I got this code late spring on my 2018 RKS after I left it outside at my girlfriends appartment after a rain storm. I just pulled the connector apart and sprayed it with contact cleaner. Put it back together and the code did come back in a bit but my dad said don’t panic sometimes it takes time for it to clear. Cleared the code one last time and that was it! Hasn’t been back since.

 

I was in Colorado last week and had the same thing occur. I pulled the main fuse and the light didn’t come back on. Back home in PA and haven’t had anything light up. Did you have your bike in a much lower altitude area?

 

Pull the right plastic cover on the bike (the one which passenger footpeg folds up against)and check where the O2 sensor plugs into the wire harness. You may have a loose connection. The wires may not be seated correctly in the plastic connector. I had this issue back in 17 when first bought the bike and riding up in Colorado and Montana.

 

Same happened to me but it didn't start until I changed from Screaming Eagle slip ons to Vance'and Hines Big Rounds. Advise was not to tune it again. They changed the rear o2 sensor and same code came on again. Always happend when coming off the throttle. I am not going back to Harley Davidson. Going to get a dyno tune to sort this out now that it is out of warranty. Let you know what happens.

 

I had the same code pop up when riding out in Colorado! Hasn't happened again since I came back home in PA. I think it has something to do with the higher altitude, but just a guess. I had a fuel injected quad do the same thing, they changed the injector size for a different altitude (smaller). You would think the ECM would adjust for the thicker air.

 

Did you solve your problem? have the same with my bike after I replace exhaust to Vance and Hines:/

 

Stock 02 sensors are narrow band and capable of just that.

 

Sounds like VH may be more restrictive, just curious...do you rev match or as some call it blip the throttle when coming off the throttle to downshift?

 

I had the dyno tune last week and have been riding. Light has not come back on yet but this is what the dyno technician found: the map HD istalled in my bike with the SE Race Tuner had the bike running rich low end and high end with lean set up in between. Basically the fuel to air ratio was all over the place. Four cycles to get it all sorted on the dyno. Runs beautiful now with amazing throttle response. HD Dealers cannot do what Fred did at Pro Cycle Dyno here in Brisbane. HD maps are ****. They have their bikes running so lean for pollution control. My bike was running too lean with one map then too rich with another map. I am not a mechanic but my experience with HD service was a complete let down. I'm done with them. Get a good tune, use any race tuner and get a proper set up. It made a huge difference to my bike in throttle response, smoothing out the cruising range and added about 14hp from the SE factory set tune.

 

I have had this same issue on my 18 LTD since applying an FP3 Tune to the bike for my specific CAM/Exhaust set up. The P0152 code throws after every 2nd start. meaning: I ride the bike after an overnight stay until I shut it off. Next start, code comes up within first few minutes. I reset code and restart and ride, no code until I shut it off and restart it again, then same process all over again. The bike has a noticable smell of gas at start but not while riding or idling at a light.

Going to check the sensor connections on side of bike and in headers to make sure they are clean/tight. My FP3 has since malfunctioned and will not allow me to auto tune to see if the rich condition is something in the initial tune and can be fixed by auto-tuning. With V&H being out of office due to COVID19, my R/A hasn't been shipped yet and I can't get anybody to reply to me on it at the moment. However, I also have a Power Vision with an extra license available to use on the bike. If after I confirm the sensors are clean/tight, going to apply that license to the bike and use the PV for the auto-tune. Just have to brush up on that process since it's been awhile since I've done it. The FP3 is much more convenient w/bluetooth connectivity vs a wire to the PV but at this point, can't wait on V&H any longer and sick of stopping to clear the code all the time.

if anybody has any more thoughts, lemme know.