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The bike was runnin fine. Today I went to ride and kicked it a jillion times with nothing but a couple of coughs. Figured it was just ME tryin to get the hang of this "Kickin Thang". Finally pulled my head out of "rear defillade" and noticed a puddle of gas on the case. Smelled it but thought I was just flooding it out. Appears to be leaking from the pump? (the rod connected to the throttle linkage) on the carb.
Rather than rebuild I would probably re-carb, but this is all really new to me and I'm still waitin on the shop manual to show up. Any suggestions? Been a long while since my wrench turning days but it's definately something I can do.
You say the bike is a 1974 and has a accelerator pump on the carb? It sounds like a Bendix carb to me. You can buy a kit for it for around $25, or a new carb will be close to $275 plus or minus a few bucks.
The choice is yours. If it dripped gas onto the case from the accelerator pump, the FULL rebuild kit has a new pump assembly as part of it and I believe this is around $38 for this kit.................pg
pg,
Thanks! Whatever type it is, it says "Harley Davidson" and lower "Japan". The parts manual I have doesn't identify the make just says 72-early 76. I don't know if this cut and paste will work or not.
But then again, the carb doesn't seem to be an exact match up to anything I've seen.
guess I'll just take my lazy butt down and shot a pic of the actual carb and post it. This is a pic off e-bay that is close but not exact.
I've been to the other posts about which carb, etc. but would just as soon stay stock if possible.
Also very interested in the posts concerning speeds and sprocket sizes. Guy I bought this from said don't take it on the interstate as 3500RPM and about 50-55 is where the bike should run. Doesn't make sense to me if the advertised redline is 6800 or there abouts. Don't want to have to rebuild the whole dang engine just yet but loafing them will beat em up worse than working them where they should be (not redline all the time...) but 4000 to 5000 shouldn;t be all that bad? By the way speedo indicates less than 14,000 original and my guess is it;s pretty close. 'nough of my ramblin, as I say I;ve definately got a lot of ??????
scoot
scooterwoot.......Yes that is a Bendix. Since it says Harley-Davidson on the carb that tells me that it is an original carb, made by Bendix-Zenith for H-D. If you want to purchase a new Bendix carb you will want to pick a 38mm size, not the 40mm. You will have a choice to make: Fixed main jet or adjustable main jet. I bought an adjustable M/J for mine but if I were to do it again I would choose the fixed jet model. Sticking with a Bendix as a replacement will assure that you do not have to do any tricks with the existing throttle (cable) setup. It will bolt right up. No choke control to modify either. Your air filter will fit without any modification needed. These are a few of the many reasons not to change carb brands. A lot of folks may tell you to get an S&S or some other brand that they prefer, but be aware of having to possibly rework a lot of things to get it to work.
If you want to rebuild what you have then get a kit. This would be much cheaper, if cost is an issue. Get the kit that includes the accelerator pump. This kit will have a float needle, O rings, and a gasket as well as a drop in accelerator pump with new rubber boot.........................pg
EDIT NOTE: Oh, I failed to comment on your rpm/speed question. Yes the machine has a redline around 6800 rpms but you will find that turning it at 3500 going 55 to 60 mph is going to be a lot more fun than running it faster. Vibration is the issue. An ironhead has a lot of this. Trust me, running it at 3000 to 3500 is not lugging that engine. The engine has a lot of low end torque. Conversely, anytime any engine is run at a higher rpm, that engine is not going to last as long as one run at a lower rpm. So, ride it where it is comfortable FOR YOU and enjoy the trip.
Thank the Lord for cam phones. Here are a couple of pics of the carb on the bike. Still don't know if it's a bendix, but expect it's japanese made. 1st pic is of carb which looks like the other pic I posted except for the plastic toggle in pic 2 and where it is leaking is pic 3. Guess it don't take no rocket science to figure out a reuild is in order, however is this the optimum carb or should I start savin to buy something better?
Thanks,
Scooterwoot
pg,
Thanks for the info. Always thought Bendix was American....I guess almost everything says Japan on it these days..LOL. Guess the little plastic **** must be the adjustable main jet control you were talking about. Also guess we must have been posting pretty much at the same time. Rebuild is the way for right now and I must assume that online is the way to go to buy the kit.
Again thanks and will talk to you more about the speed/rpm thing some other day. But just wondering, other than blowing the whole damn thing up and shaking my self silly any reason for not running at 4000-4500 for extended periods?
scooterwoot
scooterwoot.........Yes that is a Bendix. Send me an email if you want some info on rebuilding this carb and I will be glad to send you a PDF covering this. I cannot attach that info here on the forum.................pg
The carb in the pictures is a Kiehen. The plastic **** is a stop for the low speed air -fuel mixture. If you take the plastic cap off, there is a very small adjusting screw in there. About 1 and 1/2 turn out from the bottom is a good place to start with adjusting the low speed. That carb has a fixed main and intermediate jet. Both can be changed pretty easily to tune the carb to the engine. If it is overflowing, there is a discharge tube that is connected to the bowl. If the fuel is running out of this tube, the float is sticking.
One vote for Keihin, it look alike it ........but Harley replaced Bendix with Keihin end of the year 1976...
Sticking float is common problem in older Keihin carbs, as I know... I have used to close petcock.
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