Milwaukee Eight (M8) 2017 and up M8 Air and Liquid Cooled discussion
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Old Jan 1, 2019 | 12:18 PM
  #11  
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Originally Posted by purpledeuce
Admittedly I’m not the smartest guy around, but I don’t think it’s good to rev your motor to 3-3.5 while in neutral
Well you're just no fun at all. Lol
 
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Old Jan 1, 2019 | 12:47 PM
  #12  
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Originally Posted by sixguns
Well you're just no fun at all. Lol
lol I’m an old fuddy duddy
 
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Old Jan 2, 2019 | 01:42 AM
  #13  
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I tore into it today and found nothing. Checked slips heat shields mounts...nada. popped off cam cover to go a little deeper in tomorrow. Could a bad lifter of pushrod cause this? The only thing that changed was the ss cam plate and oil pump that I installed. I did it per instructions and rotated the wheel a dozen times before putting the cover back on just to check for any binding. I used the ss quickee rods and adjusted them 4 turns (32tpi) according to instructions. The oil that came out the cam chest was metal free...really stumped. The bike was really smooth before I replaced the pump and plate.
 
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Old Jan 2, 2019 | 02:05 AM
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"The bike was really smooth before i replaced the pump & plate"
So it ran smooth for you to conclude this as 117/22x done before?

Did you do this last of all separate to rest of build?

if so with all simple checks mentioned, i would prob strip pump/plate out to check over & fit stock pump( with plate upgrade of course) back in, to test
 
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Old Jan 2, 2019 | 05:49 AM
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Originally Posted by yobtaf103
"The bike was really smooth before i replaced the pump & plate"
So it ran smooth for you to conclude this as 117/22x done before?

Did you do this last of all separate to rest of build?

if so with all simple checks mentioned, i would prob strip pump/plate out to check over & fit stock pump( with plate upgrade of course) back in, to test
yes 117 and 22x was done about 3k ago. I believe you are correct. Putting the stock set up back in is the last test to do.
 
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Old Jan 2, 2019 | 07:01 AM
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Originally Posted by Timberjkd
yes 117 and 22x was done about 3k ago. I believe you are correct. Putting the stock set up back in is the last test to do.
As far as the S&S set up goes, (just fitted mine ) had to make sure one of the gears put in facing the correct way, as per their instructions

just me but with 4 oil pump bolts barely nipped after plate tightened, i prefer to get someone to spin motor via rear wheel as quick as poss while i tighten oil pump bolts in sequence
 

Last edited by yobtaf103; Jan 2, 2019 at 07:10 AM.
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Old Jan 2, 2019 | 07:45 AM
  #17  
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Originally Posted by yobtaf103
As far as the S&S set up goes, (just fitted mine ) had to make sure one of the gears put in facing the correct way, as per their instructions

just me but with 4 oil pump bolts barely nipped after plate tightened, i prefer to get someone to spin motor via rear wheel as quick as poss while i tighten oil pump bolts in sequence
yeah I spun it via rear wheel a bunch but I was alone so after I saw that everything was free I tightened it down. I spoke with s&s about that one year thinking "crap" did I? And the tech there said you really cant put it in wrong bc it will not tighten and if you did somehow get it locked down the gear would break and seize the motor. So I'm pretty sure I'm good on that part. Apparently the relief cut won't allow you to fit the pump in deep enough to install the plate correctly.
 
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Old Jan 2, 2019 | 09:34 AM
  #18  
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I would say for a sanity check, you could swap in the original pump to see if that solves it.

Note that it is possible to R&R the plate without removing the pushrods/lifters. Check around for instructions. I am not advocating one way or the other, just pointing out it is possible and I've seen it done. There are pictures and instructions around somewhere. You remove the plate, leaving the cam in place supported by the inner bearing.
 

Last edited by VDeuce; Jan 2, 2019 at 09:35 AM.
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Old Jan 2, 2019 | 10:47 AM
  #19  
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Rule of thumb:
I your bike was fine before the pump/plate change your problem will, more than likely, be found in the cam chest or other items R&R’d during the work done.
Bob
 
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Old Jan 2, 2019 | 12:07 PM
  #20  
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Originally Posted by VDeuce
I would say for a sanity check, you could swap in the original pump to see if that solves it.

Note that it is possible to R&R the plate without removing the pushrods/lifters. Check around for instructions. I am not advocating one way or the other, just pointing out it is possible and I've seen it done. There are pictures and instructions around somewhere. You remove the plate, leaving the cam in place supported by the inner bearing.
Originally Posted by FLTRI17
Rule of thumb:
I your bike was fine before the pump/plate change your problem will, more than likely, be found in the cam chest or other items R&R’d during the work done.
Bob
Yea going to go deeper tonight/tomorrow to see whats up in there. I hope its nothing catostrophic (gouged, scored, metal). On a good note no metal chips in the cam oil that came out.
I will report back as soon as I figure it out. Thanks.
 
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