I didn’t make any measurements, and it was slight. I’ve never cared for the ‘Butt Dyno’ comparisons, but that’s all I have to defend myself with. Maybe the next guy can check and prove me wrong.

It sounds ludicrous over .016”, but it was important to me to report everything as I saw it.

 

Well the spacer has an effect. Let's say the travel on the plate is 0.080 (IIRC it's somewhere between 0.080 and 0.090) so when you look at it, it should affect about 20% if the travel. So it will have a noticeable effect.

One thought.

The thing is spacer is not located in a position to add to the spring pressure. It is in a location to fight pressure plate spring pressure. The spacer reduces the lever pull by increasing the friction zone and during 20% more of its travel What you should feel as you pull the lever in is a lighter initial pull the pressure on the damper spring releases pressure, the lever pull becomes the same as with the thinner spacer. Unless something else changed the initial pull is less for longer and the same at the grip. Since the lever pull is lighter during the first portion, it feels heavier for the second.

But..

These clutches have wedge ramps on the pressure plate to assist the springs (slip assist). Since the friction zone is where these ramps can have an effect, drag on the clutch causes wedging, it may add to the pressure plate and offset the damping spring spacer.

Interesting.

One would think that the pull in neutral would be lighter but using the friction zone might make it feel heavier.

I plan on trying the spacer and have a way to measure lever pull. Might be a while as I'll probably do it on the next service (about 1800 miles, couple months).

 

I cut my actuator rod as Peter Quinn's post.
I have over 20,000 miles since and no problem. Being closer to grip makes all the difference in the world in the feel, I can get a good grip not at end of fingers.
Thanks Peter Quinn !!
https://www.hdforums.com/forum/milwa...-lever-14.html #135

2018 Limited

 

I like this idea but where do you put the double sided tape?

 

I used a 3/16 round headed bolt and ground ends to match original rod. This is the first one I made 1 inch long, Too short so I made it 1 and 1/16 long. I was going to cut my original to this size but kept putting it off and 20,000 miles later bolt is working fine. The clutch lever will have free play without tape to take up slack.

 

I installed the new spring seat on my buddy’s ‘18 tonight. Took 45 minutes total and he is really happy with the change.

 

Well, I've gone ahead and compared the older '14-'16 clutch pack (37000118) with the new M8 10 plate clutch pack (37000258). The good news is that the measurements all seem to be exactly the same, leading me to believe that this clutch is indeed compatible with the '14-'16 assist & slip on big twins.

One difference I noticed is that the older clutch pack has 1 steel plate that is completely smooth with no dimples, the newer m8 clutch pack does not have this smooth steel. The thick friction plates on both clutch packs actually share the same stamped part #'s.

Contrary to what someone had said, the M8 10 plate did NOT include a new damper seat.

Next step is to crack the primary open and install! I should have an update sometime next week.

 

I did the "295" spring seat on my '17 last week.

Made a big difference for me, much more control.

 

Install went smoothly. Everything is compatible with '14-'16 assist & slip clutches! Damper seat definitely makes a difference in clutch engagement location. Saved me from trying to bend my stock lever or buy an overpriced adjustable!!! Oh, and now I have the high-capacity 10 plate clutch!

THANK YOU!!!!!

 

Has anyone done a video of the installation of the new spring seat? Thanks