run tables. When you turn on the ignition key, do you hear the IAC pintle in the injector manifold cycling along with pump pressurizing (assuming the '02 has an IAC-too lazy to research)? How's the fuel pump pressure? Have a Service Manual? Need this for when the bike is in the "no run, I'm broke mode", check the CMP flash performing a static test as in Chapter 8. No light? Problem with power to sensor. The following are some ignition tests you can perform using multimeter (DVOM). Better to do them in the bike's "won't start" mode:

*If “engine cranks but does not start”, check module connection under crankcase and perform test #7: LED Flash. Also, check ignition coil hook-ups.

1. BATTERY VOLTAGE WITH KEY ON___________VDC (LOADED BATTERY VOLTAGE)
DVOM LEADS TO BATTERY TERMINALS RECORD VALUE

2. POWER TO COIL________VDC (BATTERY VOLTAGE)
REMOVE W/BLK WIRE TO RIGHT-SIDE OF COIL RED LEAD TO W/BLK WIRE BLK LEAD TO GROUND RECORD VALUE

3. POWER FROM COIL_______VDC (BATTERY VOLTAGE)
RED LEAD TO PINK WIRE TO LEFT-SIDE OF COIL BLK LEAD TO GROUND RECORD VALUE

3A. COIL/WIRE RESISTANCE: PRIMARY 2.5-3.1 OHMS
SECONDARY 10,000-12,500 OHMS
SPARK WIRES=250-583 OHMS per inch

4. SPARK? YES NO
USING COIL TESTER (as in Serv. Man) BLK ALIGATOR TO PINK COIL WIRE O/W ALLIGATOR TO GROUND TOUCH ORANGE PROBE TO BLACK ALLIGATOR OBSERVE SPARK

5. POWER TO MODULE______VDC (BATTERY VOLTAGE)
DISCONNECT DEUTCH PLUG TO MODULE UNDER CRANKCASE REMOVE FEMALE-SIDE ORANGE RETAINER RED LEAD TO W/BLK FEMALE CONNECTOR BLK LEAD TO GROUND RECORD VALUE

6. MODULE GROUND_______OHMS (CONTINUITY)
RED LEAD TO BLK WIRE BLK LEAD TO GROUND RECORD VALUE

7. LED FLASH TEST: FLASHING? YES NO
RE-CONNECT DEUTCH PLUG TO MODULE WITH RUNNING BIKE, OBSERVE RED LED FLASHING ON MODULE

Got you on the "notification" so will keep track: do these and answer the above Q's and I'll come up with some other idears for a fellow Navy Vet.
 
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Old 03-04-2009, 08:38 AM
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It always starts, but it might take 2 to 4 tries. Hot or cold doesn't matter, it starts runs for a second and then stops after it does stay running it runs good. I normally don't goose the throttle but i have tried it, it doesn't help.
I do hear the gas pump running for a second or two, i wait until it stops and then push the start button.

In my 2002 factory softail manual page 8-49 it shows how to set the tssm and ecm without scanalyzer. it has the same symptoms as mine, " VEHICLE STARTS AND STALLS " It says "no stored password causes bad password DTC, fuel flow is stopped"
I wounder if this has anything to do with my bike problems?????
 
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Old 03-04-2009, 11:16 AM
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Does the turn signals flash when the bike is parked for both left & right and hazard mode or is it just the self-canceling mode that does not work? I'm going to think some more on this and get back after turn sig Q's answered. The password will trip it off (bike thinks it's getting stolen) but would show a security problem also. Alarm arms and disarms, right? I'm THINKING it has to do will the engine speed is not being read and the bike not going into the "cranking for starting" ECM mode (injectors stay open longer duration or "what chokes the bike"). I'll nap on it...
 
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Old 03-04-2009, 12:20 PM
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First check your battey cables to be sure they are tight and not corroded inside the cable. Then load test the battery. If all that checks out I would guess it is your bank angle sensor going bad. I believe your BAS is integrated in the TSSM module so you may have to replace the whole thing. But the BAS going bad will act like that for sure.
 
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Old 03-05-2009, 10:06 PM
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Default Long nap...

Been waiting for some more on the turn signals but here goes anyways: It's been doing this for the past 2 years and why I haven't mentioned battery, cables, or the usual since they would have gotten progressively worse over two year period. Plus dealer hasn't been able to locate the problem so I also eliminate more obvious causes. In the absence of failed coil tests, timing, or CMP (exc for the engine speed sensor) from my armchair QB, I suspect the ECM is not receiving information from one of it's sensors to in turn send instructions (output) signals to deliver fuel & spark to the engine while in the while in the starting mode. (KB: I can also believe the BAS is causing problems though; it does shut down the fuel pump and has a part in turn signal operation. But I believe the ECM-internal accelerometer didn't come out until the 2004 model year.) I paraphrase the following from my school notes since when I tried I made mush!: "The ECM refers to various tables according to engine speed and load to then send output signals to the engine components. When an engine is being cranked to start, it rotates very slowly and needs additional fuel. The ECM reads the ET (temperature sensor) and CMP (for engine speed) which tell it it's cold or hot and that it's rotating at cranking speed. The ECM then refers to the Cranking Fuel Look-up Table and directs the fuel injectors to remain open longer (increasing pulse width or time in milli-seconds) dekivering a richer air/fuel mixture for starting. It also directs the IAC (idle air control) to open to it's programmed number of steps to allow enough air into the engine to achieve the desired starting and idle mixture." Long story short, it's not "choking" on starting!
I don't think I can be of any real help since I can't tell you THAT'S IT!: I don't have an E-D Manual (love to have one for reference) and my "newest" manual is for a '01 XL (which is no help for EFI) and it takes both to figuire what is going on (why I like carbs!).
Now the thing that took me a "nap" to think on is: I know the CKP reads engine speed on ESPFI but your year doesn't have one! So, I'm actually stuck between which is reading enginge speed in this case: the CMP (which has an engine speed sensor) or the VSS which my school book says "is used mostly to assist the control of idle speed." but for the ESPFI ('03 & up). The VSS also has a hand in turn signal cancellation (tells module how much time went by based on engine speed) so possibly the above explaination (where I subbed "CMP" from my notes "CKP") the VSS should be substituted. The CKP eliminated the need for the CMP and the ignition module is internal on the 2004 and up.
 
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