Milwaukee Eight (M8) 2017 and up M8 Air and Liquid Cooled discussion
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  #21  
Old 02-21-2018, 05:04 PM
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Great work Mark!

Well you know the moco will just steal the idea anyway. Seems they did it with the compensator a few years back.
 
  #22  
Old 02-21-2018, 08:52 PM
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Great job! Crossing our fingers that it does the job.
 
  #23  
Old 02-21-2018, 09:44 PM
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Originally Posted by Max Headflow
Looks good. Did you by any chance put an indicator on the nuts sealing surface to check run out?
Hey Max, the run out appears to be.007-.008”. I don’t know if that’s too much. What do you think? I can get them to machine another nut, I just don’t know if it will be any better. With Harley there could be that much runout in the mainshaft. Look what they say is OK on a crankshaft.
 
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  #24  
Old 02-21-2018, 10:03 PM
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Originally Posted by Max Headflow
I would have thought that the shop would have single point threaded a piece of 1 inch steel to the 3/4-16 and used it to cut the sealing surface centered on the threads.. I'm curious as to how close he got it. Seems to me that it would be the easiest way to grab the nut.. How tall was the nut you used?

As far as the cover goes, I would think that the machinist would put a couple holes in a pallet to hold the cover.. A better way would be to use the cover locating pins. Then once set up it would tale less then 15 minutes for each process. The setup / tear down, I would think, should be about 1 hour. Doing 20 sets should drop the price considerably.
Using a grade 8 nut makes it plenty hard for the sealing surface. The clearance in the I.D threads and O.D threads accounts for the runout he’s seeing of .006 or so. Unless we thread it onto a locating surface to center the nut, single pointing the threads or tapping them wouldn’t bring the concentricity down much if at all, (if we consider it’s a 2b class of fit)

And I always enjoy the arm chair machinists quoting our cycle times for us. A pallet is what we bolt our tombstones to, or fixture plates if using a vertical mill. What tools are we using? Solid carbide or indexable ? How many flutes? SFM and IPT?? Solid carbide drills ? Is that drill in a shrink fit or an collet?

If you can set up a fixture, indicate it in..load all your tools, do your offsets, write the program, single block thru the program, and do all that without scrapping any?? Sorry, what we do isnt as easy as you think
 
  #25  
Old 02-21-2018, 10:05 PM
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Originally Posted by $tonecold
Hey Max, the run out appears to be.007-.008”. I don’t know if that’s too much. What do you think? I can get them to machine another nut, I just don’t know if it will be any better. With Harley there could be that much runout in the mainshaft. Look what they say is OK on a crankshaft.
That’s fine $Stonecold, .007 to .008 is to be expected. If you move forward with production, we can tighten up the runout. It’ll only affect seal life, and at this point it’ll be negligible in your testing.
 

Last edited by lyork; 02-21-2018 at 10:12 PM.
  #26  
Old 02-21-2018, 10:11 PM
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Originally Posted by $tonecold
Hey Max, the run out appears to be.007-.008”. I don’t know if that’s too much. What do you think? I can get them to machine another nut, I just don’t know if it will be any better. With Harley there could be that much runout in the mainshaft. Look what they say is OK on a crankshaft.
It's hard to say.. After all the seal does float some.. HD claims run-out can be something like 0.011 on the crank but it's measured at the end and not close to the bearing. The crank seal on HDs is right next to the bearing.. Still the spacer is a slip fit and it has some play so there can be more run-out.

I'm not sure how close you can get the surface to run true as the nut's centering is based on how the thread are cut on the shaft. They should be true too the shaft but it really depends on how they were cut.

I'd figured that if you were under 0.005 you'd be good but that was really an armchair figure. I'd give it a shot..

If it don't work, send me a nut and I'll cut it on single point threaded shaft.
 
  #27  
Old 02-21-2018, 10:29 PM
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the seal design allows for quite a bit of runout. There’s also a consideration of surface Ra per seal design
 
  #28  
Old 02-21-2018, 11:34 PM
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Originally Posted by Max Headflow
It's hard to say.. After all the seal does float some.. HD claims run-out can be something like 0.011 on the crank but it's measured at the end and not close to the bearing. The crank seal on HDs is right next to the bearing.. Still the spacer is a slip fit and it has some play so there can be more run-out.

I'm not sure how close you can get the surface to run true as the nut's centering is based on how the thread are cut on the shaft. They should be true too the shaft but it really depends on how they were cut.

I'd figured that if you were under 0.005 you'd be good but that was really an armchair figure. I'd give it a shot..

If it don't work, send me a nut and I'll cut it on single point threaded shaft.
If you will, get a 3/4”-16 grade 8 nut and cut it down for me. The seal is 1.0625 ID. Leave .25” width hex on it. Overall width is .580”. Chamfer the edge slightly to facilitate insertion in the seal. Let me know what I owe you for materials, time, and shipping. I would like to get it a little better than it is. I reset the dial indicator to a better mount and it was reading .009”.
 
  #29  
Old 02-22-2018, 12:17 AM
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Simple, clean, badass. Subscribing. Let us know if the runout decreases with the new nut. Appreciate your R&D and taking the time to get the information out to us.
 
  #30  
Old 02-22-2018, 12:32 AM
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Originally Posted by $tonecold
If you will, get a 3/4”-16 grade 8 nut and cut it down for me. The seal is 1.0625 ID. Leave .25” width hex on it. Overall width is .580”. Chamfer the edge slightly to facilitate insertion in the seal. Let me know what I owe you for materials, time, and shipping. I would like to get it a little better than it is. I reset the dial indicator to a better mount and it was reading .009”.

I'll give it a shot. If the new nut is better, I'll figure something out. If not you owe me nothing.
 
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