You may want to check this out before putting more miles on your build.

https://university.fuelmotousa.com/h...-myths-truths-

 

I follow this guy http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm.

Ran them in like that long before I'd even heard of him too.
Trainwreck keep us posted it should be a good'un.

 

I followed that guy's suggestions when I broke in my 107 build a few years ago. Over 10,000 miles on the build and never burned a drop of oil.

 

 

 

I started using his break in process on my 2016 Roadster as well as on my Fat Bob. I followed the traditional break in on my 2012 48 and when comparing the performance of that bike and the 16 Roadster, the Roadster performed noticably better. I won't break in an engine any other way now.

 

A new bike should be broken in the same way. But most people are too impatient. They don't even want to follow the recommendations for breaking it in.

 

There are lots of ways to break in an engine. The one thing that gets skipped in most of these discussions is how was the engine assembled! You could use the same break in, on different assembled engines and come up with different results. If they were all assembled the same, it would be much different. As for riding an untuned bike and hurting the engine.......... yes, its possible but if you have a late model fuel injected engine its highly unlikely, unless the assemble of the engine was not so good. The ECM will start adjusting the fuel and timing as soon as the engine warms up. So while it may not be the best possible fuel mixture and timing, if you use a little common sense you will be fine. The entire idea of engine break in is to allow the parts to run in and stay lucubrated. A few short warmup cycles is very important on an air cooled engine. After that you want to run the engine under load to help get the rings seated. With today's rings and cylinder finishes it is nothing like the old days where it takes several hours of running to get the rings seated.

 

Thank you Steve. Do you agree with running hard with full acceleration and decal while under load and after sufficiently warmed up? According to this theory or practice, of which I think to be a good one, the run in recommendation from the manufacturer does not allow sufficient gas pressure on the rings to properly seat and wear them in along the full circumference.

 

Running hard is not easy to define as it may mean one thing to you and something else to me. So what needs to happen is keep the engine under load then remove the load for a period. No need to go WOT to do it. On a Dyno it's easy to control these things but on the street I like to use a longer hill. Keep the bike accelerating as you go up the hill then let it decel down the other side. The decel puts the lubrication back on the cylinder walls and pistons while the load up the hill pushes harder on the rings to seat them. You DONOT want to run down the highway at steady speed.