Slow cranking FLHXS
#31
#32
Slow cranking starter: Not always a dead battery?
Slow cranking starter: Not always a dead battery?
I had the problem on my 2016 FKHTK, here are my findings and solution:
1 - To make a correct battery diagnostic, voltage must be measured from the battery poles, not the cables.
Drill two small pin-holes through the battery cover, just over the battery pole (See voltmeter photo).
Voltage while slow cranking kept over 9 Volts on mine, while fewer than 5 Volts on main fuse.
2 - Voltage lost appears to be at battery connectors, as led does not stand contact too well over time.
To help the cable to capture additionnal current throught the connector screw by the top, added on top of the battery pole
a strong 3/32 thick, 5/8 in diam. steel washer (See battery top photo and insert).
I further use a short steel pipe (shown free standing on the right connector) to slightly hammer down the washer while screwing.
Starting condition was then back to normal - No battery change, and no further radio or GPS reset!
3 - A collateral comment (may not apply to all?): Every time I used « engine compression » from 3th to 2th, and 1st,
I noticed the back tire sliding briefly on the road, and wearing square (due to excessive engine friction?).
I then move the engine from SAE 20-50 oil to diesel ultra-high temperature SAE 15-40 (cool Québec), which lower the engine
friction and now save my back tire (and my starter and battery as well)!
On highway, full tank autonomy went from 380 to about 430 km, a 15 % fuel economy (not a scientific test).
However, I still have no data on the engine long term condition, but I assume the risk and I enjoy the time being!
Please, if you have the problem, test the battery properly first, then get advice on your engine internal friction.
Le Québec sous la neige vous salut, Gilles
I had the problem on my 2016 FKHTK, here are my findings and solution:
1 - To make a correct battery diagnostic, voltage must be measured from the battery poles, not the cables.
Drill two small pin-holes through the battery cover, just over the battery pole (See voltmeter photo).
Voltage while slow cranking kept over 9 Volts on mine, while fewer than 5 Volts on main fuse.
2 - Voltage lost appears to be at battery connectors, as led does not stand contact too well over time.
To help the cable to capture additionnal current throught the connector screw by the top, added on top of the battery pole
a strong 3/32 thick, 5/8 in diam. steel washer (See battery top photo and insert).
I further use a short steel pipe (shown free standing on the right connector) to slightly hammer down the washer while screwing.
Starting condition was then back to normal - No battery change, and no further radio or GPS reset!
3 - A collateral comment (may not apply to all?): Every time I used « engine compression » from 3th to 2th, and 1st,
I noticed the back tire sliding briefly on the road, and wearing square (due to excessive engine friction?).
I then move the engine from SAE 20-50 oil to diesel ultra-high temperature SAE 15-40 (cool Québec), which lower the engine
friction and now save my back tire (and my starter and battery as well)!
On highway, full tank autonomy went from 380 to about 430 km, a 15 % fuel economy (not a scientific test).
However, I still have no data on the engine long term condition, but I assume the risk and I enjoy the time being!
Please, if you have the problem, test the battery properly first, then get advice on your engine internal friction.
Le Québec sous la neige vous salut, Gilles
#33
My thoughts - it is simply cold outside. Unless your bike is in a heated garage, I suspect you may find some slow starts (I do)
My bike is in the garage - I don't start it over the winter. New battery was installed this spring -all ran well. Cranked the bike today to put it in the trailer (it was on tender). Bike was slow to crank - but, it did.
My bike is in the garage - I don't start it over the winter. New battery was installed this spring -all ran well. Cranked the bike today to put it in the trailer (it was on tender). Bike was slow to crank - but, it did.
#35
Finally, if it does not improved sufficiently, the battery likely needs distilled water. Sealled battery are not so sealled due to hiden vent. How to add water to sealled AGM battery required to pup-up some caps, not for everyone to try. However, we found that this could extend the battery « good live » for a couple seasons... Good luck.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post