Buying My First Ironhead
#1
10-12-2017, 09:46 PM
Buying My First Ironhead
Im looking to buy my second bike and my first ironhead. i narrowed it down to 1977-1979, im been reading alot about them for weeks now and just trying to learn more about these 3 years. I want to know the pros and cons and the biggest problems for these three years, and the little things to look out for when buying an ironhead. I just know the basics about them, check to see if the case is cracked, see if the chain is too tight or loose, check all the fluids in the bike, and see how bad the tank is rusted. I made a check list with more and cant think of anymore.
#2
10-13-2017, 08:42 AM
Seasoned HDF Member
The first thing to do is try to buy as unmolested a bike as you can. The closer to stock the better. No fancy mods, no forward controls, no hardtail, no chopper, no crazy looking blued out pipes. Ironheads are really plentiful where I live and the prices are about $2,000 to $3,000 with a few crazies going above and below that. Be patient and get the best deal/bike you can. Stock bikes are also worth more money. And if you see "basket case" in the ad, run.
Lots of people will tell you that 1979 is a one off year and avoid it like the plague because you can't get parts for it. I know the exhaust, rear swingarm, and rear master cylinder are different. Other than that, I think it's just an ironhead.
If I had my heart set on an ironhead, I would get a late model from the 80s. Iron Mick will be here to give you more and much better information than I can on sportys.
You can get an EVO sporty around here for about the same money as an ironhead. You'll probably ride it much more than you'll work on it. Not so much with a dinosaur.
carl
Lots of people will tell you that 1979 is a one off year and avoid it like the plague because you can't get parts for it. I know the exhaust, rear swingarm, and rear master cylinder are different. Other than that, I think it's just an ironhead.
If I had my heart set on an ironhead, I would get a late model from the 80s. Iron Mick will be here to give you more and much better information than I can on sportys.
You can get an EVO sporty around here for about the same money as an ironhead. You'll probably ride it much more than you'll work on it. Not so much with a dinosaur.
carl
The following users liked this post:
Kmo13 (10-13-2017)
#3
10-13-2017, 11:55 AM
Here's an older post from the other IronHead forum ...
They are all old bikes and most have been through the wringer.
I look for a bike that is stock not modified. Except for bars (I hate those buck horn bars)
Lots of guys think they are "fixing up" a Sporty by modifying it, I have a different word for it (rhymes with butcher) (oooops!).
Other than that the next is rust, fork condition, wheels straight, pointing the same direction?
Then before going any farther I want to see the papers, it is best when frame numbers match the ones on paper.
Next is the little stuff, will it start, do the tires hold air, what does the chain look like, is it loose or tight, cables good, does it have the dreaded drag pipes, does the owner have all the original parts he took off it?
Is the tank rusty? I don't like alternator years. I don't like SU carbs S&S B carbs or anything big.
Disc front brakes are fabulous, disc rear not so important. I like left side shift and electric start.
Then I talk price and don't be afraid to walk away, do not let the seller control the show it's your money and there are lots of bikes to look at.
Don't buy a project if you plan on riding this year (maybe next).
Don't spend all your money, you need a emergency fund incase it ***** the trans on your first ride.
Don't get caught up in the upgrade/chrome disease thing.
Ride it, it will speak to you about it's needs. Attend to it's needs before making it shiny. Do not let it sit and idle to "warm up", you will find out how much a top end costs.
Do not ride it if it is not happy, fix it then you can ride it.
Do not ride it unless you KNOW how much oil is in the primary/trans (trans is the most expensive part of an Ironhead).
If you are going to work on it buy a Genuine maunal and parts catalog.
Do not take it apart unless you have the parts you know you will need to reassemble it IN HAND (or you will surely miss riding days).
Buy a full gasket kit and replace the gaskets you use as needed.
Buy a case of oil and 4 oil filters (so you don't have an excuse for not changing the oil)
Get extra points (if equipped) and plugs, replace as needed (so you always have extras on hand). 5 min to get one off the shelf, could be hours or days even weeks to find one otherwise.
Avoid cheap Taiwan replacement parts.
Find a trustworthy mentor, discover what his vices are and keep him well supplied, follow his direction.
Don't listen to your friends whose bikes are not faster than yours and who do not own antique American Iron, it is your bike and exists to make you happy not someone else.
Do not let your friends ride your bike, a real friend will not ask. Offer it with the knowledge that you might never ride it again.
Most of all "Ride it like you stole it!"
I look for a bike that is stock not modified. Except for bars (I hate those buck horn bars)
Lots of guys think they are "fixing up" a Sporty by modifying it, I have a different word for it (rhymes with butcher) (oooops!).
Other than that the next is rust, fork condition, wheels straight, pointing the same direction?
Then before going any farther I want to see the papers, it is best when frame numbers match the ones on paper.
Next is the little stuff, will it start, do the tires hold air, what does the chain look like, is it loose or tight, cables good, does it have the dreaded drag pipes, does the owner have all the original parts he took off it?
Is the tank rusty? I don't like alternator years. I don't like SU carbs S&S B carbs or anything big.
Disc front brakes are fabulous, disc rear not so important. I like left side shift and electric start.
Then I talk price and don't be afraid to walk away, do not let the seller control the show it's your money and there are lots of bikes to look at.
Don't buy a project if you plan on riding this year (maybe next).
Don't spend all your money, you need a emergency fund incase it ***** the trans on your first ride.
Don't get caught up in the upgrade/chrome disease thing.
Ride it, it will speak to you about it's needs. Attend to it's needs before making it shiny. Do not let it sit and idle to "warm up", you will find out how much a top end costs.
Do not ride it if it is not happy, fix it then you can ride it.
Do not ride it unless you KNOW how much oil is in the primary/trans (trans is the most expensive part of an Ironhead).
If you are going to work on it buy a Genuine maunal and parts catalog.
Do not take it apart unless you have the parts you know you will need to reassemble it IN HAND (or you will surely miss riding days).
Buy a full gasket kit and replace the gaskets you use as needed.
Buy a case of oil and 4 oil filters (so you don't have an excuse for not changing the oil)
Get extra points (if equipped) and plugs, replace as needed (so you always have extras on hand). 5 min to get one off the shelf, could be hours or days even weeks to find one otherwise.
Avoid cheap Taiwan replacement parts.
Find a trustworthy mentor, discover what his vices are and keep him well supplied, follow his direction.
Don't listen to your friends whose bikes are not faster than yours and who do not own antique American Iron, it is your bike and exists to make you happy not someone else.
Do not let your friends ride your bike, a real friend will not ask. Offer it with the knowledge that you might never ride it again.
Most of all "Ride it like you stole it!"
The following users liked this post:
Kmo13 (10-13-2017)
#5
10-14-2017, 07:35 AM
#6
10-16-2017, 07:19 AM
Seasoned HDF Member
Lot's of good advice. They're all old at this point...spend the time looking for something that was very well cared for. For me personally, I like '78 and older. '79 they changed the frame and I never warmed up to the look.
Good ones are getting harder to find and the ones that are very close to OEM and in good shape bring a higher price tag....but, IMHO, is well worth it.
Good ones are getting harder to find and the ones that are very close to OEM and in good shape bring a higher price tag....but, IMHO, is well worth it.
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