oil change and mileage
#11
10-23-2017, 04:50 PM
Firehawk6, I figured you were just joking around, but in this day and age you never know. I don't do the spark plug thing, but I will do fuel stabilizer. I also park bikes on a large floormat and put a breathable cover on them. Thanks for the advise about acid in old oil. I will change them a warm dry day here soon. Thanks again, PaUltraBob
#12
10-23-2017, 05:06 PM
Seasoned HDF Member
I love sarcasm, sorry if I came across wrong.
Keep in mind there's no reason to go with the Amsoil over the winter. You could just use any quality dino motor oil since the bike will be in storage. No 10w30 though.
Keep in mind there's no reason to go with the Amsoil over the winter. You could just use any quality dino motor oil since the bike will be in storage. No 10w30 though.
#13
10-23-2017, 05:49 PM
Club Member
I also live in PA I ride until it gets below 25°. Don’t ride in rain or snow if I can help it. Get caught now and again like today. Changed my oil today I wouldn’t let it sit in the bike parked for a few months. IMO.
#14
10-23-2017, 08:14 PM
Tourer
I come from the school of change your oil before letting it sit all winter. There's supposedly bad things lurking in the oil that can wreak havoc on your engines internals. Since you average 3k a year why not change it before you put it up for the winter and then you'll be ready to roll in the spring?
#15
10-27-2017, 07:38 AM
Club Member
My most recent owners manual says to change oil at annual or specified service intervals, whichever comes first. So when riding around 3,000 miles per annum, change oil at the end or start of each riding season.
#16
10-28-2017, 11:36 AM
Well I took everyone's advise and changed the oil in both bikes after i put about 15 miles in each to warm the oil up to drain it all out. I also put some Sta-Bil in the gas for a sure start in the spring. The wife washed and waxed them both and now they are ready to be covered up for the winter season. Those of you that can still ride be safe and enjoy the road and the Ride. Thanks,PaUltraBob
#17
10-28-2017, 11:58 AM
Tourer
Interesting read......I live in SW Michigan and typically the bikes are parked from mid November to Mid April.....though on a sunny day I will open the garage and fire them up and have done short rides occasionally in December and January and March.
Oil change will normally get us through the season, then park them and change out the oil in the spring.....the condensation theory.....will have to give this more thought.
Oil change will normally get us through the season, then park them and change out the oil in the spring.....the condensation theory.....will have to give this more thought.
#18
10-30-2017, 10:24 AM
Yeah, but even more important is contaminants in the oil...that's what really matters.
LONG before you "wear out" a good oil, it will be FULL of acids, carbon, water, metal wear particles, etc...that is what wears an engine.
Don't forget the clutch/primary; that will dirty up the oil REAL fast. The transmission can go 5000 easy, but I would not exceed 3000 for the engine/primary.
Most manuals say 5000 miles under "perfect" conditions; then read what they define as "severe" conditions and it probably fits what your bike is experiencing..and with "severe" service, they recommend not running the oil 5000 miles.
Personally, I use Mobile1 15w50 car oil in the engine; with rebates that are often available, the price is ~$4 a quart. Even without a rebate, it's ~$5/quart at Walmart.
In the primary, I run Lucas; which can be found for ~$6 quart.
The oil I drain out is still "good", just dirty. So I run it through a homemade 5 micron filter system and reuse it in my lawn equipment and an old car.
LONG before you "wear out" a good oil, it will be FULL of acids, carbon, water, metal wear particles, etc...that is what wears an engine.
Don't forget the clutch/primary; that will dirty up the oil REAL fast. The transmission can go 5000 easy, but I would not exceed 3000 for the engine/primary.
Most manuals say 5000 miles under "perfect" conditions; then read what they define as "severe" conditions and it probably fits what your bike is experiencing..and with "severe" service, they recommend not running the oil 5000 miles.
Personally, I use Mobile1 15w50 car oil in the engine; with rebates that are often available, the price is ~$4 a quart. Even without a rebate, it's ~$5/quart at Walmart.
In the primary, I run Lucas; which can be found for ~$6 quart.
The oil I drain out is still "good", just dirty. So I run it through a homemade 5 micron filter system and reuse it in my lawn equipment and an old car.
Last edited by HDSlimJim; 10-30-2017 at 10:27 AM.
#19
11-03-2017, 01:11 PM
+1 ride almost year round here maybe that why my bikes have high mileage 
Last edited by Heritage98; 11-03-2017 at 01:12 PM.
#20
11-03-2017, 06:20 PM
Tourer
Yeah, but even more important is contaminants in the oil...that's what really matters.
LONG before you "wear out" a good oil, it will be FULL of acids, carbon, water, metal wear particles, etc...that is what wears an engine.
Don't forget the clutch/primary; that will dirty up the oil REAL fast. The transmission can go 5000 easy, but I would not exceed 3000 for the engine/primary.
Most manuals say 5000 miles under "perfect" conditions; then read what they define as "severe" conditions and it probably fits what your bike is experiencing..and with "severe" service, they recommend not running the oil 5000 miles.
Personally, I use Mobile1 15w50 car oil in the engine; with rebates that are often available, the price is ~$4 a quart. Even without a rebate, it's ~$5/quart at Walmart.
In the primary, I run Lucas; which can be found for ~$6 quart.
The oil I drain out is still "good", just dirty. So I run it through a homemade 5 micron filter system and reuse it in my lawn equipment and an old car.
LONG before you "wear out" a good oil, it will be FULL of acids, carbon, water, metal wear particles, etc...that is what wears an engine.
Don't forget the clutch/primary; that will dirty up the oil REAL fast. The transmission can go 5000 easy, but I would not exceed 3000 for the engine/primary.
Most manuals say 5000 miles under "perfect" conditions; then read what they define as "severe" conditions and it probably fits what your bike is experiencing..and with "severe" service, they recommend not running the oil 5000 miles.
Personally, I use Mobile1 15w50 car oil in the engine; with rebates that are often available, the price is ~$4 a quart. Even without a rebate, it's ~$5/quart at Walmart.
In the primary, I run Lucas; which can be found for ~$6 quart.
The oil I drain out is still "good", just dirty. So I run it through a homemade 5 micron filter system and reuse it in my lawn equipment and an old car.