This can be done by just removing your derby cover. If you are going to be doing your own repairs. You should invest in a service manual. Boardtracker, surdyke, your dealership or another online source. Prices may vary.

 

I've got one, just wasn't sure of the name of the actual part as most threads just refer to it as that rod and so on. Thanks though, and good to know. So it's the clutch rod then? I plan to do my own 5k service in spring and have to replace the entire side case cause it was damaged when I got the bike, so thin one will go on, drain fluid, new derby cover (smaller diameter one FYI) and gaskets etc. Be a good time to do this as well.

 

I replied to your question on how easy/what is involved in changing the clutch push rod in the other thread mate. To save you finding it........

“Remove the derby cover and snap ring, pull the release bearing plate and then the stock rod slides straight out, slide new rod in and reinstall. Requires snap ring pliers and T27 wrench”

It’s so easy I can do it lol.

 

 

You have a softail, the problem with fluid transfer does not include softails because they don't have the hydraulic clutch, the recall was also for bikes with a hyd clutch, don't go looking for problems you don't have!

 

 

If your doing the fat Clutch rod you should also obtain a new snap ring, All it takes is to be overzealous with the pliers once and the snap is gone, Besides they are not meant for multiple removals and installs. I am also glad to report the replacement Rod I received was the correct length and worked fine for the 60 miles I road today. Good Times!

 

That’s great to hear six ride on man.

 

Mine showed up today, 15-1/4" long. Ordered the AIM Light Force Clutch Slave Cylinder II today, figured what the heck.