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Clutch Safety Switch Problems

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  #121  
Old 07-15-2019, 03:11 PM
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Well that’s good, maybe another switch messing up.
I am taking in to have looked at, warranty covers anyway.
 
  #122  
Old 07-15-2019, 03:22 PM
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Does the cruise still work? Does it idle odd or stall? If the cruise still works the neutral safety switch is stuck or dirty. I took my left clamshell apart and worked graphite into the switch, been fine for months now. $220 for a left control or $250 for both lighted controls. You decide.
 
  #123  
Old 07-15-2019, 03:29 PM
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No, doesn’t stall or idle wrong. Only time it idles different is when warm day and one cylinder cuts out to control heat.
I think it is just what you described. A sticky switch.
 
  #124  
Old 07-15-2019, 03:37 PM
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Ok, does your bike have cruise?
 
  #125  
Old 07-15-2019, 03:43 PM
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Yes, cruise works fine still.
 
  #126  
Old 07-15-2019, 04:02 PM
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That's what mine did, doesn't need a control yet. Try the graphite or another non stick lube first . Good luck!
 
  #127  
Old 07-15-2019, 04:03 PM
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Thanks TJ
 
  #128  
Old 09-11-2019, 10:03 PM
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Stalled today and my couldn't get my 2017 Road King Special to start. Took a few seconds before I decided to put it in neutral and try that, which worked. I normally start in neutral, so I hadn't realized there was a problem with my clutch switch. Came to the forum looking for answers. I haven't seen anyone post what worked for me, so I figured I'd post to see if it helps anyone else. There's a piston switch on the left switch housing. The button is normally in. When you pull the clutch lever, it pops out (i.e., it works in reverse of most switches). I took off the clutch lever and pressed the button. I could see it was moving freely. Some have reported a seized switch. That wasn't my problem. I then put the lever back on and tried wiggling it around a bit before tightening it up all the way. I could get it to work before tightening the bolts, but it would not work when tightened all the way up. I then pulled the clutch lever bracket inward (away from the grip and switch housing) while tightening the two bolts. There's a little tab near the switch that locks the switch housing to the lever bracket, so there's not much room for movement, but it was enough for me. It works now. No need for a $250 switch. It's probably been acting up since I replaced the grips, and I just hadn't noticed because I normally start in neutral. For anyone experimenting with this, do not try to start the bike with the clutch lever removed. You'll have the switch in the correct position, but your clutch will be engaged. Not a good idea.
 
  #129  
Old 09-12-2019, 02:57 AM
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Originally Posted by FredCa
Sorry this is late but maybe it will help. When you squeeze the clutch lever, you can see the plunger switch. See the attached video. We rode again today and it continues to operate properly.

Thanks Feed, I reported mine to the service writer when I did the oil cooler recall at the beginning of this year. I got the typical dealer BS, " Its bad to start your engine in gear with the clutch in" so I have been dealing with it. Now I have a fix and something to add to my service regiment. video was perfect.

Mooch
 
  #130  
Old 09-12-2019, 10:13 AM
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Had this problem for two years now and I fix it with a little WD40, works fine for about 4 months then it needs another lube. If it comes down to replacing the clutch pack I'll do it myself. HD mechanics.... Not even gonna go there.
 


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