Used 07 Road Glide 30K milesRinehart out, stage 1 in, race tuner, battery less than 1 yo, no codes or CEL, fuel pump and light come on then a few seconds later turn off consistently. Daily driver starts/runs fine going to work and at end of day going home, cold start. Recently after good warm up ride 20- 30 minutes short quick stop and go for gas, groceries etc. Bike won't run. Cranks ok, cycle main and ignition switch no joy. Try several times over 15 minute period and cranks fine just won't fire. Wait 2-3 hours it cools down and runs ok.
I can repeat problem and here is some of the things I tried. Used a multi meter that has an amp clamp and put it around the spark plug wire. Running it reads 27 hz, when it's hot and cranking it reads 20 to 27 hz but won't run also the tach is showing rpm. Also sprayed a little starting fluid and the bike ran for the few seconds but would not run on it's own. I'm assuming spark is ok at this point.
Removed air cleaner, cleaned and inspected IAC, it moves with switching ign. on and off both cold(when bike starts ok) and hot when problem occurs. Looking in intake and revving throttle I can see fuel vapor. While trying it during no start I don't see fuel but the engine is not turning over as fast as it is during normal revving. I'm assuming no fuel.
So, leaning toward fuel side for problem. Could injectors not be working electrically and not throw a code? Could injectors or any part of fuel system not flow fuel when hot? How can I test injectors pulse width, or duty cycle electrics both when it's running and when the problem happens? How can I check injectors mechanically of they are working? Looking into getting fuel pressure test gage but it does make noise whether hot or cold, don't think that's an issue. Is there anyway of checking ECM for ignition/injector signals that I can compare when running ok and when it fails hot?
Any suggestions, comments greatly appreciated and I hope I didn't put you to sleep after rereading this long winded story.
Thanks in advance
sledbum

 

Replace your head temp sensor

 

I have read it twice but I do not see were you can say you hear fuel pump run for 3 seconds when you key on? If not there is a built in 3 second timer in the fuel pump relay that automatic runs fuel pump for the 55 lb per sq injector pressure needed for idle or wot. After a few cranks the crank position sensor on the front left down at the oil filter takes over. Fuel pump runs all the time while running and any excess goes by way of relief valve in tank. There is a bank angle sensor in the signal light or signal/light that cuts fuel if bike is laid over. Also if CPS which is sensitive to heat or the connection on the ecm goes there will be no fuel. My guess is if you do not get the 3 second run at key on it's the fuel pump relay and if you get that it's the CPS. If the CPS, get one and just jump it out rather then run wire till you determine that is what it is. You can check resistance or it's low ac voltage but sometimes when its affected by heat its hard to catch it hot and not working. It's not the IAC since it will run without that if you crank the throttle open a little. That is only a controlled air flow for idle air. Doubt it's the injectors. Just caught fuel pump comes on. So I think CPS. I am not sure how this low voltage magnetic impulse gets screw up other then heat. And I think the reason it does not throw a code is the cranking speed. My guess is there would need to be two of them for a cranking speed code throw ability since I think it also serves as an RPM count for the ECM .

 

Fuel pump (lack of) could be a definite clue.

How about removing the spark plug, grounding, cranking the engine and checking for spark. No spark then I'd suspect the crank sensor.

 

fuel pump runs for a few seconds then stops key on engine off. when hot and cold timing lite will lite although engine won't run hot. spark could be ok. does cps drive the ignition and injectors?
sprayed gas intake and runs till stop spraying. fuel could be problem. installed fuel gage 56 psi then falls off right away basically as soon as pump stops won't repump when pressure drops. could not check fuel pressure running. shouldn't pump kick back in when pressure drops down low?
thanks
s

 

The crank sensor is the big dog wrt ignition timing/fuel injection - the engine will not start with a defective crank sensor. How else does the ECM know when to gate the injectors and ignition coils? Through the inducted pulse provided by the crank sensor the ECM knows what stroke of the cycle is occurring.

 

Sounds like CPS is not taking over from the 3 second timer in the fuel pump relay and not running the fuel pump.