Steering Adjustment
#1
Steering Adjustment
Bike is a 2018 RGU, on the road new for 9 weeks, just hit 5k miles. Bike is fantastic in every respect, I love it.
Steering seemed tight from the beginning. It took work to maintain a straight line at highway speeds. I realized the steering was tight, but it wasn't VERY tight, and I thought it was put that way so it would break in to correct. So I gave it some time. I finally got tired of it the other day, and adjusted it. I thought I would share my experience, in case some others have a similar situation with a new bike.
It is wonderful that HD makes it so easy to adjust the steering drag. On every other bike I've owned, this involved retorqueing the head bearings. On my Harley, all I need to do is remove whatever is necessary to expose the upper steering stem pinch screw, and then loosen it. Then, take a 6" long 1/4" extension, insert it into the steering stem from below (protect your fender!). Turn clockwise to loosen, counterclockwise to tighten. Then retorque the upper steering stem pinch screw to spec, put it all back together, and test.
Notes: Bike must be on a lift, no weight on front wheel. Make sure nothing else is interfering with easy swing of the steering from stop to stop. My bike has cables getting in the way, and the right stop appears to be the hydraulic clutch line. I move cables as necessary.
I did not bother with the swing back measurement. I knew it was tight. I've done this before, the harder way on other bikes, and have a sense about what is right drag for me. It may be different for other riders. Some experimentation may be necessary..
Even with the upper steering stem pinch screw completely loose, the 1/4" drive extension with a 1/4" ratchet in my hand would not turn the bolt. I do not have a larger 1/4" lever, so I dug in and put my shoulder to it, and BANG it came loose (clockwise). This is where I almost dropped the tools onto my fender, and why it is a good idea to cover the fender, and maybe your fork cans as well.
Once I had the bolt loose, I could move it back and forth to increase (counterclockwise) tension, or decrease (clockwise) tension. It only moves a few degrees to get the action you need. I moved it to the point where I felt there was a proper amount of tension on the steering, and then tightened it up, put it back together and tested.
Wow what a difference! My test ride was tentative, 'cause I didn't want to encounter any tank slappers, having loosened the steering up considerably. I rode faster and faster, finding all the sweepers I could. Not a bit of wobble, even with hands off the bars.
Confident I had it right, me and the pax rode 150 miles yesterday into LA to visit her son, riding through nearly the whole range of traffic, from 90 mph down to crawling on the 91 and splitting lanes. Loosening up the steering really made the chassis feel better, lighter. It is easier to handle at low speeds also. I didn't realize how much I was working to hold it in line.
Steering seemed tight from the beginning. It took work to maintain a straight line at highway speeds. I realized the steering was tight, but it wasn't VERY tight, and I thought it was put that way so it would break in to correct. So I gave it some time. I finally got tired of it the other day, and adjusted it. I thought I would share my experience, in case some others have a similar situation with a new bike.
It is wonderful that HD makes it so easy to adjust the steering drag. On every other bike I've owned, this involved retorqueing the head bearings. On my Harley, all I need to do is remove whatever is necessary to expose the upper steering stem pinch screw, and then loosen it. Then, take a 6" long 1/4" extension, insert it into the steering stem from below (protect your fender!). Turn clockwise to loosen, counterclockwise to tighten. Then retorque the upper steering stem pinch screw to spec, put it all back together, and test.
Notes: Bike must be on a lift, no weight on front wheel. Make sure nothing else is interfering with easy swing of the steering from stop to stop. My bike has cables getting in the way, and the right stop appears to be the hydraulic clutch line. I move cables as necessary.
I did not bother with the swing back measurement. I knew it was tight. I've done this before, the harder way on other bikes, and have a sense about what is right drag for me. It may be different for other riders. Some experimentation may be necessary..
Even with the upper steering stem pinch screw completely loose, the 1/4" drive extension with a 1/4" ratchet in my hand would not turn the bolt. I do not have a larger 1/4" lever, so I dug in and put my shoulder to it, and BANG it came loose (clockwise). This is where I almost dropped the tools onto my fender, and why it is a good idea to cover the fender, and maybe your fork cans as well.
Once I had the bolt loose, I could move it back and forth to increase (counterclockwise) tension, or decrease (clockwise) tension. It only moves a few degrees to get the action you need. I moved it to the point where I felt there was a proper amount of tension on the steering, and then tightened it up, put it back together and tested.
Wow what a difference! My test ride was tentative, 'cause I didn't want to encounter any tank slappers, having loosened the steering up considerably. I rode faster and faster, finding all the sweepers I could. Not a bit of wobble, even with hands off the bars.
Confident I had it right, me and the pax rode 150 miles yesterday into LA to visit her son, riding through nearly the whole range of traffic, from 90 mph down to crawling on the 91 and splitting lanes. Loosening up the steering really made the chassis feel better, lighter. It is easier to handle at low speeds also. I didn't realize how much I was working to hold it in line.
The following 5 users liked this post by KrustyKush:
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kap1 (06-11-2019),
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southerncannuck (06-11-2019)
#2
#3
#4
#5
Yes, from Day One, it was tight. On the lift, if I pushed the front wheel to either side, the wheel would sluggishly return to and just past center, and then hang there, off center.
One I loosened up the adjuster, the wheel was free to act normally. Push wheel to one side and release, wheel comes back past center, and then returns to center, every time.
One I loosened up the adjuster, the wheel was free to act normally. Push wheel to one side and release, wheel comes back past center, and then returns to center, every time.
#6
Yes, from Day One, it was tight. On the lift, if I pushed the front wheel to either side, the wheel would sluggishly return to and just past center, and then hang there, off center.
One I loosened up the adjuster, the wheel was free to act normally. Push wheel to one side and release, wheel comes back past center, and then returns to center, every time.
One I loosened up the adjuster, the wheel was free to act normally. Push wheel to one side and release, wheel comes back past center, and then returns to center, every time.
#7
After u take a few dozen ones with the zero fittin apart....u will see they were worthless . I have seen guys put a full tube of grease I. And top bearing still dry.....it didn’t work most times. Dealers are too lazy or can’t get the customer to pay the 4-8 hours labor it takes to do rite on a touring bike. Lot like springers....guys won’t pay to do the high matainace on them....so they go on and on riding like ship.
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#9
After u take a few dozen ones with the zero fittin apart....u will see they were worthless . I have seen guys put a full tube of grease I. And top bearing still dry.....it didn’t work most times. Dealers are too lazy or can’t get the customer to pay the 4-8 hours labor it takes to do rite on a touring bike. Lot like springers....guys won’t pay to do the high matainace on them....so they go on and on riding like ship.
#10
I did not disassemble and grease my 2014 at 25,000 miles as recommended, but when it failed the swing test at 30,000 miles I disassembled and found very little grease in bearing. After regreasing and adjusting swing. everything was fine. On my 2009, i just pumped grease in fitting, adjusted swing when needed, and never disassemble bearing to inspect.
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