84 Sportster XLX 1000 Ignition Problem
#21
04-09-2022, 09:58 PM
Stellar HDF Member
There is a SIMPLE FIX. Dynatek makes a Dyna S ignition in both single fire & dual fire. So take yer pick. You will need to get a Centrifugal Advance Unit (pre-electronic) for it to work properly. Dual fire is what all Harley's used back when it was new. Ultima Electronic Ignition . . . HELL NO. WHEN it craps out on ya, it will be when you are the furthest from home. Remember the KISS principle? Keep It Simple Stupid? The Dyna S dual fire IS the simplest cost effective update you can do. Using the advance unit (ALL preset timing adjustments are WRONG. It will run on them but performance will not be GREAT unless ya reprogram it,) you have the exact timing advance that came from the Factory.
#22
03-21-2024, 12:14 AM
Stage I
Join Date: Mar 2024
Location: Los osos
Posts: 1
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Rotor
I'm fixing up a 1984 Sportster XLX 1000. This was the "last of the iron heads" sportster but it has an ignition system with the computerized control module.
Here's what's going on.... I got the bike from a friend. It had sat in his garage for about 8 years without being used. I got a new battery, rebuilt the carb, cleaned the tank but couldn't get it to start. I started going through the troubleshooting process in the FSM. The coil was bad so I got a new one. That got the bike to start although it was very hard to start. The starting woes have continued though....
Right now, it will crank and crank and not start. I am continually checking for spark and it is intermittent. I have one of those inline spark plug test lights. It will go from having regular spark to having spark on the just the first few cranks to having no spark in no particular order. It's like there is something going on that is randomly disabling the ignition. It'll crank and crank, then I'll mess around with some stuff and it'll fire right up on first touch of the switch. It'll idle but when I try to rev it a bit, it'll die and won't start back up.
There is no rhyme or reason as to when it will have spark and when it won't.
I've gone through the troubleshooting steps again and done the following....
1. Checked condition of plugs and wires - all look good
2. Test for spark - this is the test that comes back with varied results
3. Check battery voltage while cranking - got 11.75v
4. Check ignition module ground - removed, cleaned and reinstalled ground wire
5. Check voltage to coil - was within half a volt of reading at battery
6. Check voltage across coil - was within half a volt of reading at battery
7. Check voltage from computerized control module - got 5.05v which is what it's supposed to be
8. Check voltage from computerized control module while plugged in - got 5.05v
9. Check voltage from sensor plate when rotor is in slot - got 5.05v
10. Check voltage from sensor plate when rotor is not in slot - got .01v
11. Checked VOES and found that it was not holding vacuum - disconnected it, capped fitting on carb, grounded signal wire from computerized control module so it would always be in the high vacuum state which is what I want to get the bike to idle and run at low load. I'll replace this switch later so the bike will advance timing while riding under load.
So, any thoughts as to where to go next???? This is driving me nuts!
Here's what's going on.... I got the bike from a friend. It had sat in his garage for about 8 years without being used. I got a new battery, rebuilt the carb, cleaned the tank but couldn't get it to start. I started going through the troubleshooting process in the FSM. The coil was bad so I got a new one. That got the bike to start although it was very hard to start. The starting woes have continued though....
Right now, it will crank and crank and not start. I am continually checking for spark and it is intermittent. I have one of those inline spark plug test lights. It will go from having regular spark to having spark on the just the first few cranks to having no spark in no particular order. It's like there is something going on that is randomly disabling the ignition. It'll crank and crank, then I'll mess around with some stuff and it'll fire right up on first touch of the switch. It'll idle but when I try to rev it a bit, it'll die and won't start back up.
There is no rhyme or reason as to when it will have spark and when it won't.
I've gone through the troubleshooting steps again and done the following....
1. Checked condition of plugs and wires - all look good
2. Test for spark - this is the test that comes back with varied results
3. Check battery voltage while cranking - got 11.75v
4. Check ignition module ground - removed, cleaned and reinstalled ground wire
5. Check voltage to coil - was within half a volt of reading at battery
6. Check voltage across coil - was within half a volt of reading at battery
7. Check voltage from computerized control module - got 5.05v which is what it's supposed to be
8. Check voltage from computerized control module while plugged in - got 5.05v
9. Check voltage from sensor plate when rotor is in slot - got 5.05v
10. Check voltage from sensor plate when rotor is not in slot - got .01v
11. Checked VOES and found that it was not holding vacuum - disconnected it, capped fitting on carb, grounded signal wire from computerized control module so it would always be in the high vacuum state which is what I want to get the bike to idle and run at low load. I'll replace this switch later so the bike will advance timing while riding under load.
So, any thoughts as to where to go next???? This is driving me nuts!
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
zenwarrior
Ignition/Tuner/ECM/Fuel Injection
4
05-19-2007 11:21 AM