I will have to see what clearances are like, but a fiber washer might be an asset after getting rid of the barrier. The biggest problem I may have is I was planning to keep the ‘17 RGS in Sparks, might have to take it to Gilbert so I can ride it after modifying it. Riding weather in Sparks is fading fast.

 

I made a clear plexiglass cover to watch the oil. While I did not machine the clutch slave back into the outside of it I could fill the transmission and run it on the dyno. The amount of oil coming through the bearing is where I believe the major problem is. The gears are on the other side of the bearing and there is nothing that you can do over there. You either have to stop that oil, or get it out of the area fast enough so the level stays down. Problem is the oil level in the M8 version of the transmission is higher to start with than the TC and you cannot change that. I've made many changes and nothing has stopped the transfer completely. I have managed to slow it down by about 75%, I still feel it's not good enough. Placing a washer in the area to try and slow the oil from the bearing isn't going to do to much as the oil will just keep coming unless you can find a way to get it sealed from the area around the main shaft. I've been trying to get a sealed bearing to replace the original one to see if that would solve it but no luck so far on the bearing.

I've made slinger rings, bushings to reduce the hole in the mainshaft, machining changes to the bearing support plate and more but nothing yet has stopped the transfer issue. I have a Baker cover to try next and will see what that does. The Baker cover increases the area around the mainshaft so it will let the oil drain away better but requires some other changes made to the pushrod and adjuster. I may get it on and check out in a few weeks as I've just been to busy to mess with it lately.

 

Well, sounds like we’re screwed........

 

Damn, you give up too easy!

 

I know there are very smart people working on this, I hope they find a fix. I own an M8.

 

It allows the slave cylinder to be removed without draining the trannie of oil.

PPReason IMO, lay the bike to the left side will keep the oil in the right place.

 

I wouldn’t have guessed that, but it also traps oil behind it that then gets pulled into the primary.

 

If you try and remove the area between the Slave and the oil, it will allow the oil to sit on the slave at all time. The new slave does not have an o-ring seal around it like the pre 2017 did. Not sure if it will hurt it or not but did not feel like trying. I did buy the early slave and while it does fit it requires making a new clutch line from the master to the salve to try it out and I did get time to do that yet. Another of the things still on the list to try. If you do cut holes in it it will drain the transmission level down if you try to remove the slave, even on the jiffy stand.

 

Ok...then instruct to drain transmission B4 changing clutch slave...like drain primary before servicing what's behind the cover? Then create trans oil drainback source as suggested and see if it helps reduce transfer.

 

And I guess if Steve’s theory is right, the new Softy’s will have the issue too.