Just picked up an '82 FXR, unknown if it even runs, the starter and solenoid was taken off, bought a new solenoid and had the starter rebuilt. Installed the parts, hooked up the battery, hit the button and it started turning over, only problem was the starter kept on going even after letting go of the button and even after turning off the ignition switch, finally died out. Checked what I could, tried to start and same thing happened again, this time I yanked the battery cable. The previous owner kind of half assed re-wired the bike, you can see all the splices and different wires. Could it be the starter relay, It seems to be wired correctly per the wiring diagram I got off line, but those wires have been spliced. What do you think?

 

Weak solenoid plunger spring, bad starter clutch or your wiring is wrong and when you let off the switch it keeps feeding current. It could be a faulty relay too.

When the starter switch is released, the current of the hold-in
winding is fed through the main solenoid contacts and the
direction of the current in the pull-in winding is reversed. The
solenoid plunger is returned to its original position by the
return spring, which causes the pinion gear to disengage
from the clutch ring gear.

 

is this fixed? I had the exact same issue and it was a weak battery. I was sceptical at first, but turned out that the battery had enough amps to engage the solonoid contacts and kick the starter gear into the clutch ring gear, but not enough umph to actually start the bike. The starter pinion gear was getting stuck in the ring gear by the torque between the gear teeth thus holding the solonoid contact in never letting it release (there is an arm that connects the two). Turning off the ign wont stop this, the solonoid comes off the battery BEFORE the ignition swtch...as long as the contacts are held in by the arm in the starter the battery will keep powering it.

Get a new battery (with a butt ton of cranking amps.)

 

The things mentioned here are good to look at first. The main thing you need to do is to disconnect the wire going to the starter and get it up and out of harms way. That means make sure it isn't hitting the frame or engine. Then, turn on the ignition and hit the starter button. If the solenoid pushes the starter drive out against the clutch hub and when you release it it falls back where it should be, the wiring is ok and it is probably misaligned, the starter plate is worn or the aluminum flange that the starter is bolted up to is cracked. If the starter drive and solenoid don't release, it is wired wrong. It is not impossible for the solenoid to backfeed and hold the starter engaged. The relays started in about 1980. It isn't impossible for that to fail as well. Some of my oldies have had the switch in the handlebars go bad because they didn't run through relays. All in all, a fresh start with no buggered up wires is a nice as well. Good luck. Ken

 

X2 good advice.

If the solenoid releases with the starter disconnected the problem lies with low voltage/high current which can be caused by cables battery solenoid or the starter. If the battery voltage drops below 10 volts when cranking either the battery is bad or the starter is drawing it down. There may be a voltage drop across the cables and or solenoid?

 

This was my problem, low voltage due to bad battery. I like that troubleshooting advice above, never thought about that.

Hint: DO NOT buy the starter relay thru a catalog or HD Stealer. It is a standard Bosch relay that costs less than 2 bucks at the local auto parts store.

 

nnnnnnn

 

i have the same problem . the starter wont disengage or turn over the motor . even jumped it off my truck . i looked in the inspection cover and the gears are hooked still . i hit the starter gear off the clutch then it releases . tried again and same thing . worked fine 6 mo. ago . it was a new spike starter , do i need a more powerfull one now ?

 

had the same thing happen on my sportster ---hit the starter - and every 4th or 5th time the starter would stay engaged ---had to pull the battery cable to get it to stop --turned out to be -one spring on the mechanical advance broke and would hold the weights in the -full-advance position -while starting -causing a huge current draw --welding the contacts ----tip ---when changing the springs use a small drill bit to relive the sharp corners where the spring goes thru the weights -[ that sharp corner is what makes them break ]

 

mine did the same thing --hit the start --starter stays running --had to pull the battery cable --turned out to be a broken spring on the mechanical weights --it held the advance on -the motor would want to fire to soon starting backwards --causing a huge current draw --welding the contacts --TIP --when replacing the springs --use a small drill to round the corners off --where the spring goes thru the weights --that's where they break -