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Front cylinder noise in Ironhead

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  #11  
Old 02-07-2018, 10:55 AM
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Baird, the bike is all stock except for the drag pipes, it has 14k on the odometer and I have looked into the plug holes and can see some clean spots on the piston crowns, but that is not to say someone has not been in there before. I could see it having a spark knock under load, but it will do it above approximately 2000 rpm just sitting on the kickstand. I think next I will see if I can borrow a timing light from Auto Zone (since mine is in AZ) and check the timing, maybe it is too advanced. I was thinking to pull of the vacuum line off the carb for the VOES and see if that makes a difference.
 
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Old 02-08-2018, 08:01 AM
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Well last night I took it out for a quick ride ride, I let it warm up and it was making the noise as usual, then I pulled off the vacuum hose of the carb that goes to the VOES and put a cap over the nipple on the carb. It stopped 85% of the noise, so it looks like it is a timing problem after all. I wonder if it is way out of time, or it is in the OE ignition box, I checked to VOES and it works, I am contemplating replacing the whole ignition with one of the Ultima kits for $160.00, but first I want to put the timing light on it and see where the mark is and how far off it is if at all.
 
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Old 02-08-2018, 06:20 PM
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Here is the Ultima kit from the buyer, jirehcycles, from whom I have purchased 4 or 5 of these kits - two for myself and a few for IronHead friends. Never a problem with any of these transactions or with the kits. Simple install and go.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Ultima-Sing...JaJb2U&vxp=mtr

The instructions are good but not clearly written. In particular, always set the VOES switch to OFF regardless of whether or not you are installing a VOES switch. Read the instructions very carefully if you wish to understand the why of this.

Occasionally you hear a story about the Ultima ignition coil being unreliable. It is this story that is unreliable I believe that what may have happened is that several years ago when these kits first came out there was a problem with some of the coils. I have never heard directly from anyone over a period of close to ten years who had a coil problem, only a few times guys posted that someone else had a problem. You do know how reliable that kind of information is in these days of the internet

I personally highly recommend this kit and this seller.
 
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  #14  
Old 02-09-2018, 08:41 AM
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Thanks Mick, I have heard great things about that kit as well as Jireh Cycles. I think that is the route to go. I am still interested to see where the timing is set, the factory ignition box might be stuck in the second ignition map causing too much advance.
 
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Old 02-12-2018, 09:42 AM
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I put the order in with Jireh Cycles on Friday, can't wait to get it installed, thanks Mick.
 
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Old 02-21-2018, 04:49 PM
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Well I installed the Ultima Ignition and it works great, fires up as soon as you touch the button, no more noise now. I did notice the carb overflow tube is pissing when I stop sometimes, just bought the rebuild kit for it (Keihin Butterfly), also replaced all of the rubber oil lines, douched out the oil tank, new Motorcraft FL400 oil filter and Spectro SAE60 too. Also new Continental tires, riser bushings, front and rear pads, primary cover gasket with new oil, cleaned and repacked the wheel bearing and replaced the grease seals too.
 
  #17  
Old 02-21-2018, 06:22 PM
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Congrats on the Ultima install!

The carb overflowing could be just the float level needing to be reset. You may not need the kit at all. The procedure to adjust the level is well explained and illustrated in the FSM 99484-85. Adjust the float first and save the kit if needed for later.

With the carb rebuild - do not discard the old, used parts right away as some of them may be better than the new parts in the kit.
 
  #18  
Old 02-21-2018, 08:29 PM
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Originally Posted by dirtyharryfxrt

I was listening to it with the stethoscope I bought, the noisiest spot was the front cylinder exhaust tappet block. So I took it apart and it as well as the lifter look fine, so I will put it back together and run it again. I checked the adjustment on all of the valves and they are right on too. I think I will check the timing as well, I bought a timing hole clear plug. Here is a picture of the bike, by the way I am up for the "renter of the year" award with the bike in the living room.


Man it really is a good looker. nice find and sounds like it was pretty easy to get back on the road.

The best thing i did to my 80 ironhead was install that ultima ignition, runs great

Mick, that part you linked says kick only but it is the same model number I have, mine is electric. The reason im asking is because i am thinking of buying another one for my shovelhead, which is kick/electric combo. What do you think?

And yes these are noisy engines, if a modern engine made some of the noises my ironhead makes it would be time to shut it down on the side of the road and call a ride before it blew up, but dam thing just keeps going!
 
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Old 02-21-2018, 10:32 PM
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I did not notice that that auction said for "Models with Kick Start Only" and that it is "Programmed from Ultima to ZERO DEAD REVS".

It will work also with electric start models.

Previous to about Oct 2012 all of the Ultima ignitions were this way. Subsequent to that date all models were programmed with three dead revs.

Zero dead revs means that the ignition fires the plugs on the first rotation of the engine so that kick starting is easier.

The three dead revs means that the ignition does not fire the plugs until the 4th rev. This is said to be better for the starter motor - that zero revs may cause some difficulty for the starter motor.

I used only the zero dead revs models on my 1978 XLH; two friends used the same model on a 1970 XLH and a 1974 XLH. None of us had any problem. Until 2012 everyone used the zero model with electric start bikes. I have never seen a post about this possible problem on either of the IronHead forums that I have worked every day for 10/15 years.
 

Last edited by IronMick; 02-21-2018 at 10:33 PM.
  #20  
Old 02-22-2018, 07:46 AM
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Originally Posted by IronMick
I did not notice that that auction said for "Models with Kick Start Only" and that it is "Programmed from Ultima to ZERO DEAD REVS".

It will work also with electric start models.

Previous to about Oct 2012 all of the Ultima ignitions were this way. Subsequent to that date all models were programmed with three dead revs.

Zero dead revs means that the ignition fires the plugs on the first rotation of the engine so that kick starting is easier.

The three dead revs means that the ignition does not fire the plugs until the 4th rev. This is said to be better for the starter motor - that zero revs may cause some difficulty for the starter motor.

I used only the zero dead revs models on my 1978 XLH; two friends used the same model on a 1970 XLH and a 1974 XLH. None of us had any problem. Until 2012 everyone used the zero model with electric start bikes. I have never seen a post about this possible problem on either of the IronHead forums that I have worked every day for 10/15 years.
Thats kind of what i thought, thanks

Its just easier on the starter to have it at 3 dead revs but I dont see it hurting anything if it is set at zero

For sure easier to kick start with zero revs

thanks again
 


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