For the guys who are looking at these woundering who I am, I was Shovelhead77'. Pinion Help me out alot with all my questions.,

Patricks BBQ, If I can turn that into this with help from all the guys in here anyone can do it....Good luck. I look forward to seeing the finished Iron.

Daryl

 

You did a really nice job on the bike build Daryl! Fine looking machine........pg

 

Thank you PG. I don't think I could have done it without the help from all you guys. Wether you all know it or not, you all had a big part of what she has become.. Thanks again..
Daryl

 

StrutinIronhead - Thanks for the pics and the encouragement. The colder it gets the more difficult it is to get out in the garage and get to work. But when I see the work others have doen its a great motivator.

I have increased my budget to $1600.00 I have spent about $450.00 on tools and little things. Now its time to get to work. I have verified that mt local HD dealership can do the machine work for me and get my pistons and jugs cleaned up and sized properly.

I have a local guy that can do the powdercoating for hte jugs and heads and I think that I can probably polish up the rockerboxes well enough or I can send them out to get chromed.

I expect that I have the heads off tonight and I'll be able to go from there.

As I get into the heads and pulling them is there any advise that I need to consider before I get there? I know that the heads come off in one piece (Especially the rear Head) due to clearence from the frame.

Thanks again and I hope y'all had a great New Year evening...

 

Make sure you slack off all the tension on the valve train first. Adjust all the lifters so the pushrods are loose. Take the front rocker box off the head before you remove the head - it's easier, even if you can't do the rear one that way.Be sureto stuff some clean rags around the rods in the cases as you pull the cylinders off. That will prevent anything from falling into the crankcase while you're doing the rest of the tear-down.

When you are putting it back together, before tightening the cylinder base bolts, turn the motor over (manually!) a few rotations to let the pistons center the cylinders where they naturally fall. I think this is important because there's some slop possible in the cylinder positioning. The easiest way to turn the motor over is to put it in one of the upper gears and rotate the rear wheel.

Have fun!

 

As 83XLX said make sure you have all four pushrods loose, I took mine out completely, Bring the tappets all the way down with the two locking nuts. Whatever you do, DO NOT force them down, (the tappets). Other than that have fun. If you have more questions let us know, my rebuild is still fresh in my head.

 

Ok it's Sunday the 7th, I had to work all night last night but Im driven to get the heads off today. Her is what I have done.

1. Removed the Coil
2. Removed the Carb and manafold
3. Removed the front motor mount
4. Removed the rear motor mount bolt.
5. I have cut away all fo the electrical and wrapped it around to the rear of the bike leaving it intact.
6. Removed the rocker box oil tubes
7. Removed the Valve pushrods and assembly

I am now ready to remove the heads.

This is where Im a little worried.

1. How in the heck do you get to the right side head bolts?

I can fit a 9/16 deepwell socket on the left side headbolts but I cant even get a regular socket on the right side bolts They are sort of inside of the rocker box / head assembly.

2. How do you remove the bolts, (any of them) they are crazy tight

I dont want to start beating the crap out of this thing so how do I loosen up thos headbolts with out taking a hammer to it?

3. I cant for the life of me figure out how I'm gonna get the rear head off.It has bullet dressing bolts on it and they are touching the frame. In one area the frame is actually bent to accomodate the dressing bolts. I cant imagine how to get this off... Any suggestions?


If y'all could help out I'd really appreciate it...

 

The torque value on the head bolts is 65 ft lbs. That means they will be tight when you try to remove them. I would use a half inch break over bar or the half inch drive torque wrench you will need to have when you put the heads back on.

A hammer? No, don't use that! Seriously, the only need you will have for a hammer is if the head is stuck after you have removed the 4 bolts from each head. In the event that they are stuck, use a rawhide hammer and bump a heavy part of the casting. Do not pry between the fins.

You may have to use a 'thinwall' deep socket to get access to the right side bolts. It is tight, but they can be accessed. I will look at mine and tell you later what exactly it is going to take.

As for the bullet bolts: I cannot picture what you are referring to here. Can you post a photo of them to help us determine a solution to that problem?.........pg

 

I said bullet bolts but I meant to say that they were acorn nuts & bolt heads. It looks like the person that had the bike last pulled the motor and rebuilt it out of the frame. Unless I hear otherwise I have resigend to pulling the motor.

I have disconnected and labled the wiring, removed all of the oil lines from the oil tank and looked it over to make sure that I'm not missing anything.

I have also removed the sproket cover, chain and break cable.

I think that Ive got it all covered.

Things that I have noticed that may be a problem.

1. the kick start shaft is bent and twisted.
2. the break pedal shaft is also bent
3. the Kick start shaft must have some kind of a seal or something and its leaking.
4. Id like to beat the person that molested this bike to death...

Is the kicker shaft a pain to replace? How about the break shaft?

 

Acorn nut-headed head bolts?.....Hmmm, that's a new one on me.
OK, if you have to remove the engine, then you will have to. First try removing the front engine braces and then unbolt the 4 bolts at the rear brace.
The engine may drop forward (and down) enough to get the acron head bolts out. Throw the things away and replace with standard head bolts for the rebuild.

Things that I have noticed that may be a problem.
1. the kick start shaft is bent and twisted.
Need to repair that.
2. the break pedal shaft is also bent
Ditto.
3. the Kick start shaft must have some kind of a seal or something and its leaking.
It does and it needs replacing.
4. Id like to beat the person that molested this bike to death...
No comment here, except I agree with you in full.
Is the kicker shaft a pain to replace? How about the break shaft?
It is not that big a deal replacing either one of the levers. Just keep focused on this fact......everything you are doing is going to improve the bike and make it restored to original conditional.
Since the bike is a 1977, I have little info on it and I always get into trouble when I start recommending procedures to repair anything newer than a 1974, but there are members here who can fully answer your questions........pg