ok, so very early on it was mentioned with the registered ET and head temps, etc., that perhaps something that may occur over time was that the oil in the passageways upon shutdown that didn't fully drain out could potentially burn and build up thus reducing flow....any builders out there see any indication or evidence of this occurring, or is this just not an issue..guessing no news is good news after two years as we all know if it was noticed it would have gotten some air time here...since so many people run synthetics one would assume their flash point could handle it, but folks like me that run conventional oil who knows..we have had the fan assisted oil coolers on ours so that should at least reduce oil temps before it gets to the cooling passages

edit: daggum it, just hit me, I should have asked that from our service tech when he replaced the heads on wife's 107 a few weeks ago..maybe I'll ask next time I'm down there if anything was noticed

 

MJ what was up with the heads on your wife's 107? Sorry if I missed that in a different thread. That would be the orange trike, right?

 

I could be wrong but I believe the flash point to be above 450f for most oils so I dont see it being a big concern..

 

took it in for excessive puking thru the AC breathers, making a real mess all over the right side...they followed troubleshooting steps from the MOCO and upon disassembly determined the valves had excessive carbon so just instructed and authorized to replace the heads..got updated AC breather breather tubes along with it and after 2000 miles it runs like a champ and no more AC breather messes...for all the bad rep the MOCO gets here they provided solutions under warranty so a win for us..glad we did all SE and bought the ESPs

edit: so pre-emptive strike on the next question..why was there excessive carbon build up in 20,000 miles
tech did say that she should get in the habit of the old 'blow the carbon' out real and wring it out more often..which she has been doing since..we just got back from a 1500 mile road trip and she was riding like Shayna Texter..Atta' Girl!

 

Gotta love happy endings, thanks.

 

Coking shouldn't be a problem until you get into the temps a turbo runs at. So if you turbocharge your bike, yeah, you need a good true synthetic. I ran a turbodiesel for 13 years using Mobil 1 5w-30, and when I trashed the car the turbo was still strong. (Body rusted out)

 

I've done a lot of top ends on air cooled motors in the past. It was common to see an orange / brown build up in the heads when running dino oil even with regular oil changes. Another common area was the undersides of the pistons. Running a full synthetic, most of the times these area are now clean. Steve Cole was probably the first to mention coking and he felt it could be an issue with dino choking the passages. I would guess it's possible with dino but a good real synthetic I'd bet it's not an issue.. I've pretty much switched to M1 15w-50 automotive oil in all my bike's motors. Take the motor apart and the insides around the exhaust valves are nice and clean.

 

You didn't miss it. Your'e not going to see any post from him ******* these piles of ****. **** gobbler.

 

All of this is good info and should be a notice to those that choose to use HD SYN-3 which is not a full synthetic despite what HD claims on the label.

 

I use to do some coking but it had nothing to do with engine temps just lack of brains and being young. Haha