Turns out that these "non-serviceable" EFI tank fittings may just be repairable after all...

I have to start this with a big thanks to 1550VT for the post on repairing fuel fitting leaks. I tried the following procedure figuring I had nothing to lose as I could still fall back on his idea.

I finally got my '98 FLHTCUI out of winter storage yesterday and discovered that both fittings at the tank were leaking badly. After checking with the Brain Trust here, I thought I'd try the fix as posted by 1550VT.

I cut the hose off at the front fitting and put the fitting in the vise to start cutting & drilling it out. Got to thinking that anything that goes together HAS to come apart somehow so I took the thickest blade screwdriver I own, put it between the tank nut and the swivel fitting and gave it a good whack with the swing press. To my surprise, it popped apart. The retainer clip inside looked OK , as did the swivel fitting. There was only one o-ring in the tank nut so I pulled it out with a pick. Dug around in my o-ring collection and found one that's 3/8" OD, 1/2" ID and 1/16" thick. BTW, the old ring was about .046 -.048" thick as opposed to .625" for the replacement and the new o-ring was out of a Viton assortment from Harbor Freight. I lightly oiled the swivel fitting and popped it back into the tank nut. Nice, snug fit and it turned ok in there.

I then cut off the outer part of the swivel fitting that goes over the hose, about 1/2" back from the end where the hose goes in, using a cutoff wheel and being careful not to cut through the inner fitting tube that the hose fits over. After flushing the fitting to make sure there was no debris, I put it back in the tank and reattached the rubber fuel line with an efi hose clamp. There was just enough hose there to get a good connection without too much stress or rubbing on the hose - a little close to the horn bracket but acceptable.

Time for the rear fitting. Took the front fitting back off for easier access. Rather than cutting the hose, I thought I'd try the repair on the bike. Put a 6" piece of 2x4 against the rear cylinder fins, inserted the screwdriver and gave it a couple whacks - not too hard though as I don't feel like replacing base gaskets.... It wouldn't come apart all the way so I put a vise grip on the tank nut and one on the swivel fitting and with a little pulling and twisting, off it came, none the worse for wear. I installed a new o-ring, flushed it, lubed it, popped it back together and reinstalled the assembly.

Put fuel back in, held my breath and fired it up. NO LEAKS!!!!

Took the bike out for a ride and still no leaks. Seems to be handling the fuel pressure just fine. I honestly have no idea how long it will last but will keep you posted if any issues arise. The attached photo should make things a bit clearer.

I'm also wondering if a small bearing separator might do the trick here rather than the hammer & screwdriver method.

 

A few trips and about 550 miles later and still no leaks. Wiggled and twisted the fittings around with the bike running and not a drop.

 

Where there is a will....there is a way!

You took a slightly different approach than I did and I'm not beating on your procedure. If it works for you....that's great. However....as you indicated and got a bit nervous about, this particular fix will not last forever and sooner or later those O-rings will leak again. I hope they never do. I simply decided that I would rid myself of the cursed O-rings....and that's why I took the route of just gutting the nuts and installing NPT fittings.

I will admit that it's a bit aggravating to do that, but it's a "final fix". Even the expensive Goodridge lines have metric 0-rings in them and they would be very hard to find out there on the side of the road. They have to be the EXACT size. I have had one here that cut deeply into the horn bracket due to rubbing....so watch how you run those.

Messages to me concerning the fuel line fix have been picking up lately and I offer to build the tank nuts for anybody that will send me their old lines. $20 plus postage both ways for two gutted, drilled and tapped nuts and I'll send your old lines back for the final build. There are several ways that I have not pictured as to how you can put AN/JIC fittings on the hose-ends to make a professional and permanent job of it. My initial information concerned being able to get your bike back on the road no matter where it started leaking.

Anyone can PM me for further information.

 

My 96 RK had some weeping fuel lines and I replaced the O-rings and the check valves only to have it spew forth a lot of fuel when I fired it up. It does appear that the fuel is coming from the coupling rather than down from the tank. If I am understanding this post correctly I can make a small press with the welder and angle iron to press the 2 pieces apart and replace the internal O-rings, I suppose I could make a jig to help press them back together again also.
I need to do something to get the leak stopped until I can get some new fuel lines.
Thanks for the help.

 

Crash....I'm not sure if I understand where your leak is based on what you said above, but I assume.....it's from between where the line plugs into the nut....where it always is. You are NEVER going to solve that by changing the o-ring on the end of the nut, or changing the check valve....it's the INTERAL o-ring within the fitting that you can't see that's leaking. Pigpipes indicates that he was able to separate this connection and install new rings within the fitting and his accomplishment is to be applauded. I simply cut them off and dig-out the spear...then drill-n-tap to accept a 1/8th. NPT fitting and plumb back to the fuel line by removing the crimped on spear. You do not have to remove the hose from the intake runner to do this.

You would have to know how these things go together when you purchase them new. They come in two parts. The buyer/installer has to insert the "spear" up into the nut. It's one of the dumbest, idiotic and MOCO ways of attachment and it was designed for the sole reason that you have to go back all the time and purchase new hoses, or pay the dealer to install them. It's called another "Harley Tax". They can be solidly attached to the tank and yet have plenty of slack to allow for vibration. I've done it too many times not to know.

You can try what pigpipes did above, go back to the sticky and see what I designed.....or purchase some Goodridge HDFL005 lines off e-bay for close to $200. My current MM EFI ride has Goodridge lines on it, but I always carry a spare set of hoses and my fittings to make repairs. If you don't have real good eyes, can't work in confined spaces, aren't good with snap-ring pliers (and have plenty of spare snap-rings).....take it to the dealer to have new hoses installed and then be ready for another leak...sooner-or-later.

Best and cheapest bet.......do what I suggest in the sticky, or mail me your lines and for a nominal fee (my time is valuable to me)....I'll make you a set that can't leak.

IF ANYBODY HAS ANY OF THESE LEAKING LINES LAYING AROUND....I WILL PAY THE POSTAGE AND GIVE YOU $5 EACH. I'll make-up some spares and have some available for those of you in need....which is about anybody that has a ride with the original MM EFI dual hoses on it.

 

1550vt- Thanks for the info. I am looking at a set of Goodridge lines now as they seem to be the less expensive route for new. I may do that and send you my old pair and have a spare set on hand.

 

Though I have never heard of any problems.....ANYTHING that has an o-ring in it can be problematic and the Goodridge lines use metric o-rings. Somewhere around here I have a listing for conversion o-rings that will work with the Goodridge hoses. I have a little pill-bottle in my tool kit that has extra o-rings and circlips. The circlips that hold the banjo's on the nipples are more easily lost than gun springs. The same clips that hold the stock hose banjo's on the fuel rail work with the Goodridge lines....so SAVE those. The top (small) o-ring that is used on the Harley lines on the nipples in the fuel rail will work as substitites for the small o-ring in the Goodridge line and the end of the Goodridge tank nut. (Handy stuff to know.)

The thing I don't like about any set of Goodridge lines I have installed is they are not exactly assembled in the proper orientation that allows a direct installation into the tank....they have to be twisted a bit and this can't be good for the o-rings. You have to be careful or you will surely cross-thread a nut. BUT....I've not had any fail, so maybe one should not worry about it.

I have the top-end off my 98 now for a re-build and I noticed the return line (Goodridge) is kinked but it's not causing any issues. The return line is so short that the radius in the turn is very tight. I wish they would have built those just a tad longer.

Ain't life a bitch.....nothing is simple anymore!

 

Thanks that's some good information to know, I may still make a press to take one of these apart for the why not of it. Just to see what there is not to see.

 

Once you pull one apart, you'll discover what the problem is. I think this fitting design is European in nature, but I'm not sure. I've never seen anything like it on anything mechanical but the Harley MM EFI system. I understand the reasoning behind it....to allow flexibility of the hose and facilitate tank removal without having to disconnect the fuel lines on the intake runner. There was and is a much simpler way to do that, but like always....Harley chose the most complicated and trouble prone method. I'm convinced that even if you are able to remove the spear and change the o-ring, it's just a problem that will reoccur at the most inappropriate time....like out in the middle of Monument Valley or crossing Death Valley. Nothing could be more discerning than riding across a desert in 100-degree temperatures with fuel dripping down on your hot motor.

 

I found my notes on the Goodridge fuel line components:

The clip that holds the hoses on the nipples: HD11150 will work
Small o-ring: HD11246 will work
Large o-ring: 15.8mm x 2mm or a 5/8ths. will work.

I keep a set of these in my tool kit as well as a small pair of circlip pliers.