Check out on different posts here. The friction point doesn't change but I exchanged my stock lever for a lever that was heat bent to bring the friction point closer. With exchange it was about $50. Takes 2 minutes to change. Im love it. PM me if you want me to dig deeper for the vendor.

 

Kinda agree here, the more you ride it, it becomes more natural

 

The lever feels different at first slightly different shape. Once in stalled you will likely set it between 2-4. Some have said on 2 they have issues starting in gear. Mine is set on 3. These have been used on sport bikes with hyd clutches for years The Oberon is pricey due to they are the only ones that make one to fit 2017 and up. Match that with the extend brake pedal and a world of difference when you are riding in tight places at a crawl. We often ride in places 900 pound plus touring bikes were not meant to go.
Now the clutch starts to engage a lot closer to the grip rather than after you are darn near all the way out. I had RSD ones on my 2016 they used a different system but worked well also.
Many seem to confuse reach with travel , the adjustable lever is meant to mover the clutch engagement point. However it may help some with reach.

 

llllllllll

 

I've asked this on other threads and never really got an answer. Let's say with the stock lever the distance from the resting position to the bar is (let's use) 2". So you need a 2" pull to fully disengage the clutch. With the Oberon if you adjust the lever closer, let's use 1 1/2" doesn't that mean that the clutch will not fully disengage, might be short by 1/2"? The travel from resting position to the bar would be less. Wouldn't that cause premature clutch wear? One clue might be your statement that there are some claims about the bike not starting in gear when the lever is set to position #2. I'd like to get an adjustable lever but this question nags at me...thanks!

 

The stock lever starts to disengage the clutch as soon as you pull it and uses about half of the total travel to work the clutch, the rest of the travel is just free travel. The adjustable lever allows you to take up the free travel and make better use of your work.
This is the second bike where I'm using the Oberon levers. I don't like the working part of the lever being so far out, I used to adjust cable levers with a large gap to eliminate the problem but with hydraulic you need an adjustable lever. Lots of people use them because they work.
PS: A side benefit to the Oberon is the lever blade is moved out a bit so you get better leverage and lighter clutch pull.

 

Noticed in the above pictures: The Oberon lever appears to have a significantly smaller area for full hand contact. I wonder if it would be comfortable with gloved xxl hands like mine.

 

No look at it. The level unlike one someone bent the lever has a pivot point. To the clutch it has never moved .
When you adjust the dial it just changes the pivot point.
When you get to set 2 the engage meant point has been moved a lot some have reported not having enough travel to activate the N lock switch.
This has nothing to do with the clutch it's self. This not the first bike I have had adjustable levers on.

 

My hands are average size and I don't have an issue with blade size, although all my fingers won't fit on the blade. I read every Oberon thread I come across on the forum and don't remember this being an issue. Maybe it's because with the hand position being further away from the fulcrum they have easier clutch and brake pull.

 

As I think about it, lots of us aren't using 4 fingers on the clutch anyway. I'm often a 3-fingers clutch guy.