You say that like it's a bad thing. 100% oil will kill an engine in no time. It is unable to protect to it's requirement, which is why it is impossible to find and only meets the oldest of service grades.

You say that like it's a bad thing. ZDDP is a required anti-friction additive Harley wants in their oils. That doesn't mean more is better, but some is specified by Harley. I am 100% positive that Amsoil know what they are doing when formulating their V-Twin oil.

How fairly quickly is fairly quickly? This is why regular service intervals are a must. Synthetic oils are far more robust than non-synthetic, yet non-synthetic users seem to be okay with the service life of their oil.


Probably, which is why a quality synthetic will cover you in those cases. But hey, if you want to run straight 60 wt oil, then feel free. Understand though that even straight 60wt oil will lose it's viscosity rating. Your choice though. Let me pose this for you, will a quality synthetic oil rated at 20W50 be thicker or thinner than a dino 60wt oil at 240F? How about 270F? How about 300F? The answer may surprise you.


Yep, the closer the 2 numbers are, the more robust the oil is. That said, is 20W50 dino oil more or less robust than 15W50 synthetic? Do you know? How much more robust is your 60wt dino oil than 20W50 Amsoil or Redline or Mobil1 or Motul or whatever else? Do you know? If you do not then your assertions are not made in fact, but presume much.

Horsepucky! A quality synthetic oil will and should still test as serviceable when dropped at the recommended intervals. You go on about shearing, but you are aware that the biggest viscosity altering variable in these engines is heat, not shearing, right? That is one of the reasons companies develop V-twin motorcycle oils. They are more heat stable than an automotive specific oil. Diesel oils tend to be as well because of the very large turbo chargers. You want to keep the oil flowing and not getting destroyed by the heat. Yup, part of the additive package you so go on about not being good, also helps the oil withstand the heat, to keep it from breaking down ... and, yes, single wt oil is also susceptible to viscosity degradation due to heat. You see it breaks the molecule chains apart. Smaller molecule chains, lower viscosity. I could go on about how multi-viscosity oil and single viscosity oil molecule chains differ, but I don't want to bore you. BUT, rest assured, they are different.

It is the only point found in fact. The rest is much assumption on your part with no comparative data to support it. Look, I'm not calling anyone a liar, but you are making assertions that are based on either disinformation or misinformation. The best thing anyone can do is follow the service recommendations set out by the manufacturer. If you don't like Syn3 as specified (I for the record don't care for it) then use what you feel better about. If you don't like $12 per qt for Amsoil and prefer $3 per qt for Rotella or whatever, then use that. Just follow the service recommendations. If you've been riding in heavy traffic, then maybe step up the oil changes because miles are less of a factor then. Whatever you do, do not put 100% oil in your crankcase. These engines need the additive packages put in modern oils, and without them will die an unfortunate premature death.

if you wish to go on about how much you know about why engine oil additive packages are bad, then feel free .. but FACT ... they are 100% necessary. Remember I never said more is better, only that they are necessary to some measure.

 

Great post Harkon.....should be a sticky.

 

Are you in any way related to Cliff Claven?

 

Nope, but I've got $50 that puts your IQ in line with Woody Boyds'

 

Careful Cliffy, Carla's behind you with correct info! Best grab that mail pouch and move on.

 

I switched to 100% AMSOIL in both my truck and bike for ALL fluids (everything but transmission fluid in truck).

I change my oil at regular intervals and while I do run my vehicles hard, I take care of them. So I'm not worried at all about having an oil related failure. I noticed my bike seems a little happier running AMSOIL than the Lucas that was in it. and I'm a preferred customer so the pricing is actually cheaper than anything I could buy (that I would put in my vehicles) at any retail location in town, and I make a few bucks buying and selling oil to friends.

 

Ok who has had an Engine, Transmission, or Primary fail due to the oil or lube used?
No one.

 

Religion, politics, and oil.��

Used to be a guy on this forum with 150k plus on a bike that never had anything but Wal-Mart super tech 20w50 conventional in all 3 holes since the first change. But since it wasn't high priced syn it probably wasn't the best oil. Guess his bike didn't know any better. It just kept going.

 

I ran 6500 miles on Amsoil 20w-50 one year. When I changed it at the end of riding season, I sent it out to be to a lab the report came back saying I didn't need to change it.

 

Do you still have that report?

What were the particles in the oil and what was the size count?

The oil itself will stay "good" for a very long time; but it's the particles in the oil that wear the engine...mainly carbon from the burnt gas..that is why you need regular changes.