Harley Davidson Forums

Harley Davidson Forums (https://www.hdforums.com/forum/)
-   Ironhead (https://www.hdforums.com/forum/ironhead-66/)
-   -   77 xlt refurbish (https://www.hdforums.com/forum/ironhead/840840-77-xlt-refurbish.html)

naildriver29190 01-26-2013 09:52 PM

77 xlt refurbish
 
I got my 77 running last summer, with new paint. The heads exteriors are worn with light rust. I removed them today, and will re finish probably to the orig black jugs and metallic silver heads. What should I do about the rockers and crankcase? they are badly oxidized. I can probably polish the rockers or have them chromed, or buy chrome ones but I need to keep the cost down. I know that I will need som repair in the timing area, noticible play in the timing shaft. The heads appear in good condition but I will inspect closer. My main goal is not to spend too much. I am looking for advise. Thanks and happy new year

IronMick 01-27-2013 07:47 AM

Like many other guys i use BBQ paint on the heads and cylinders. There are other popular options including wrinkle black from HD, VHT, etc.

I would not have the parts chromed, but that is my personal choice. Polished aluminum looks best and hold up the best over time IMO. But it is a LOT of work.

By the timing shaft, do you mean the gear shaft 24005-75? If so you do need to check flywheel end play to determine sprocket shaft bearing wear, and other things covered only in the factory manuals. It is easy enough to do with a few tools but you do need the manuals to do it.

Do you have the factory service manual 99484-78 and the factory parts catalog 99451-78B? If you do not have both of these manuals i suggest you get both and study them before going any further. If the gear shaft is loose there could be serious problem[s].

For the manuals check with a local indie motorcycle shop, HD dealer, or put the part numbers into the Google and eBay searches. They are widely available.

Post pics of the inside of the heads, the piston tops and the inside of the cylinders. Steady camera, no flash, flat lighting.

naildriver29190 01-27-2013 11:22 AM

Yep got the manuals. It might be the timing shaft, but I havent got that far into it. I see the movement on 32533-xx when trying to set the timing. I know that the cam is probably worn.

I am leaning tward polishing the alum, time I have money not so much. What about the cases, crank and trans were they rough when new? How should I treat them to make them look good?

What about the frame, paint or powdercoat? Bet I know your answer! Do you know a source for the orig stickers? They are not pristine.

Thanks Mick

IronMick 01-27-2013 02:25 PM

This website for polishing has been around for many years ...

http://www.chuckhawks.com/harley_polish.htm

The cases, AFAIK, have always been rough; only the covers were smooth. My indie put the cases on a big polishing wheel to clean them up when we had it all apart.

I put 12000 to 15000 miles a year on my bike so it is for riding not showing, and i treat it as such. So for me making it clean, shiny and pretty does not work. The cases do not now look like when they were fresh off his wheel.

My personal preference is to keep things close to original, so i prefer simple, semigloss black paint for the frame. For powder coat remember to keep free spots for grounds, and the VIN numbers.

Best source for NOS OEM decals is Rick Simpson. No website, but here is his e-mail along with some sources for NOS parts. Rick will e-mail his latest catalog to you ...

rdns@genesco.net <- decals & transfers

These are the ones to try for NOS parts that i know of ...

http://www.tomsnosparts.com/
www.OldDude.com
www.SportySpecialties.com
www.NOSParts.nl <- does not ship to North America
www.JWBoon.com <- does not ship to North America

naildriver29190 01-27-2013 08:47 PM

Wow thanks Mick. Well I stripped her down, side covers off. The cams were installed with no spacers so I will guess that the slop I see in the breaker plate is because it has end play. The manual is pretty clear on how to check it through the tappet holes. I am very pleased with the condition of the engine. The cylinders have no verticle scoring and I can still see the honing marks around the cylinders. Carbon on the top only, the rings were doing thier job. I will try to post pics soon. There is no excessive play in the push rods so I will not go any deeper in the engine. The frame is bare just need to remove the rear fork and I will be ready to clean and paint. I am going to paint semi gloss black. I knew that is what you would suggest. Bye for now.

IronMick 01-27-2013 10:47 PM

Shimming the cams as described in the manual is a controversial topic. Some experts say they should be shimmed, others say no. I do not shim mine.

Here is a link to the HD Service Bulletin on this topic, on my SkyDrive ...

https://skydrive.live.com/redir?resi...FGNvEDVxz6kBLE

naildriver29190 02-09-2013 12:15 AM

cam shaft end play
 
Does this apply to the gear that the timing plate is attached to? That is the one I am seing play in. I noticed it moving while running.

IronMick 02-09-2013 07:02 AM

The ignition parts are attached to cam gear #2, the rear intake. If you completely remove the ignition parts you can see the end of the shaft. It is unlikely that you are seeing this shaft move. More likely you are seeing ignition parts moving that are loosely attached, worn or whatever. Most likely worn parts as this is common.

What is the year of your bike? Points or electronic ignition? OEM ignition parts or after market?

naildriver29190 02-12-2013 09:24 PM

ignition
 
1977 XLT, points are stock. This brings up a good subject. Should I replace the warn orig ignition parts with orig, or HD 32517-70 teflon, HD 32609-78 electronic, or some aftermarket part?

IronMick 02-12-2013 09:31 PM

A very popular electronic ignition is the Ultima. It is what i have ...

http://www.ultimaproducts.com/programmableignition.html

Jireh Cycles has a good price ...

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Ultima-Progr...item3ccee7e8ec


All times are GMT -5. The time now is 09:24 PM.


© 2024 MH Sub I, LLC dba Internet Brands