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Broken Bolts on Anti-Rotation Device

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  #11  
Old 01-31-2019, 07:47 PM
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Originally Posted by Ridetothehill
What year is your M8?
Late 2017
 
  #12  
Old 02-01-2019, 04:33 AM
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I really thought I was in the clear with this one. The holes tapped nicely; however, they are not perfectly straight and I must have been slightly off center. One tappets cuff is too tight and I can't get the required .002 clearance and the other one won't allow the tappet through. It needs to come forward a bit. My thought was to over drill the mounting hole on the S&S cuff. This would allow the side to side play to get my feeler gauge between tappet and cuff, then tighten bolts.
 
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Old 02-01-2019, 04:41 AM
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Originally Posted by Ridetothehill
My thought was to over drill the mounting hole on the S&S cuff.
If you go this route, will the bolt head be square on top of the cuff? I think your options are limited.
 
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Old 02-01-2019, 05:29 AM
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Originally Posted by CSMHOG

If you go this route, will the bolt head be square on top of the cuff? I think your options are limited.
No, it won't be exactly square. Pretty close; but, not exact. This is not a moving part and it will have minimal to no load on it. It will NEVER be touched again! However, this condition of not being exactly square does bother me. I would like to hope that with plenty of red locktite an proper torque, nothing will move; however, I sure do agree with you that my options are limited. I'm just wondering if they are limited down to just the one choice of replacing the case. I'm kind of thinking so.
 
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Old 02-01-2019, 05:33 AM
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Originally Posted by $tonecold


Is there enough “meat” to drill them and install helicoils?
Yes, there is plenty of meat around that area. I'm not sure a helicoil would work here as it would leave me in the same location. One of the holes needs to move slightly.
 
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Old 02-01-2019, 05:45 AM
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Originally Posted by Ridetothehill
No, it won't be exactly square. Pretty close; but, not exact. This is not a moving part and it will have minimal to no load on it. It will NEVER be touched again! However, this condition of not being exactly square does bother me. I would like to hope that with plenty of red locktite an proper torque, nothing will move; however, I sure do agree with you that my options are limited. I'm just wondering if they are limited down to just the one choice of replacing the case. I'm kind of thinking so.
Take your bike to a machining shop and get them to measure the bolts angle and have them reshape the top of the cuff so that the bolts face will meet square with the cuff. I’m very familiar with the lifter block area and the S&S cuffs. Mine removed without issues and so have many more I’ve worked on. Hope you get yours worked out. Good luck.
 
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Old 02-01-2019, 05:46 AM
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Search here and Google. I remember seeing a few threads on this and from what I remember the only recourse was to get new cases
 
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  #18  
Old 02-01-2019, 06:39 AM
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Originally Posted by CSMHOG

Take your bike to a machining shop and get them to measure the bolts angle and have them reshape the top of the cuff so that the bolts face will meet square with the cuff. I’m very familiar with the lifter block area and the S&S cuffs. Mine removed without issues and so have many more I’ve worked on. Hope you get yours worked out. Good luck.
I agree with taking your bike to a machinist or you may be able to do it yourself if you have the equipment. Basically what will need to done is to build a jig, secured to the tappet cover bolts, that will guide the bit straight as the holes for the helicoils are drilled. The helicoil uses an oversize bit so it should be able to do quite a bit of clean up for you. I myself would opt for the machinist doing it as I don't have a drill press or the time. You may have both. It will be less money and easier than replacing the cases, but it may be a little more than having a machinist extract the bolts in the first place would have been. If this doesn't work I guess it's new cases and 124" here we come!
 
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  #19  
Old 02-01-2019, 07:03 AM
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Originally Posted by CSMHOG

Take your bike to a machining shop and get them to measure the bolts angle and have them reshape the top of the cuff so that the bolts face will meet square with the cuff. I’m very familiar with the lifter block area and the S&S cuffs. Mine removed without issues and so have many more I’ve worked on. Hope you get yours worked out. Good luck.
This sounds very doable. It is exactly the solution I was trying to get at. Thank you for your experience and input.
 
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Old 02-01-2019, 07:11 AM
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Originally Posted by $tonecold
I agree with taking your bike to a machinist or you may be able to do it yourself if you have the equipment. Basically what will need to done is to build a jig, secured to the tappet cover bolts, that will guide the bit straight as the holes for the helicoils are drilled. The helicoil uses an oversize bit so it should be able to do quite a bit of clean up for you. I myself would opt for the machinist doing it as I don't have a drill press or the time. You may have both. It will be less money and easier than replacing the cases, but it may be a little more than having a machinist extract the bolts in the first place would have been. If this doesn't work I guess it's new cases and 124" here we come!
If cutting an angle on the tappet cuffs with milling machine doesn't work, I am going with new cases. And yes, 124" HERE WE COME. If I am torn down to that level, it makes complete sense to reinstall the piston and jugs with 124". I'm not sure about doing anything with the heads, since they are such a good design to begin with. May be just a little clean-up porting with HPI 61 mm throttle body and feuling's 6.2 injectors. Now This stops being the build I set out to put together and I would have to think about a cam other than the M462 or keep stock springs and stick with it.
 


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