I posted about this in another section, but didn't get any responses, so I thought I might try here. My 2007 Street Bob will not start. Doesn't try to turn over, no clicking what so ever. When I turn on the ignition, I have head light, tail light, neutral light and oil light. I don't have an odometer readout at all, and the blinkers do not work. The fuel does come on if the switch is set to the run position. Here is all the TS I've done so far:

- Checked battery, nearly 12V with ignition on
- Battery in FOB, full 3V tested on volt meter
- Tested continuity of all fuses with volt meter and they all check out
- Ran direct power to starter for a second and it turns over
- checked for 12V coming in and going out of ignition
- checked starter switch for power, it's good
- replaced starter relay and system relay for good measure

A few details: I have led turn signals front and rear, and a badlands load equalizer wired in. It has all worked for months without issue. I relocated the ignition to the top of the tank like many others here, and it has worked for months without issue. When I pulled the tank dash to check the ignition, I double checked everything was plugged in.

The events leading up to this point involve me installing saddle bags. I had the bike on and off the lift for about a week with that project. I didn't have the FOB close to the bike the whole time, and I tripped the alarm a coupe of times. I'm assuming I would have a red key if there was an alarm issue, but with no power to the odometer it's hard to say at this point.

My thoughts: TSSM, or TSM/HFSM to be more specific. I have the buttonless FOB, which makes it the HFSM I believe. I pulled the TSM and visually inspected it. I can't see anything obviously wrong with it, but I have no idea how to test it. Could I have done something to the tip sensor? Seems strange to have some working electrical, but no odometer or blinkers with all the fuses testing good.

Any advice on what to check next is welcome. I don't have a Harley dealership in my town, but there are a few local shops that work on HD.

 

Just because it reads 12V, doesn't mean the battery is good.

It *must* be 12.8V or better just sitting by itself with nothing hooked to it.

If you're not getting any LCD odometer readings, the battery just isn't cutting it.

Jump your bike from your car or truck without actually starting the car or truck, just connect the cables to the bike battery and see if anything is different.

 

To add a little more detail. After a good 24 hour low amp controlled charge and the battery has set about 24 hours voltage should be about 12.8 volts.
12.8 = full charged
12.6 = 75%
12.3 = 50%
12.0 =25%

Always check both the terminals at the battery lead and also at the terminal of the wire. That helps to verify connection.
With a DC volt meter (that has a feature to lock high and low reading is best) hooked across the battery terminals and reading 12.8 or so, crank motor and while its cranking it should not drop below about 9.6 volts and as soon as it starts and throttled up to 2000 rpm or so should read around 14.8 volts. The 2000 rpm is the bench mark standard. The crank check shows a rough check of the reserve amperage capacity of the battery while cranking with a 150-200 amp load on it. The 14.8 shows a good alternator and if you leave it on a while as the regulatory will drop the voltage a little showing itself working. However, with the lights and stuff always on it will never drop back much.
When a battery wears out a good charge will show fairly good voltage, but the battery can still have very low amperage capacity which will show in the crude crank test above, but it really should be checked after a good charge by removing it from bike and getting a free check at a place like AutoZone that has a fancy load meter check that gives you a print out of the battery health. Battery MUST BE CHARGED to check it. Be sure they set their meter to correct cold cranking amperage stated on the battery. Never charge the AGM absorbed glass mat battery with a regular car battery charger unless it is a newer one that says safe with this type of battery. Also by taking battery out you now know you have good connections. Vibration tends to loosen the connections or a little corrosion will prevent charging or cause starting problems. Using the maintenance charger can get more years from a battery but be careful here. You do not want the last start 5 miles from home. If it still grunts when you first hit starter or kicks back, replace it. After a few years, charge and pull battery and have it checked for cold cranking amperage ever spring. Even then, if it grunts most ever start, I would replace it. If they have one, Wal-Mart's AGM absorbed glass mat battery is just as good as any one's for half the money. Do not jump, push start or run bike with a half dead battery except in an emergency. It will kill alternator stator or the voltage regulator or both. Probably a $500 repair.

 

Thanks for the replies. I've been on vacation for a week and haven't had time to respond.

I already replaced the battery for good measure, and unfortunately it did not help, no change what so ever. Still no odometer, and still doesn't even try to turn over one little bit.

I'm eyeballing some TSM modules on eBay, and I plan on trying to remove the HFSM all together if possible. I read on another thread about a procedure where you can remove the HFSM and replace it with a TSM. I'll have to reprogram the ECM with a series of on and off ignition steps with a battery tender hooked up so it doesn't die.

In the meantime does anyone else have suggestions?

 

check the small 12 volt lead to the starter solenoid to see if it energizes when you hit the start button.

 

My guess since you do not have a speedometer read is the 15 amp battery fuse is blown. I do not have a sporty service manual. There is two other power sources coming to speedometer. accessories and instrument. Getting info from a 2008 Dyna electrical diagnostic. You need to get speedometer working before messing with others. Did you charge new battery?

 

SIDECAR BOB I had a friend check this for me, and he said it was good.

RIPSAW I checked all the fuses at the fuse panel for continuity, and they all checked out. I first inspected each fuse, then used a volt meter and checked for continuity using the small holes on the top of the fuse while installed in the bike. I had my friend who help check my ignition and switches double check my work on the fuses. Battery was pre-charged. I put the volt meter on it while installed on the bike with the ignition on and it reads 12.8V. It's a brand new battery from Batteries Plus.

 

You need a schematic to check if you are getting power at the speedometer. If no, it must be the something to do with it disabled by the alarm system or maybe the ignition switch if the fuses are good. However you need the schematic to know what you are checking.