"You're welcome" for the pure power link. Glad you got the info you needed to justify your $200 oil filter.

 

Well, I'll tell ya what. I have two old school mechanics that work on my bike. They probably have at least 80+ years of experience between the two of them on what works and what doesn't work. Besides the fact that they use them on their bikes, many of their customers also use them. Since they are the ones that keep my bike and others running, their word is good enough for me. I will also add that I know of a few others on this forum that use them and some of them are far more technical than I am but like I said earlier, each to their own.

 

I've never heard of a modern engine failure attributed to poor filtration by a brand name disposable oil filter changed every 5K miles.

But, if it makes you feel better...go for it..

 

In my little part of the world, neither have I.

 

Really guys? Have you "ever heard of" engine failure due to worn parts? What do you think "wore out" those part?

Geesh...

Paper oil filters are slowly destroying your engine by failing to remove the dirt particles in the 5-15 micron range that cause 60% of engine wear....

Those are not my words...that's Amsoil talking...think they're full of it too?

http://www.kc-synthetic-oil.com/AMSO...il-filter.html

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A> the $220 filter removes those 5-15 micron particles; and even smaller.

B> At $15 a pop, the Harley filter (which catches SOME 5 micron particles) has tested out to be a 40 micron filter.

C> If I drive 12k miles a year, and do 3k filter changes, that's $60 a year in Harley filters; so in 3.5 years I break even with 42k miles on the bike...from now on it's saving me $60 a year in filter costs. At 82k miles, the filter has paid for itself.

D> I can move the filter to my next bike, or I can easy sell it on ebay and get half my money back or more.

 

Been wanting to get one of those K&P filters for a while. Will get around to it one of these days.

get around to pullin the trigger on that filter yet?

 

You could always buy the filter and send it to be tested.

Southwest Research Institute does filter efficiency testing.
http://www.swri.org/fluid-filter-testing

You could have the oil analysed and get a particle count. Blackstone labs offers the UOA with a particle count for $43.00.

Results from my Sportster, the HD STD is the HD 63796-77A chrome, 63805-80A black filter.
The Mobil1 is the M1MC-131 oil filter that Mobil 1 says is a 99% at 10 micron filter. (I called Mobil 1 filter hotline and asked the actual rating)

Amsoil motorcyle filters for HD provide filtering efficiency of 98.7 percent at 20 microns.

All filters were run 5000 miles.

 

There are two mobile 1'...which is the M1MC-131?

 

well i guess it will give you a warm cozy green feeling, BUT:

my take on them is this, based off experience with offshore industrial engines, you better add in some extra maintenance.
the best way is centrifuge. when you have an engine that costs 500>1000 bucks just for filters, oil companies go for this and the reduced cost in hazard materials. at first, the screens were used but as time marched on, it was evident that they do not do as well as a filter designed for the engine. so to solve that, centrifuges were added to the flay.
one has to look how they work.
the stock media uses a labyrinth to strain the oil and it works by impaction. as particles work they way through the maze, they get trapped and smaller particles pass on. now as the media plugs, it will filter even finer particles till the point of the by-pass opening and unfiltered oil goes through.
the screen can only trap one size particle determined by the mesh, the rest will pass through or build on previous areas of plugged mesh. on a new engine, it is all well and good but as it ages, the need for service increases. i had some old waukesha engines that required cleaning every few days.
we did monitor diff'l pressure and the engine would shut down if it got too high, a lot of screens do not have a by-pass system so make sure yours do. as for as wear, without the centrifuge, it had a marked increase. that said, more frequent oil changes are needed.
now speaking of that, i have a 1974 ch with near 200k miles, they did not have a filter system. about three years ago, i deframed the engine for frame paint. i had a bird in hand so i decided to up the ponies, this was around 150k miles. the cyls had .006 taper so a .010 cleaned it up. the crankpin wear was nill, going by book and not original fit (no idea what the mfg sent out) i estimate in the 10 thousandths range. there were no issues else where either. the point i make is that the engine saw, yep-over-kill, 2k oil changes. now i flog this machine and still do. now to top that off, it saw a wide gamit of oil weights and brands, what ever was handy, but i do prefer series 3 diesel oils.
so for me, i guess, i'll still be using a land fill. if it wasn't so ugly, i would add a spinner or frantz system.

 

Thought about a reusable filter setup for the bike on a remote DK setup but didn't see one that i liked. I think the best one used disposable synthetic elements but the elements cost more than the OEM Harley filters and had potential leak issues due to more o-rings. Filter surface area was much larger though but for a hot air cooled engine i will stick with 3k mile oil and filter changes.