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Popping when shifting

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  #1  
Old 04-21-2009, 12:53 PM
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Default Popping when shifting

I'm not sure if this is the right area or not, but I sure can use some help. I have a 05 Road Glide with Rinehart TDs, screaming eagle a/c with K&N filter, PCIIIUSB, dynoed by a Dynojet dealer/HD dealer. The bike pops when shifting, mainly from 3rd to 4th, but can do it 1st to 2nd or occasionally 4th to 5th. Does not pop until bike is good and warm, the warmer the outside temperature, the more it pops. Removed PCIII, pop the same to more. Installed my leaner FuelMotto map, pops more than dealer's dynoed map. Definitely pops more when hot outside. Dealer has had the bike twice. They re-tuned on their dyno, verified map, pulled codes - none, ran diagnostics, replace throttle positioner and voltage regulator, re-flashed ECM, checked for exhaust leak - none. Dealer stated that this bike does not a problem. It popped when riding home from the dealer. Not convinced that it's not an exhaust leak, I replaced the exhaust gaskets at the head with screaming eagle gaskets, torqued, than re-torqued after a couple hundred miles, pulled mufflers and sealed with high temp sealant, cleaned and oiled a/c filter. Still popping. As it is starting to get warmer, it is starting to pop more. Any thoughts of where to go from here? I do have an extended warranty, but dealer says that I don't have a problem, said that they were going to call Harley, but don't figure that ever happened.
Thanks,
Mike
 

Last edited by StL Mike; 04-21-2009 at 01:05 PM.
  #2  
Old 04-21-2009, 01:32 PM
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The popping that I had when I slowed or when I shifted was taken care of by adding fuel in the PC3 map. Look at the map that the bike runs best with and add fuel in the zero percent throttle in the 1200 to 3000 RPM range. I'd start by adding 5 points to what's there and go up or down from that. I think mine is running about 7 points over zero and sometimes could use a little more.
 
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Old 04-21-2009, 02:30 PM
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John,
I'll try adding the fuel, can't hurt, but the dealer never duplicated the pop because I assume that they didn't do much shifting while on the dyno. The question that I have is why did it run so well for so many miles? What changed? I did try to spray the intake with WD-40 to see if the RPMs changed - not that I could tell.
Mike
 
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Old 05-07-2009, 11:59 PM
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Here are some notes I got from Dyno Jet when I questioned them regarding deceleration popping:
  • For older Magnetti-Marelli fuel injected bikes, adjusting the fuel table to remove fuel can help reduce popping. Highlight the zero percent column from 2,000 rpm to redline and enter in values from -40 to -50. Run the bike and see if the popping has reduced. Sometimes, the throttle position may not show zero at idle and should be correctly adjusted with the bike at full operating temperature to make sure it is reading zero.
  • On newer Delphi fuel injected bikes, we have found that adding fuel is needed to reduce popping. Highlight the zero percent column and instead of using negative numbers, try adding fuel to the map. Start with putting a value of 25 in the cells and see if the popping has reduced.
  • Adjusting the ignition table could also help in deceleration popping. Advance the timing in the zero percent column 3 to 5 degrees to see if popping has been reduced.
 
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Old 05-08-2009, 04:17 PM
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some good ideas thanks guys -ride safe
 
  #6  
Old 05-08-2009, 05:08 PM
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Note that all Dyno's are done the same or correctly. Some Dyno Techs tune for WOT Performance so they can show you the print out with the pretty HP numbers.

A good MAP build needs to be done over the whole range. But even then real life riding is different from the Dyno so some additional tweeking may be needed.

After My Dyno, I richened up the low end for traffic and parade riding, and leaned out the cruising range for more mileage.

Small adjustments to your MAP are usually OK you just need to save your MAP so you can always GO back to where you started. The advice to add Fuel to 0% fuel at 200+ RPM is good if you are getting popping on Decel. But you are probably not going down to 0% on shifts. You might need to add a little bit of fuel to your High RPM Range and partial throttle range.

As for why it shows up now is maybe you ride harder now than you used to. Or your timing chains are starting to stretch and you bike is a little bit of of time.
 
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