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Yeah that's about what I figured too....that my service mgr didn't know what he was taking about.

This is a big Houston dealership and they had not even heard of the AIM actuator nor the 2019 spring seat differences or benefits. I just got some blank stares when I mentioned it. I tried to work the AIM into the recall, and like others...no go.

I am really excited to get this thing installed I suppose my main concern is that dont have a dial indicator. Even if I had the indicator I dont know what I'd do about it if I didn't have the proper throw...unless I just kept bleeding.??

Regarding the push bleeding video provided in this thread...I was going to do that. Is conventional bleeding required after that?

Thanks,

 

Really depends on how meticulous you are with the push bleeding. I did it that way and still had a tiny amount of bubbles at the end. The push bleed with the needle was so fast in comparison to conventional method. Takes 2 people to do it just to make sure you do not overflow.

 

When installing my AIM Light Force I swapped the bleeder screw out for a Goodridge Speed Bleeder valve. M7x1 (SB7100). Super easy to use compared to the last time I bled my clutch when replacing the handlebars last year.

 

Just did mine yesterday. Super easy and took 90 minutes start to finish. Best part is the wide friction zone.

Nice piece



Three cap screws and the tube connection and done.



Fat rod installed 150 miles ago. Point looks a little worn down.



New unit installed.



Vacuum bleeder hooked up and bled in a couple minutes.



Inside of old unit. Looks to be a slight indent started from pushrod. Think I will replace with newer version.

 

BoneGlide
I live in Houston. If you need help installing the AIM, I would glad to assist. Would like to see how it is done,

 

I got mine installed today and although I haven't ridden it yet, the clutch feels like super nice.

I started it while on the lift, ran it up to 6th and back down to an easy neutral and the mechanics all feel good. Exact same rear wheel spin in the air on cold motor as before. Stops after warm up.


The actuator went on tidy without a hitch and then I caused myself some grief by blowing the bleed.

Actuator was on and all buttoned up and because I had not broken the seal at the master cyl I had lost very little fluid and on my way to pulling this off with a small amount of bleeding. I proceeded to remove the master lid only to discover allot of fluid on the ground and in pan. Although I had not touched the bleed valve nor did I check that it was tight. Arg! Do not make that mistake, be sure your bleeder valve is tight before breaking the seal at the master cylinder.


I proceeded to lose the bleed with air now in the very small amount of master cyl capacity and had to start from scratch. After filling master and trying a conventional bleed many times and getting nowhere, I whipped out the trusty Harbor Freight air compressor bleeder which worked like a charm. It drew the fluid through top to bottom and we finished with a conventional bleed. I used the HD Platinum fluid.

I started the hydraulic line before I mounted the actuator to the trans and feel like that helped out it was super easy. Yes I used Teflon tape, old habits die hard.

Tomorrow go for ride.

 

Harbor Freight air bleeder

 

i have the 1st version and i am afraid i am going to be short when i look at the pics of the second version being hooked up. I also raised my bars to 14's and needed to pull a bit so wonder if there is any left on the back end to hook it up, will be choked if not.

 

Some really nice pix you have there! Thanks for taking the time to do that.

Once you ride it you will be preaching the AIM like the rest LOL.

Such a small change makes such a HUGE difference!

 

It won't be an issue. The only change is you need to bend the supply line a little bit - the new version took out that tweak. I was an early adopter of the first version - it won't affect your bars.