EXACTLY what I did, and I was kind of surprised on the wheel, I really like it. Curved polished edges, clear coated. Looks great. I didn't really care for an all polished wheel up front with the various fancy "Spokes" anyway.. so it's a win win for me. Stock rotors, my cost. About 2800.00 not with paint. Paint was 259 for a pint from Colorrite.com. (Most any paint place can match it it seems though) I had a guy from my Church who owns a body shop look at my job, (tour pack too) and he said he'd matched Amber Whisky before,, with great success.) May be cheaper than colorrite.

 

Not sure what year you are, he only offered the 180x18 for mine, you wheel looks like it goes to the edge of the fender like mine does. I don't know why you'd want a 20 or 21,,, then you're back to having only a small sidewall and feeling every dent or crack in the road. Mine rides so much smoother than the stock tire did.

 

I CAN'T TAKE IT ANY MORE!
You guys are killing me with all this awesomeness. So I am actively searching out a 2009-up chrome laced profile rear wheel to lace to my front hub. That and a Native Customs conversion fender, and I'm rolling FAT. Damn those bikes look nice.

 

I'm not sure it'll fit between the legs, the ones I got from Paul have a machined section out of them on the inside. I hope you can do it on the "Cheap" but really, wonder if you can. Also the mounts on the leg for the fender are farther outboard on each side too. Plus the cowbells are notched for suspension travel... more to it than a fender and wheel. (not that I think you're an idiot or anything,, just want you to "be informed" Good luck on what ever you do!

 

I think that's a great idea! I believe that wheel is only 5" wide so I would guess it would fit. That plus the NCB cowbells and fender and I think you're golden. The 2013 and older bikes don't require the fork lowers to be machined like the Rushmores. Interested in how this works for u.

 

Thanks for the input. But like Jerry L said, that really IS all there is to it on my year bike. In fact, depending on my mood, I will likely just modify my current cowbells, and have almost nothing invested in the project (as I am also a painter/bodyman). That being said, it's never been a matter of doing it on the cheap, but just "doing it". And I have been eagerly waiting for enough people to actually do it first, and get some real world feedback, before I pulled the trigger. My only delay was in not wanting to invest the time, and wind up with a lousy result. But at this point, it seems ALL the feedback (yours included) has been nothing short of spectacular. And that's what I have been waiting to hear. Thanks to all. This has been an outstanding thread!

 

I believe the 13 and lower don't require lowers to be machined IF you do the new triple tree's. (Wider leg spacing top to bottom) That is NOT offered on the Rushmore's. So then it's more than just putting a fender and wheel in there. My wheel is 5.5" wide FYI. The 180 may mount on a 5", not sure.

 

Stop...lol.
No they DON'T! They make a conversion kit, or just a fender that allows you to NOT TOUCH THE TRIPLE TREE'S, and still bolt on a 180.

Looksy here...

https://www.nativecustombaggers.com/...-tire-kit.html

 

2015! I wouldn't change a thing, I like my chunky tire.

 

Ok, I didn't elaborate, for 13 and back you had either option I know. My point was for 14 and up the do NOT offer the triple tree part. I would have guessed that without the triple tree you have to change fork lowers, but that doesn't read like it.... I don't know then. Never paid much attention since I only had one option.