Primary sprockets
#1
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#8
23/51 is, in my experience, an ideal setup. Reasonable acceleration and low hiway RPMs. Myself and my two local IronHead riding buddies all run this combination; as well as a bunch on another IronHead forum.
With an o-ring chain you do have to grind some metal from the sprocket cover. With a regular chain i think you would be good to go.
With an o-ring chain you do have to grind some metal from the sprocket cover. With a regular chain i think you would be good to go.
#9
The OP stated his 'original primary sprocket' came as a 19T. I see everyone overlooked that and assume he is talking about his transmission sprocket. (Which must be the case here)
The original primary sprocket is a 34T.
The original transmission sprocket is a 19T. (for 1970-71 XLCH)
Original trans sprocket for a 1970-73 XLH was a 20T.
Original trans sprocket for 1973 and later (all models) was a 21T.
The ideal set up for gearing with the Sportsters of these years is having the drum brake 51T on the rear wheel and a 23T trans sprocket.
This is highway gear and runs well out on the open road. It has enough gear down low to get you around town without bogging down too.
Really, it is the absolute best compromise of gear to be had on a Sporty.......... pg
The original primary sprocket is a 34T.
The original transmission sprocket is a 19T. (for 1970-71 XLCH)
Original trans sprocket for a 1970-73 XLH was a 20T.
Original trans sprocket for 1973 and later (all models) was a 21T.
The ideal set up for gearing with the Sportsters of these years is having the drum brake 51T on the rear wheel and a 23T trans sprocket.
This is highway gear and runs well out on the open road. It has enough gear down low to get you around town without bogging down too.
Really, it is the absolute best compromise of gear to be had on a Sporty.......... pg
Last edited by piniongear; 02-16-2009 at 09:02 PM. Reason: corrected 29T to 20T