I purchased a 1983 ironhead xlh1000. most of the wires where not connected to anything and all the connectors where falling apart so im doing my best to rewire everything with all new wires, connectors, and circuit breakers. this is what i have come up with so far using my service manual and wiring schematics i did my best to make it bold and clear, if it is still hard to read i could probably scan it in tonight and get a better quality. as you can see from the schematic i drew i am not planning on having any accessories besides head light and tail light (the taillight is not on the diagram yet, id like to get all this sorted out and working before i add that in) i am also not using regular switch housings i am using 1 rocker switch for the run/kill and one momentary switch for a start. (i included a picture of the two along with the prongs because im not 100% sure of which is the ground and which is the load. and where to wire the led light?)
one more thing! i was looking at the schematic in the manual and here is one thing, actually two thing tripping me up alittle bit. one is the vaccum switch, where is that located? somewhere near the starter maybe?? also what in the world is the other thing coming from the ecu with three wires?? it looks like something to do with ignition but i am not sure
... i am using 1 rocker switch for the run/kill and one momentary switch for a start. (i included a picture of the two along with the prongs because im not 100% sure of which is the ground and which is the load. and where to wire the led light?) ...
Originally Posted by Erika01085
... the vaccum switch, where is that located? ... what in the world is the other thing coming from the ecu with three wires?? it looks like something to do with ignition but i am not sure ...
I followed your wire diagram along with the factory diagram and yours looks pretty good. The vacuum switch VOES] is installed above the carb. See page 7-18 of the Factory Service Manual [FSM] 99484-85, which i believe that you have. [If not let us know].
If you do not yet have the Factory Parts Catalog [FPC] 99451-85A you should get one. It is invaluable.
The part that is "south" of the electronic module is the Ignition Module Assembly 32592-78. It is behind the ~3" diameter round timer cover on the right side of the engine, in the gearcase cover [usually referred to as the cam cover]. See page 38 of the FPC. If the timer cover has never been removed it is held on by pop rivits, otherwise bolts.
Please ask for help before ever removing the gearcase cover.
For the switch labelled Earth, Supply, Load I expect that the 3 terminals are in the same pattern in the photo as they are on the label, top left, bottom left, right. Earth == ground, Supply == 12 volts in, Load == 12 volts out.
I followed your wire diagram along with the factory diagram and yours looks pretty good. The vacuum switch VOES] is installed above the carb. See page 7-18 of the Factory Service Manual [FSM] 99484-85, which i believe that you have. [If not let us know].
If you do not yet have the Factory Parts Catalog [FPC] 99451-85A you should get one. It is invaluable.
The part that is "south" of the electronic module is the Ignition Module Assembly 32592-78. It is behind the ~3" diameter round timer cover on the right side of the engine, in the gearcase cover [usually referred to as the cam cover]. See page 38 of the FPC. If the timer cover has never been removed it is held on by pop rivits, otherwise bolts.
Please ask for help before ever removing the gearcase cover.
For the switch labelled Earth, Supply, Load I expect that the 3 terminals are in the same pattern in the photo as they are on the label, top left, bottom left, right. Earth == ground, Supply == 12 volts in, Load == 12 volts out.
thanks for the quick response Mick, i do have the factory service manual, i will have to get a copy of the parts catalog. thank you for explaining everything and answering all my questions. i am looking for the VOES now on my bike and i do not see one, it also looks like the vacuum port on the carb has been capped. ill attach a few pictures. if i don't have one it looks like jp cycles carry's them for 45$ it should be no problem to wire up the lead from the ecm is still there with the right connector just nothing connected to it.
Check the carb photos on page 4-4 of the FSM. Your carb is figure 4-4. Compare it to figure 4-5. In 4-5 the port has a rubber cap which is missing in 4-4.
In FPC page 27, that port is identified as the "evaporative port".
Note item #5 in figure 4-5. That is where the vacuum port for the VOES. It is missing from 4-4, and is also missing from your photo of your carb.
I suppose that evap port was used for VOES in 1983. Just interesting things. I had never thought much about that port before.
The big brass screw in your 2nd and 3rd photos Looks like an aftermarket part to replace the pilot screw - it makes making adjustments more convenient. In that carb the pilot screw hole was capped at the factory so riders would not fiddle with it. Probably emissions related restriction mandated by government. "Everybody" back then removed that cap; some also replaced the original screw with that one with the knurled top, like you have.
Check the carb photos on page 4-4 of the FSM. Your carb is figure 4-4. Compare it to figure 4-5. In 4-5 the port has a rubber cap which is missing in 4-4.
In FPC page 27, that port is identified as the "evaporative port".
Note item #5 in figure 4-5. That is where the vacuum port for the VOES. It is missing from 4-4, and is also missing from your photo of your carb.
I suppose that evap port was used for VOES in 1983. Just interesting things. I had never thought much about that port before.
The big brass screw in your 2nd and 3rd photos Looks like an aftermarket part to replace the pilot screw - it makes making adjustments more convenient. In that carb the pilot screw hole was capped at the factory so riders would not fiddle with it. Probably emissions related restriction mandated by government. "Everybody" back then removed that cap; some also replaced the original screw with that one with the knurled top, like you have.
yes it is an aftermarket mixture screw, the one that was in there was not only stripped but was also missing the spring, o-ring, and washer or the "packing" as they called it on the website. as far as the pictures of the carburetor in the FSM i went to section 7 to see the v.o.e.s better and on page 7-18 image 7-14 it labels the vacuum hose and it seems to be coming from the same port, are they used differently for each year? like one year for evao and one year for voes? my ecu has the connector for a voes to be connected so i would think it would be good to install one. i know it is the connector because it is the violet wire labeled in the diagram in the FSM and looking at the switches online it is the same connector it looks like i could just wire one right up no problem. is there a reason someone would eliminate a voes system it seems like it is kind of important, could that also be why that when i fiest tried to start it when i picked it up it would back fire? i could get it to idle for about 45 seconds to a minute before the rpms would shoot through the roof, it was actually scary it sounded like it was at WOT but i contributed that to the lack of "packing" in the mixture screw. i have yet to bolt the carb back on and try out the new mixture screw, i would like to get all of my wires finished first (:
Last edited by Erika01085; 01-03-2017 at 10:00 PM.
OK, interesting, I never looked closely enough at that diagram 7-14, never needed to, but yes, the vacuum line does come off of the evap port. In subsequent years, right thru Evo years, the evap port is capped or absent and the vacuum hose comes off the VOES port, which goes vertically thru the flange part of the carburetor figure 4-5.
Yes, it is a good idea to run a VOES. It is not essential, but will result in some fuel saving and power increase. It absence would not be the primary cause of starting or running problems.
Erratic idle is often caused by intake air leaks - poor seal usually between the manifold and the cylinder head but also between the carb and the manifold.
yes and no. yes in the way that i sat out there and ran through the wires, organized everything and slipped some wire loom over most of it to clean it up. now i just have to find a few minutes this weekend to sit out there and make all my connections now that i know what goes where, il post up the final result when its all done
01-02-2017, 08:12 AM
ironhead wiring
