Extended Lines needed w/WO577 bars ?
 

Just can't find a straight answer on this question... For those of you that put WO577's (12.5") on an M8 Ultra or SG, did you have to get extended Brake and Clutch lines? I'm 99% positive that the electrical has to be extended because I have WO578 now and stock is snug. If you had to replace the lines, specifically the brake, were you able to bleed it enough to ride it to the dealer for the ABS module bleed procedure?
Thanks!

I had 577s on my previous Limited. It bought extended control wires (canbus) but for the brake/clutch I was able to release the hydraulic line holder (plastic block thing) on the right side of the neck to get the slack needed.
I mean it was tight - real tight. It worked fine, but long term I recommend adding extended lines.

As far as air going through the ABS module, just reverse bleed the line by pushing fluid up from the brake calipers with a syringe full of brake fluid.
Do this to push all air bubbles up and out through the brake master cylinder and once satisfied, perform a normal brake line flush after - going down as typical.
If you do it this way you won't even have to visit the dealer. You could though, you know, just to be safe etc. Just an option... Done it many times.

Put 12" LA Chopper Twin Peak bars on my 17 SG myself. I did not have to extend brake or clutch lines.

They should fit just fine.

I put 14" Paul Yaffe bars on my 2017 with stock cables / lines on my M8 Ultra.

Just an FYI... I got the bars in yesterday and started the installation. I can say with 100% certainty that the wiring has to be extended to use these bars. The TBW is long enough though. The wires for heated grips have to be extended as well. And speaking of Heated grips, the left one is an absolute PITA to install. I knew from experience that the left side of the bar needs about 3/8" cut off to allow the grip to fit without a gap. Also, the inner diameter of that side needs honed out to allow it to slide on. Last time, I used a brake cylinder honing tool attached to a drill and it worked but for some reason, it's a very slow go this time around. After screwing around for a couple hours, it still isn't going on. I'll get it on there eventually. As far as the brake and clutch lines go, if the stock ones would work, they'd probably be tighter than a gnats ass stretched over a rain barrel. I have extended ones on the way but before I put them on, I'll try the stock ones just to verify. I highly suggest to anyone that has heated grips and want to keep them to not use these bars or the WO578's (unless they were free and you have access to a machine shop that would hone the left side for free)...

I wanted to follow up on my initial questions and provide my own answers... Maybe this will help somebody someday. Without a doubt, the clutch and Brake line needs extended. I ordered them from HCC for 12-14" handlebars. They worked perfect. There are a couple rubber things on the factory line used to secure it in one clamp and provide protection under the side cover that don't come with the HCC line. I carefully cut them off the factory line and installed them on the new one. I back bled both lines per HCC youtube video on the subject and it worked out great. No need to go to the dealership. Taking the inner fairing off made installing these lines a lot easier. Removing the inner fairing is pretty straight forward. Also, need to loosen the exhaust system up to get the transmission side cover off..
https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.hdf...8c3c77c1f.jpeg
This is a pic of how much of the wires come out of the bars. I used HD's extensions and was able to plug everything in stock configuration. I didn't have to extend the wires for the heated grips. I don't know why I thought I had to... just over thinking I guess. TGS sensor wires are plenty long enough.
https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.hdf...c0b3f05ac.jpeg
The end result. Rode about 175 miles and they are great... Very comfortable.
https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.hdf...749deb0be.jpeg