I just replaced the brake fluid on my 15 Limited. I know the dealer uses the Digitial Tech thingy or whatever it's called to flush out the HCU. Since I am doing this myself, I am asking how many times should I activate the ABS to get the new fluid in and old fluid out of the HCU? I am planning on changing the brake fluid again after the HCU is flushed out. I sleep a lot better when I can avoid going to the dealer for anything.

 

I sleep a whole lot better knowing it is done right and I can reply on it when needed. One of those things I am not going to chance.

 

I am not sure this can be done with certainty without the hand held HD tech tool. Not the best way to find out if your ABS fires sometime in the future releasing an air pocket. At best a scare at worst a bad accident. The service manual warns of the need to use the tool.

 

The only way to be sure it's done right is to educate yourself and do it yourself. I am not overly impressed with the quality of work done by most auto/motorcycle "professionals" these days. The OP is on the right track IMO.

 

You've done a good thing just changing what you have. Some riders never flush their brake fluid. I think if you ride it a few weeks and make a point of activating the ABS a few times then flush it again you should be fine. I don't know if Harleys have this problem but I have seen BMW ABS systems seize up from disuse. It pays to cycle the system from time to time.

 

Doing it yourself is the ONLY way to be sure it was done right - or done at all, for that matter.

No confidence at all in dealership "techs", especially where the MOCO's concerned!

I believe that there's a hand-held gadget available online that's the same as the one the dealerships use.

 

https://www.google.com/aclk?sa=l&ai=...0DgiEAQ&adurl=

I just saw this and am wondering if it would work to cycle the module or if its just a code reader which to me would be useless and expensive.

Would be nice if someone would make a knock off tool, I too don't trust dealer bike washers to work on my bike ( or wash it either )

 

If you don't introduce air into the lines, you don't need to use the Digital Tech thingy to flush the brake fluid. It says as much in my service manual.

 

If you insist on doing this.....................

Attack the problem from the other end. Once your old fluid is flushed and changed, refill the master cylinder and bleed as much as you can the old fashioned way from the right hand caliper side.

Then, use a 2Ml syringe or larger, fill the syringe with brake fluid. Insert the end of the syringe into the bleeder nipple and slightly loosen the bleeder valve.

Now squeeze the brake fluid from the syringe into the bleeder valve while someone up top watches the air bubbles come up to the master cylinder. Repeat this cycle until no more air is rising up through the master cylinder. You may have to suction excess brake fluid out of the MC depending on how many cycles it takes to get all the air out.

Of course there are two simpler methods;

1. Take it to the dealer after you've done the initial flush, refill and bleed and let them hook it up to the DT and properly cycle and bleed the ABS module.

2. While you're changing your brake fluid make sure that you never let the master cylinder brake fluid level drain down to the point that the system is sucking air.

 

Ok. This may sound stupid. But wondering if it would work. Put bike on jack. Flush system like normal. Now take about 30 feet of string place it taped onto center of rear tire rolling tire and wind up backwards taping every so often to keep it centered to make it like a pull (recoil start like) from bottom of tire. Turn ignition on. Get someone to press front brake as you open bleeder. Get a kid to run straight back pulling the string and spinning the rear tire. The system recognizes the rear tire spinning and front not spinning then abs kicks in pumping. Wondering if this would work.