Completely Disabling Buttonless Fob Security Systems ('07 up)
#41
03-07-2022, 02:37 PM
Stage I
I was just about to start this procedure on my 2010 iron, but I have an issue.
I lost my only key and fob while riding the bike last.
I switched off the bike by pulling the main fuse and this has allowed the bike to be restarted as the immobiliser is already disarmed.
is there a way to do this with out a key for the ignition? can I just pull the main fuse or does that just mess up the procedure?
I lost my only key and fob while riding the bike last.
I switched off the bike by pulling the main fuse and this has allowed the bike to be restarted as the immobiliser is already disarmed.
is there a way to do this with out a key for the ignition? can I just pull the main fuse or does that just mess up the procedure?
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Ronnie1962 (06-29-2022)
#42
03-26-2022, 05:41 PM
Tourer
#43
06-30-2022, 06:23 PM
Stage I
#44
07-09-2022, 07:51 AM
Roeder's HD
I used to work for the old Roeder's HD in Sandusky, till they went out of business. The old owners brother (who used to do all the machine and headwork for the dealership) started up Roeder Racing after the dealership closed. I work for him at his shop, we are a full service shop and we have a full machine shop for the perfomance work. we are also a used bike dealer.
My '98 Springer came from Roeder's. Still has the Roeder HD medallion on the oil tank dipstick!
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harleytuner (10-09-2022)
#45
01-12-2023, 10:18 PM
#47
05-23-2023, 06:40 AM
The correct part number is in the first post on this thread... I did the swap on my '10 Street Glide following the thread's instruction procedure and it worked like a charm. I didn't want the security feature anymore (never did, but the motorcycle came with it) and I didn't want to rely on the key fob for starting. During the swap of the turn signal modules, the motorcycle's ignition has to be on for about a half hour so I followed the suggestion of using a high output battery tender (I can confirm which one later if you like) and kept the motorcycle on the battery tender while performing the turn signal module swap. No problems since and it's been about 2-3 years.
#48
05-23-2023, 07:34 PM
Stage II
Join Date: May 2023
Location: King nc
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Fob delete
The correct part number is in the first post on this thread... I did the swap on my '10 Street Glide following the thread's instruction procedure and it worked like a charm. I didn't want the security feature anymore (never did, but the motorcycle came with it) and I didn't want to rely on the key fob for starting. During the swap of the turn signal modules, the motorcycle's ignition has to be on for about a half hour so I followed the suggestion of using a high output battery tender (I can confirm which one later if you like) and kept the motorcycle on the battery tender while performing the turn signal module swap. No problems since and it's been about 2-3 years.
#49
08-05-2023, 08:56 PM
Stage I
Join Date: Jan 2020
Location: South Florida
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#50
09-19-2023, 09:52 AM
2022 Nightster keyfob
For those of you do-it-yourselfers out there (like me) who don't want to have to make the trip to the dealer every time they want something done, let me relate my experience with removing the TSSM non-pushbutton security system on my '08 Ultra. This may work for other bikes, but I'm not a factory mechanic - so I can only confirm that this will work on '07 and later touring. One of the advantages of doing this yourself is that you can keep your original module (along with a printout of this post) and re-install it at any time without another trip to the dealer, or if the bike's new owner wants a security system.
The factory security system is contained within the Turn Signal Module (TSM), which becomes a Turn Signal Security Module (TSSM) when it is so equipped. If you are disabling the TSSM (do NOT want a security system on your bike) then you have a TSSM installed now, HD p/n 68924-07. This is a roughly cone-shaped device in a black plastic case, mounted vertically under the seat and to the right (starboard) side. Mine was held down with a silver metal clip. The first thing we need to do is replace this item with a NON-security equipped TSM.
So before you go hunting for the TSSM on your bike and removing it, buy the part you're going to replace it with - in this case, HD p/n 68920-07. They are $114 new from Harley, but I found many on eBay and bought one for $24.95 including shipping to my door. You will also need (highly recommended) a 2 amp (or so) motorcycle battery charger to complete the job safely.
Okay - now, we have everything we need to do the job completely. Find the TSSM under the seat of your bike, remove the clip, and lift it out. There will be TWO connectors plugged in to it; remove both. Note that one of the plugs is larger than the other - this is the input, ECM, and turn signal connector - we will use this again. The smaller plug is the output for pager and siren - tape that one up to protect it and set it aside for now. Plug the larger plug into your new TSM, and slide the assembly back into place, carefully storing the loose connector where it won't rattle or take too much wear.
Whoa. That's it?
Nope. If you try to start your bike at this point, it will rumble and die, and you'll be cursing me for life. The bike knows that the security system has been compromised, and is trying to protect you, the owner. Getting it to feel all warm and fuzzy about its new body parts takes another half an hour - which kind of discourages the swap-out-and-quick-getaway-routine by a more unscrupulous rider who just happens to be enamored with your new paint job.
In the next step, we're going to have the bike's ignition (and lighting) on for more than half an hour, so here's the part where we plug in a 2 amp battery charger to keep things live. With the battery charger hooked up, perform the following:
1. Be sure the ignition has been OFF for 15 seconds or more before starting the procedure.
2. Set Run/Off switch to RUN.
3. Turn ignition key on, do not start. Verify that the Check Engine Light and Security Light come on, and wait for them to go out.
4. Attempt a normal start with the Start button. Engine should come to life and then die. The Check Engine Light should light up and stay on.
5. Wait ten seconds. The Security Light now comes on. The ECM has now entered communication mode with the TSM for the next ten minutes. Look at your watch and do something else for the next ten minutes, but don't shut off the bike, let the battery die, flip any switches, or unplug anything electrical. Just polish the fenders or something.
6. In ten minutes, the security light will turn off. Within 15 seconds, turn the ignition key Off and back On. This Off-On motion should be crisp, completed in two seconds or less. The Security Light comes back on, and you have another ten minute wait.
7. When the Security light goes out again, repeat step six.
8. When the Security Light goes out this time, do the Off-On thing, then when the Security Light comes back on again, shut the ignition OFF. Wait at least 15 seconds, during which time you should be (carefully) unplugging your battery charger (unplug from the wall outlet, then from the bike, right...?).
9. With 15 seconds or more gone by, turn your ignition on, confirm the Run button, confirm neutral, and start your bike. You've created a happy marriage between your ECM and the new TSM, and you no longer have to worry about having a key fob or memorizing a security code. Now you can just worry about someone riding off with your bike whilst you're suckin down a brew in the local pub - use the fork lock!
If you're like me, you'll never remember all this two years from now when you're selling your bike, so print this out, take the battery out of your key fob, and put the fob, TSSM, and this paper in a ziplock bag and store it wherever you would go to look for it two years from now. Happy riding!
The factory security system is contained within the Turn Signal Module (TSM), which becomes a Turn Signal Security Module (TSSM) when it is so equipped. If you are disabling the TSSM (do NOT want a security system on your bike) then you have a TSSM installed now, HD p/n 68924-07. This is a roughly cone-shaped device in a black plastic case, mounted vertically under the seat and to the right (starboard) side. Mine was held down with a silver metal clip. The first thing we need to do is replace this item with a NON-security equipped TSM.
So before you go hunting for the TSSM on your bike and removing it, buy the part you're going to replace it with - in this case, HD p/n 68920-07. They are $114 new from Harley, but I found many on eBay and bought one for $24.95 including shipping to my door. You will also need (highly recommended) a 2 amp (or so) motorcycle battery charger to complete the job safely.
Okay - now, we have everything we need to do the job completely. Find the TSSM under the seat of your bike, remove the clip, and lift it out. There will be TWO connectors plugged in to it; remove both. Note that one of the plugs is larger than the other - this is the input, ECM, and turn signal connector - we will use this again. The smaller plug is the output for pager and siren - tape that one up to protect it and set it aside for now. Plug the larger plug into your new TSM, and slide the assembly back into place, carefully storing the loose connector where it won't rattle or take too much wear.
Whoa. That's it?
Nope. If you try to start your bike at this point, it will rumble and die, and you'll be cursing me for life. The bike knows that the security system has been compromised, and is trying to protect you, the owner. Getting it to feel all warm and fuzzy about its new body parts takes another half an hour - which kind of discourages the swap-out-and-quick-getaway-routine by a more unscrupulous rider who just happens to be enamored with your new paint job.
In the next step, we're going to have the bike's ignition (and lighting) on for more than half an hour, so here's the part where we plug in a 2 amp battery charger to keep things live. With the battery charger hooked up, perform the following:
1. Be sure the ignition has been OFF for 15 seconds or more before starting the procedure.
2. Set Run/Off switch to RUN.
3. Turn ignition key on, do not start. Verify that the Check Engine Light and Security Light come on, and wait for them to go out.
4. Attempt a normal start with the Start button. Engine should come to life and then die. The Check Engine Light should light up and stay on.
5. Wait ten seconds. The Security Light now comes on. The ECM has now entered communication mode with the TSM for the next ten minutes. Look at your watch and do something else for the next ten minutes, but don't shut off the bike, let the battery die, flip any switches, or unplug anything electrical. Just polish the fenders or something.
6. In ten minutes, the security light will turn off. Within 15 seconds, turn the ignition key Off and back On. This Off-On motion should be crisp, completed in two seconds or less. The Security Light comes back on, and you have another ten minute wait.
7. When the Security light goes out again, repeat step six.
8. When the Security Light goes out this time, do the Off-On thing, then when the Security Light comes back on again, shut the ignition OFF. Wait at least 15 seconds, during which time you should be (carefully) unplugging your battery charger (unplug from the wall outlet, then from the bike, right...?).
9. With 15 seconds or more gone by, turn your ignition on, confirm the Run button, confirm neutral, and start your bike. You've created a happy marriage between your ECM and the new TSM, and you no longer have to worry about having a key fob or memorizing a security code. Now you can just worry about someone riding off with your bike whilst you're suckin down a brew in the local pub - use the fork lock!
If you're like me, you'll never remember all this two years from now when you're selling your bike, so print this out, take the battery out of your key fob, and put the fob, TSSM, and this paper in a ziplock bag and store it wherever you would go to look for it two years from now. Happy riding!
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