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Occasional misfire at cruise

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  #11  
Old 05-08-2011, 12:03 PM
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Originally Posted by Old Gunny
Try gapping the plugs to 0.035. 0.040 is for the very lean stock running condition, which you don't have. and 0.030 is just too small to get things going good.
I had been running .040", but on the last set of plugs I went with .038". Anyway, I'm running 14.6:1 in the region where the misfire has been occurring, although switching to 13.5:1 doesn't change anything.

Check the battery ground. With a stock setup the battery ground is only at one place, to the frame close by, on my FLSTS. I added another to a transmissing bolt head to give that area some help..
Never thought of that one, but if so why would it do it in such a narrow window and not, say, at WOT or idle? I'll check it out for possible corrosion.
 
  #12  
Old 05-09-2011, 08:43 AM
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At WOT and also at Idle "Zero" Throddle opening, the program more that likely isn't set to 14.6. More like 13.2 or Open Loop.

With some Tuners you can adjust the AFR "Bias" tables to actually lower the AFR a little in Closed Loop.

And run at 14.2 instead of 14.6. But still be in Closed Loop.

That Nightrider thing does the same.

Still sounds like a Lean Miss.
 

Last edited by Old Gunny; 05-09-2011 at 08:47 AM.
  #13  
Old 05-09-2011, 12:53 PM
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Originally Posted by Old Gunny
At WOT and also at Idle "Zero" Throddle opening, the program more that likely isn't set to 14.6. More like 13.2 or Open Loop.
It's running 13.0 at 80-100% TP and around 14.2 at idle, but AFR appears to be irrelevant. As I mentioned before, when this problem first surfaced last year I had the PCV-AT installed and I could toggle between two maps on-the-fly, one rich (13.5) and one lean (14.6) in the cruise range, and the map didn't make any difference. I'm running open-loop now with the PV but the AFR's are the same as before, although I don't have the ability to switch on-the-fly between maps now.

Again, AFR's don't make any difference in whether or not the bike misfires.
 
  #14  
Old 05-09-2011, 01:15 PM
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  #15  
Old 05-09-2011, 02:47 PM
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If a sensor would maybe a code.
If no code could still be a spark problem but maybe the coil. Or the coil primary connection or ground. Lost of voltage there.
 
  #16  
Old 05-09-2011, 09:02 PM
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If you have an intermittent miss and can not find it try this.
With the bike idling use a wooden dowel etc and start moving the injector wires at the
injector. Some years like my 2002 the injector wire was tie wrapped to tight and the
vibration breaks the wire inside of the insulation. Ask me how I know!!!!!!!!!!!
Usually the injector wire on the front cyl.
 
  #17  
Old 05-10-2011, 02:35 PM
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Sounds like ing to me. If the bike pulled enough timing to make it miss... that wouldn't show as a code. I went back to totally stock configuration to have the ION work its best. Stock wires, plugs and coil. I even ordered new STOCK wires and took the SEs off the bike.

If it ever misses again... change the coil.

BTW... stock configured a bike can pull as much a 6* timing if a hard enuff knock is encountered. Also... the ONLY sensor involved with knock retard is the ION sense through the coil.

Click... I'm unsure of the Vision. Can you do data runs and log data for later viewing? I use the Datamaster in TTS to look for ping and then go back and remove 1/2 point timing at a time to cure. AKR will pull timing even if the ping isn't audible to the ear. If you CAN use the V to look at data... remember that by the time it is recorded... the event/ cell/ load that caused the pulled timing is already past. Look a couple records BEFORE you see timing being pulled.

Myself? I think the new wires fixed it. The new plugs had a better resistance than when they aged. If the wires were on the edge, too... AKR could have been coming into play.

Adding a ground strap is always a good play, too.
 

Last edited by wurk_truk; 05-10-2011 at 02:41 PM.
  #18  
Old 05-10-2011, 02:48 PM
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Originally Posted by wurk_truk
Sounds like ing to me. If the bike pulled enough timing to make it miss... that wouldn't show as a code.
It's not pulling much, only 2° max and that for <1 sec. The misfire is very rare, but a 10-min. datalog cycle will show at least 2-3 knock-retard events, all in that range and for only a short time. It often comes out of the blue, even when no changes take place (TP, MAP, or RPM). Most of the time in those conditions it will not perform a knock-retard, and the events are very random.

I went back to totally stock configuration to have the ION work its best. Stock wires, plugs and coil. I even ordered new STOCK wires and took the SEs off the bike.
I changed to SE wires since my dealer had no OEM wires in stock. No problems since doing that 2½ weeks ago and running name-brand gas, and there have been ample opportunities and perfect conditions for it to misfire in that time span. I'm leaning toward using discount gas too often, which may be causing some injector clogging. I have no evidence for this, but since it is the easiest fix I want to talk myself into it.

If it ever misses again... change the coil.
That's the plan, but I'm keeping my fingers crossed.

BTW... stock configured a bike can pull as much a 6* timing if a hard enuff knock is encountered. Also... the ONLY sensor involved with knock retard is the ION sense through the coil.
Mine was to set for 8° max retard, but I changed it to 4° some time ago. In the past several months the datalogs show almost no knock-retard values >2°.
 
  #19  
Old 05-15-2011, 06:20 PM
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Can you describe what it feels like when it happens? My 09 flstc just started this a few weeks ago. Seems like it's missing for just a split second, then is fine. Hardly affects driving, but is getting really annoying. Same as you, it usually only happens in 6th under slight load. I thought the clutch slipped for a second the first time it happened, but the rpms never changed. Pretty sure it's a misfire.
 
  #20  
Old 05-20-2011, 03:23 PM
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Originally Posted by jlasoftail
Can you describe what it feels like when it happens? My 09 flstc just started this a few weeks ago. Seems like it's missing for just a split second, then is fine. Hardly affects driving, but is getting really annoying. Same as you, it usually only happens in 6th under slight load. I thought the clutch slipped for a second the first time it happened, but the rpms never changed. Pretty sure it's a misfire.
It feels like you describe, a dead miss like one cylinder doesn't fire on that revolution. It may happen twice or rarely several times within a few seconds, but almost always goes away after a few miles. It usually just misses once, then maybe once more within a mile or so, then it doesn't happen again for the duration of the ride.

FWIW, I haven't had a recurrence in about a month now, since changing the plug wires and running only name-brand fuel--i.e., no discount gas. I just completed a 1500-mile ride into AR and MO and it didn't miss a lick the entire trip, even though there was ample opportunity for it to happen. Out of four days riding, 3½ were against stiff headwinds, and that has historically encouraged the problem.

I'm leaning towards a clogged injector that is cleaned when I use gas that has a better additive package. That's just a guess, but it makes sense to me, as in the past I've used discount gas almost exclusively.

Try using name-brand gas and let us know if that helps.
 


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