There have been many threads on the transmission oil migration issue, with the potential fix of installing a modified “fat flat” clutch rod. But, I couldn’t find any reference to the remove/replace procedure. So, attached is the procedure from the FSM. But, I have a few questions:
- in reference to step #1, to close the clutch master cylinder fluid port....what/where is that?
- I’m a spec kind of guy. In reference to step 1.b, to put a cable strap eyelet between the lever and housing. How much of a gap is requjred?
- after replacing the rod, has anyone done the “Measure Release Plate Movement” procedure? Is it really necessary?
There have been many threads on the transmission oil migration issue, with the potential fix of installing a modified “fat flat” clutch rod. But, I couldn’t find any reference to the remove/replace procedure. So, attached is the procedure from the FSM. But, I have a few questions:
- in reference to step #1, to close the clutch master cylinder fluid port....what/where is that? Steps 1a and 1b are telling you how to close the port - it is within the lever/reservoir assembly.
- I’m a spec kind of guy. In reference to step 1.b, to put a cable strap eyelet between the lever and housing. How much of a gap is requjred? The width of a cable strap eyelet. Smartassness aside, I don't know.
- after replacing the rod, has anyone done the “Measure Release Plate Movement” procedure? Is it really necessary?
Great video. I changed my clutch rod this afternoon and it took me longer to get my tools than do the job. One thing I didn't see or hear mentioned is to replace the internal retaining ring. It's part number 37000169 and is $10.99. Expensive, yes, but when you look at how critical that retaining ring is to the proper function of your clutch it's worth replacing. I did a fit test and when I reused the original retaining ring it didn't seat as well as a new ring. I'm not sure I'd trust reusing the ring.
BREAK...
On a separate note, I did not have any noticeable transfer. I replaced the clutch rod as a preemptive measure. If anyone has a rod that has come from a known transferring bike, I can send you my rod to compare and see if the difference is in the rods.
Great video. I changed my clutch rod this afternoon and it took me longer to get my tools than do the job. One thing I didn't see or hear mentioned is to replace the internal retaining ring. It's part number 37000169 and is $10.99. Expensive, yes, but when you look at how critical that retaining ring is to the proper function of your clutch it's worth replacing. I did a fit test and when I reused the original retaining ring it didn't seat as well as a new ring. I'm not sure I'd trust reusing the ring.
BREAK...
On a separate note, I did not have any noticeable transfer. I replaced the clutch rod as a preemptive measure. If anyone has a rod that has come from a known transferring bike, I can send you my rod to compare and see if the difference is in the rods.
There is a front and back to the retaining rings - make sure you face it the correct direction so it seats properly.
03-11-2019, 12:58 PM
M8 Clutch Rod Replacement Procedure
