Heading to the Americade rally with my Stage 4 2018 Road glide a few weeks ago, I contacted the performance vendor that's there every year to ask whether the fueling oil pump was the answer to sumping on the M8s. The owner responded that it helps a bit, but that it does not stop the engine from sumping. He told me that the fix they found was an external engine breather, which somehow corrects an oil pressure issue in these bikes. My bike has the latest oil pump from Harley as it was built in February of this year. Going the Stage 4 route, I wanted to get ahead of the sumping issue. My setup looks like a y adapter off the front and rear cylinder breather bolts. From there, a single tube was run into what looks like a check valve where air and/or oil can only go in one direction and that runs to a small catch can that sits between my frame that houses a small sponge that should be cleaned periodically. Prior to setting this up, he drained a little over 7 ounces of oil from the crank case, which he said should be around 4 ounces. I rode hard for a few days and went back for him to check it again and there was only 4 ounces of oil in the crank case. I am not a tech and simply stating what was done on my bike. He gave me a few other pointers with the M8 that I found interesting. 1. Never idle an m8 on the kickstand 2. Never uses synthetic oil 3. Use a thicker oil in summer months 4. Throw as many cooling gadgets at it as you can(Love Jugs, HD fan assisted oil cooler) as these engines gets very hot especially with the higher stages.

He did a before and after pressure test for me and prior to the check valve being installed, the pressure rapidly fluctuated back and forth which looked to be a push and pull condition. Once the check valve was installed the meter stayed pretty steady. Not exactly sure what that meant, but he said the steady single directional pressure was a good thing. I guess time will tell if this did the trick, but so far so good and no more oil specs coming from my breather. I hope this information helps someone.

 

 

The vendor was Cycle Solutions, Owners name is Chris Waddell. Seems to be a very knowledgable guy and takes the time to explain things in detail.

 

Max, I'm not trying to be a jerk so please know I'm just trying to understand....When you say " An interesting note on the crank runout.. On TCs the flat for the gear is in line with the crank pin. If it's the same on M8s, the crank is spreading not twisting"
On pressed together cranks wouldn't twisting present itself as the piston not being at TDC when the crank "thinks " it is because the relationship to the timing marks has changed? Wouldn't runout at that point on the crank be due to a slightly bent shaft ( in this case 0.0035" resulting in an 0.007 " oval orbit ) or where the dial indicator was set, being out of round ( unlikely).

 

No problems with questions.. I doubt a bent shaft of say 0.0035 makes much difference in timing. Not sure which timing marks you concerned with.. Ignition/EFI timing is taken off the flywheel edge. Cam timings come from the pinion shaft flat. For instance lets say the shaft has the offset you say.. The cam timing gears is say 1 1/2 inches in diameter. That means the position at the edge of the sprocket could be off by 0.0035 / (1.5 * PI(the circumference)) * 360 = 0.27 degrees.. Chain stretch and sprocket slop could be way more than that.

My discussion is really geared towards what the kind of runout there is. Is it a twist or spread? In that case I'm not concerned about degrees accuracy on the crank but more of quadrants.. In other words you can see whether the crank is spread or twisted? (or possibly both)

Hope that helps.

 

It has been three months since VDeuce and kllrvet updated this thread. I am planning an upgrade to my 2017 Road Glide to a Zippers Red Shift 468 and I would like to know if I need to include the Fueling oil pump in the project. I've never experience sumping but I don't ride hard. I'm sure with the new cam I will change my riding habits.

 

 

I wouldn't spend that much money on the Fueling pump unless it was a certain cure for sumping. And Fueling doesn't claim that it is. For a LOT less money I would install the new for 19 oil pump plate with the seal. That hasn't been proven yet either but it doesn't cost much. But I'm not wealthy, and that factors into my decision. If you have a lot of disposable income, then roll the dice on the Fueling

 

I just read this whole thread today and I was anticipating some closure. It just left me hanging... The cost definitely factors in these decisions for me as I am also not wealthy. Putting in the new HD pump would be a no-brainer at the very least.

 

Just the pump plate and seal. Not the entire pump. Your dealer parts guy can look it up in the 19 catalog. Or the part numbers are listed here in a thread that I am too lazy too look up