Did the PV full recovery last evening. Video and site was very helpful and all went as it should. THEN I loaded the newest FW and tuning data base.

1 question - when I looked at the 2 OEM STK files I had 2 saved on my PC already - 1 set of them has a very long string name starting with "ANK". And the other set of OEM STK files have a much shorter string name. The ones that were on my PV before the recovery process had the short name. SO I off loaded them to my desk top and then reloaded them manually once the PV was done with the recovery. 1 of the STK files was marked 06 and one was marked 13 so I figured the 06 was my UC and the 13 is my 1200C. I think the longer file named files were from when I originally got my PV with FW that was much older?

Could it be that as the FW changed I was asked when I connected up my PV to my bikes if I wanted to save the OEM data and that's when it renamed them to a much shorter file names?

Either way I should be good to go. I hope to try the PV on my Sportie this weekend with the gauges on the screen and see if I notice anything.

Thanks for the great support FM!!!

 

Damm i love dyno-jet, and fuel moto<jamie>, lol sorry, just when somethings great and works i get excited!!!

 

I completed the factory recovery function on my PV, first ride with it this morning and gauge mode blanked out again about 1 mile in. I will next check and adjust the cable route and update after.

 

Anybody help here? The PV2 on my 17 M8 FLHR has a Live Idle function found in the Progam Vehicle screen on the lower right. It does not function. I wrote DJ and the fellow said this won’t work on 17^ touring models.

I opened win pv and retrieved my current auto tune assuming I could change the Idle in there, but see nothing in any of the tables. So how is idle programmed? There has to be a way somewhere...

 

Live Idle is not an active feature on the M8 bikes, however you can adjust the idle speed in your calibration in the WinPv software under Airflow>Idle RPM. If it is not showing as an active tune item you will need to simply update your tune. Make sure you have the latest firmware & tune database in your PV device and plug it in via USB, open your calibration, from the upper drop down menu select PowerVision>Update tune using PV and it will update your tune with the latest tables.

 

I was trying not to bother you guys with basics; I am nonetheless impressed with how quickly you jumped in. Thanks Jamie!

I’ve had this a couple of weeks now and have managed to pick 2 cams you hadn’t had time to look at yet, but wanted to let you know you were close with the tunes. Some auto runs and all is settling in nicely. Can’t believe the increased throttle response going from the 447 to the 460!

It has been a delight dealing with you guys. Even without the low prices your after the sale support would have justified my purchase.

 

Just a short note after a late summer upgrade of my Fuel Moto Big Bore 107" Electraglide that Jamie's team built for me in winter of 2015. I keep the Powervision on the Handlebars, monitor engine temp (although the 107 has proven to run just as nicely as my stock 96, with a simple 5 row Jagg oil cooler), spark knock, MAP, etc.

When I initially had the build done, Target Tune was not available. When it did become available, my bike was running so well, I didn't see why I would need to spend the extra money. But this summer, I had a rear O2 sensor fail, and started getting intermittent bursts of spark knock hits and a DTC of an O2 high reading message. Some quick research indicated I probably had a bad sensor. I figured it would be about $75 per sensor and I might need the other soon as I now have 80K on the bike, so I checked and the price of a TT kit was $399 FuelMoto.

So I ordered up a TT kit from FuelMoto, which for my 07 with a V&H Propipe is a great fit as I already have the right sized sensor bungs (12mm I believe). I needed a standard 7/8ths deep sensor socket for the removal/install of the new sensors which was a standard automotive sensor socket.

The install was really quite easy. I took my time and had a friend help feed me the wires I needed to dress back to the TT module.

I've put a couple thousand miles on the bike since I installed the TT. It took maybe a hundred miles or less to "learn" the bike and make an initial real difference in the smoothness and some small (maybe) added power to the bike. I did a set of "autotune" runs, just because you can, but really I don't think I noted much difference at all from that. But, I will say that over the past month and the colder weather the bike seems to just continue to run smoother, my riding buddies say it even sounds better. It just purrs.

If you're on the fence about Target Tune, go for it. It will dial in your ride that last couple 1 or 2% that just gives the feel of "perfectness" to the tune.

I couldn't be more pleased with the results.

 

Wow, @iclick started this thread in March of 2011, this is the first time I've seen it take a breather.

Maybe it's a pre-holiday break. I'll say this, I've had my PV since my PCiii died in 2012 and it has been great. I fully appreciate all of the experts out here who support us guys that aren't rocket scientist on the intricacies of engine tuning.

If you're a beginner and want to get a good background in EFI basics, here's a presentation that got shared a couple years ago that I've found very helpful.

EFI Basics

 

I love the Power Vision and the tune I got from Fuel Moto. However, I am also experiencing this gauge interruption issue. I originally routed the cable under the left side of the fuel tank close to the spark plugs. After speaking to Fuel Moto and DynoJet they convinced me it was RFI from the ignition. I upgraded the Power Vision firmware (twice). Next I routed the cable under the right side of the console - no joy. Then I pulled the gas tank and routed the cable under the tank to the right of the wire tray - no joy. Then I purchased a second cable about 2 months ago. That cable when laying over the top of the tank did not solve the problem either. At no time did anyone at Fuel Moto or DynoJet mention the availability of a shielded cable. Then I read in this thread about interference from the Love Jugs Mighty Might fans when connected to the Accessory switch. Sure enough - took a ride with the fans off (Accessory switch off) and no problem. Some here have cut off the accessory plug and wired fans direct to battery, but I'm reluctant to do that yet. Is there any reason the accessory connector should generate this troublesome RFI? Is there a fix for that?

 

Its actually the fans that are generating the RFI, but it's radiating along the cable when they are switched on. The cable and switch are in proximity to the PV if it's mounted on the handlebars.

Comon fixes for this type of problem in the electronics world are shielded cables (properly terminated) and chokes placed in the cable to knock down the RFI.

Neither are practical in your case, so consider relocating the power switch away from the handlebars (don't use the accessory switch). Perhaps a switch or plug located under the seat or in the side covers.