Handlebar Replacement 2014 FLHTK
#11
I talked to my local Dealer and to install 12 inch bars was over $1000.00 just for installation and longer brake and clutch cables. They won't reroute the stock cables they say they have to replace them. So throw in the cost of the bars, grips and poly risers at the Dealer the total would be close to $1600.00. Ouch! no way I'll do them myself..
#12
Are we kidding? 1000 in labor?? Screw your dealer, theyre a bunch of money gouging pieces of sh×t. Depending on the bar you choose, putting bars on ranks at about a 2 on a scale 1-5, 5 being the hardest. The only reason its any harder then mounting highway pegs is the time involved and fishing wires. You dont have to take any connectors apart, nothing needs extended depending on height, its 100% bolt on. Id never done a set on a batwing bike and it took me about 5hrs and most of that was fishing the wires through the bars. I couldve had the whole swap done in about 2hrs if it werent for my poor bar choice.
#13
#14
I changed bars on my '16 Ultra Limited...
It was easy with the canbus plug & play wire extensions (Namz #NHCX-CB14), and I removed the outer fairing, then just tilted the inner fairing forward.... I had no issues with room...
I had the tank off for something else I did at the same time, but it gave me even more room, and isn't that difficult to remove (easier than removing the inner fairing)...
It was easy with the canbus plug & play wire extensions (Namz #NHCX-CB14), and I removed the outer fairing, then just tilted the inner fairing forward.... I had no issues with room...
I had the tank off for something else I did at the same time, but it gave me even more room, and isn't that difficult to remove (easier than removing the inner fairing)...
The following 3 users liked this post by hattitude:
#15
#16
I talked to my local Dealer and to install 12 inch bars was over $1000.00 just for installation and longer brake and clutch cables. They won't reroute the stock cables they say they have to replace them. So throw in the cost of the bars, grips and poly risers at the Dealer the total would be close to $1600.00. Ouch! no way I'll do them myself..
#17
I did my bars an it was a pain but not "hard". watch the videos.....fyi the biggest pain in the @$$ to me was I went with 1.25" bars an I had "clearance" the inner fairing to clear the bars. Looking back I wonder if I could have just heated the inner up with a heat gun a push the fairing down an remold it to fit the larger diameter bar.
ALSO....inkjet wish I had the jack to throw that fat front on my bike....LOOKS KILLER!
ALSO....inkjet wish I had the jack to throw that fat front on my bike....LOOKS KILLER!
#18
Well I finally got time to get the bars installed I bought the 10 inch KST Mayhem bars but after I got them they didn't look tall enough so I returned them and got the 12 inch Mayhem bars. That took a couple weeks to get that all straightened out.
Ok back to the bar install, the tear down and the re-install with new poly bushings took me about 2 hrs each but getting the wires thru those bars was a Mother. I spent about 3 hrs on the wiring.I had more trouble with the clutch side and the heated grip harness than I did with the throttle side, I ended up running the switch housing wiring 1st then running the heated grip wiring on the clutch side It was a PIA but I just kept telling myself the Dealer wanted a $1000.00 for this job.
A couple of tips I learned along the way. 1. No need and no way to protect the brake switch when removing the entire switch housing. 2. Removing the tank is the only way to go, gives you way more room if you are changing bushings like I did. 3. Use the Factory 47 Youtube video for the cable routing it works great. 4. Tilting the fairing worked great. 5. Make sure you pay special attention to how you take apart and put your plugs back together. 5. Tape that damn green plug so it can't come unplugged.
Now that they are done I love them and can't wait for Summer to get some miles on them.
Ok back to the bar install, the tear down and the re-install with new poly bushings took me about 2 hrs each but getting the wires thru those bars was a Mother. I spent about 3 hrs on the wiring.I had more trouble with the clutch side and the heated grip harness than I did with the throttle side, I ended up running the switch housing wiring 1st then running the heated grip wiring on the clutch side It was a PIA but I just kept telling myself the Dealer wanted a $1000.00 for this job.
A couple of tips I learned along the way. 1. No need and no way to protect the brake switch when removing the entire switch housing. 2. Removing the tank is the only way to go, gives you way more room if you are changing bushings like I did. 3. Use the Factory 47 Youtube video for the cable routing it works great. 4. Tilting the fairing worked great. 5. Make sure you pay special attention to how you take apart and put your plugs back together. 5. Tape that damn green plug so it can't come unplugged.
Now that they are done I love them and can't wait for Summer to get some miles on them.
Last edited by Snowman88; 03-18-2019 at 11:50 AM.
#19
#20
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GalvTexGuy (03-18-2019)