Taking it apart again today to make sure oil pump is align this time around. Should be a lot faster since l know what to expect and take off.
That warranty is long gone, knew it from the get-go, no biggie to me, always done my own wrenching. Ain’t ssscccrrddd. 😎😎😎
Last resort if oil light keeps on is to teplace sensor once all put together again. Talked to Fuel Moto yesterday and they were quick to ifentify the problem, just like some guys here suggested. Oil pump being out of alignment. Their reasoning of why light took two weeks to turn on is maybe a kinked o-ring and finally gave.
Mines a 17, and when I swapped my cam I also bought the latest pump iteration (think it was #4) and updated. I’ve put 10K on it since, and just recently had one lamp occurence.
Because I’ve put a lot of trouble free miles on WITH the latest pump, I’m betting mine is a switch - it reset after a quick restart. It’ll be interesting to see if re-centering yours takes care of the issue.
Had a car that did that, oil pump was going bad. Had enough oil in the car but the pump wasnt working so the car thought it was low on oil I didnt read any of these replys im sure someone has said that already
I have a 17 SGS, just did the full stage 1 a few hundred miles ago. The other night I was leaving my girlfriends house at about 2 am. My bike is loud AF, so I did a rolling start down the driveway into the street and then cranked it over. Oil light came on as I cruised down the street. Stopped and turned the bike off and turned it back on, light was gone. Didn't give it enough time to prime?
Any thoughts......? BTW, the guy that says "if your oil light comes on, your engine is F'ed" probably has absolutely no idea what he's talking about, but thanks for the laugh haha
Last edited by Kyle Leslie; 03-16-2018 at 05:37 AM.
Below are the pictures of what happens when you don't align the oil pump. I am VERY lucky to have an oil light come on before the whole engine went kapoot!
This is a result of my own stupidity obviously, skipped the step of turning the engine 360 by mistake honestly. Lesson learned.
With that said, took the lifters and cam out the chest to check for marks, frosting, unusual lines............nothing. All seems dandy but brought them to work to the quality inspection guy to get a second opinion.
All damage looks within the oil pump assembly, the face that mates to the cam plate is intact, as well as the back housing that contacts the crankcase.
I thank you all that posted positive feedback and some of ya'll experiences. If you don't like what you see then move on and GTFOUH, no need for'em negative nancy's.
Last but not least, thanks to VDeuce for pointing out M1450 bulletin, I now see the difference of how to tighten the bolts along with alignment. I had no idea about such bulletin.
Now to clean the oil pump, and slap it back into the bike! :icon_ crackup:
Scavenge gerotor to backplate. Backplate to crankcase side. Scavenge gerotor to housing. Feed gerotor to camplate. Feed gerotor to housing side.
Last edited by TAKITO SEXY; 03-16-2018 at 06:23 AM.
Reason: Pictures upload.
I personally do not think that is from misalignment. The alignment is necessary due to the tolerance of the crank run out or Harley would simply dowel the oil pump like the cam plate.
The crank is a rather loose fit on the inner gyrator oil pump rotor lobe. If you do not double check your work and you have the pump down on the low side, when you start the motor, it can break the harden pump rotors.
I personally think you should have inspected the thickness of the rotors, pump case depth, and space between the rotors to make sure it is correct to the tolerance in the service manual. I know it is new but things happen in the machining process and Harley has had problems here lately with the manufactory suppliers of the M8 engine.
I think that side scoring is from something going thru there and the machining is pretty cruddy from worn out tooling in the machining process.
Of course, just my opinion and I apologize for my first posting 16. Thanks for the pictures. You are a brave man going there like this. Harley has had had this silly alignment issue with the oil pump since the TC. There are pins to do it but they align to threaded holes which is a totally sorry way to align since tapping process can be slightly off center and is rather sloppy fit side to side also. Crap like this is why Japanese engineers just shake their head and roll their eyes.
When you go back together, be sure to get a mechanical pressure gage and check your idle and 2000 rpm oil pressure to make sure it is correct to the service manual.
Last edited by Jackie Paper; 03-16-2018 at 07:10 AM.
That is an early pump, made somewhere around the middle of 2016. Throw it in the garbage and get the latest version. Makre sure it is dated at minimum after 10/10/17. Later the better. Mine is dated 12/15/17 on the box.
If it were me I would get a dial indicator and base (Harbor Freight has them) and look at the crank runout as suggested above by RIPSAW.
What does the camplate look like? I would also expect scoring there.
So in summary:
Check crank runout
NEW oil pump and possibly camplate (depends on scoring)
Use M1450 alignment procedure
May want to flush case and oil pan (that metal had to go somewhere)
Change the oil
Change oil at 100, 500
For extra credit, lol, get a cheap borescope (like $30 or so) and look in the spark plug holes to see what the cylinders look like (mentioned in M1450)
One thing to be aware of when ordering the new pump - the parts diagrams show that there are multiple components to the pump. The common replacement seems to only include the scavenge side gerotors. It does not have the feed gerotors nor the backing plate, so you will need to apply due diligence to make sure you get everything including the feed side gerotors.
The casting number and date wheel code on your pump are pretty early production, so definitely get rid of it due to potential sumping concerns.
03-14-2018, 03:29 PM
