Here's a link for the guide: https://app.box.com/s/5ls2mtfhjc8ybcx15f2y

I spent all last month going through the TTS manual, help screens, the Dummies guide, and then tuning my bike. The latest software is newer than the Dummies guide. Some sections in the TTS manual are not up to date with the current software versions, so some screens don't match what's in print. I needed to pull info from all of the above sources, as well as a couple brief calls to TTS, in order to figure it all out. My bike is now tuned.

The MasterTune is a really powerful product, but the documentation is severely lacking. (If the documentation was better, there'd be no need for a "Dummies" guide, right?) The manual explains how to do things, but not why you should or shouldn't. The Dummies guide gives more explanation of what the different steps do, along with some guidance on whether or not you should do them.

Having said all this, I wouldn't be surprised if someone with more TTS experience could tune my bike even better than I did. It's a very complex system. I did an adequate job I think. Have fun.

 

 

Consider that the stock cam has a opening and closing degree values of 02/34, and the 777 has opening closing degree values of 22/42 (exhaust is at least as different) I'd say highly likely. The ECM is using all that info to know when to fire, so if you're at the edge.. .then you would probably get what you are seeing.

 

Mainly VE tables. You should take each file generated tho and run V-tune on it, and load that back into the bike. You won't make incremental improvements if you are always starting with the same loaded map.

 

 

 

Just for kicks here are the DYNO calibration and the FINAL that I did the tunes on it.

DYNO
https://www.dropbox.com/s/0s09gaf0sf...~-001.MT9?dl=0

VTUNED DYNO
https://www.dropbox.com/s/y8sl0yxr07...~-005.MT9?dl=0

 

There isn't much activity in this thread, unfortunately. Have you called TTS? I spoke to them a couple times when I was getting started and they were really helpful. Just out of curiosity, what octane gas do you run?

 

Use the highest octane non ethanol I can use. Sad to hear about the lack of activity... would like someone to look at my calibrations and see what they think. Thanks for replying.

 

I wanted to post a few experiences and with the MasterTune, which came on the Dyna Low Rider I bought 4 months ago. The bike came with a mild decal pop issue. It already had stage 1, but I changed the intake and decided to retune using Flight Recorder. I did about 10 hours of recording in every kind of riding I could do, but I wasn't able to eliminate it. After each tuning session, the software stated more tuning was required, but after 10 hours I didn't see the point in doing anymore, so I set the values back as needed and flashed it.

One thing that was in the back of my mind though, was the possibility of an exhaust leak. I knew this can cause popping, but I didn't know how to check it. Then I discovered the shop-vac technique - spray soapy water on the exhaust flanged, set the shop-vac to blow air into the exhaust pipes, and look for bubbles. There were lots of bubbles, yeah, I had leaks.

I installed new exhaust gaskets and I used Permatex Copper sealant, let it cure for 24 hours, and voila, nice & sealed. So I decided to retune. Big difference now! After only 4 rides, maybe 6-7 hours, the data was steady and consistent. The software was no longer saying "more tuning required." I did one more FR run for the sole purpose of doing some wide open throttle runs, mostly in gears 1-4. I flashed the final tune to the bike tonight and will see how it is in a day or so.

Exhaust leaks are obviously not good, and this example showed me they can really mess with the tuning, because the O2 sensors are never really getting a good read. SO...if anyone is having issues like I had, check those flanges.