Okay guys, I’m looking for your opinions on what you prefer and why comparing Redline to Amsoil. I’ve used every Premium brand so far, but have yet to try the Amsoil. I’m very happy with Redline, especially the Primary oil and Transmission Fluid. I’m looking to compare Redline to Amsoil.
My scenario: I’m riding a 2011 FLHX 96” w/ 38,200 miles. Live in South Florida where summer temps average between 90^ - 100^ . I’m running an UltraCool oil cooler.
Which synthetic motor oil, Redline V-Twin 20W50 or Amsoil V-Twin 20W50 (MCVQT) have you had best results with?
Which one performs better in very hot weather?
which of these two oils is best for hot weather riding?

thanks for your input.

Paladen.〰

 

I use redline in primary ...Royal purple 75w-140 in the tranny .... Amsoil 20-50 in engine .... very happy and quieter all around ....took me a while (few oil changes ) to find the right combo

 

Personally, I've found that if a person does enough research, they'll find pros and cons about every kind of oil on the market. I use Redline because my mechanics use it and also because when they showed me the inside of a motor and how every moving part and also on the inside walls of the motor had Redline clinging to it, I thought it was a good idea to use it as well.

 

No experience with Amsoil. I have always had good results with Red Line oil in my vehicles.

Red Line does offer a 20w-60 if you want a thicker oil for your high temps.
Their transmission lube with shockproof has had good reviews when used in Harley Transmissions. (Not so good in the Primary or Sportster shared Trans/primary)

Nothing against Amsoil they make a good product. Red Line is easier for me to get locally. There is a local Red Line distributor that offers free shipping on $99 orders and a 5% discount for pick up.

 

1. Check your owners manual - You may be able to run a straight weight oil if the ambient temp is always 70+ degrees.

Why run a straight weight?

In order to make a multi-weight oil (20w50) additives are added...additives are not oil...they are oil modifiers!

I'm making up these %'s, just to demonstrate:

A 50 weight oil is 100% oil.
A 20w50 oil is 80% oil and 20% modifiers.
A 0w50 oil is 60% oil and 40% modifiers....see what I'm saying..the the more "multi-weight" the oil, the less actual oil in a quart.

So, if you are always running in very warm weather, switch to a straight weight oil listed in your manual.

Which oil to use?

Personally, I believe in changing often rather than paying BIG $$$ for a super oil.

Consider This:
1. You buy the worlds best oil at $100 quart.
2. You mix it with a handful of sand.
Even though you paid $100 for the oil, the sand will ruin your engine...so instead of spending money on an oil I will never wear out before it is full of "sand"; I buy an affordable oil and change it often.

For most of us, "wearing out" the oil never occurs or occurs LONG after the filty oil should have been changed...it's dirty oil that is wearing our engines...and only solution is to change that oil...doesn't matter if it's a $100/quart or $7/quart...if it's dirty, it's harming your engine.

Buy a good brand, with good reviews, whose price is what you consider "affordable" to do changes every ~2000 miles.

For the engine ONLY, I use Mobile! 15w50...5 quart jug is $25 at Walmart...with a rebate you pay less than $4 quart...good stuff...but ONLY for the engine as it has friction modifiers that will screw up your primary.

PS> Buy a K&P reusable oil filter; wrench-head heaven...Aircraft quality...35 micron absolute and 5 micron rated...and you can clean the thing every day if you wanted to

 

Red line oils are a true synthetic oil (ester base),Amsoil is a hydrocracked dyno oil.Does that make amsoil a lesser oil? Of coarse not.Todays motor oils have come along way from years ago.Do we need to spend 15 to 20 bucks a quart for the engine?most likely not.One thing about redline is they do offer a 20 -60 weight oil and for summer running in florida might be the ticket for you.As said already a straight weight oil oil in the dead of summer will work good.but remember this,don't get caught in cold temps with straight 50 or 60 weight oil.You will discover that they don't like to turn over good and when it does start it will make some nasty sounding noise untill the molasses gets moving around.Now as for the tranny and primary,this is where redline shines in super hot temps.personally i would not run a motor oil in the trans,its just not made for that application.Redline tranny fluid with shockproof works extremely well in all temps , especially in over 90 degree temps.The primary any quality oil thats wet clutch compatible will work.This is what i settled on after alot of research and using of different oils,mobile 1 v-twin 20 -50 for the engine,redline with shockproof for the tranny and mobile 1 -4t racing 10-40 in the primary.With these oils i have never had any oil related problems and "NEVER!!!" have any metal on the drain plugs.

 

Mobile 1 v-twin 20w50
This oil carries an SH rating which is obsolete; it should only be used for model year 1996 and older engines.

Q: Why the 21 year old, obsolete, SH rating instead of the latest SN rating?

A: I had a detailed discussion with a Mobile1 tech...long story short...Mobile1 wants to "idiot proof" their motorcycle oil.

The SN rating requires friction modifiers which will screw up a clutch...so Mobile1 had a choice to make....make 1 oil for both the engine AND clutch....or....make 2 oils; one for the clutch (SH) and one for the engine (SN).

They decided to make one oil because they felt there were too many idiots that would put the engine oil in the clutch and then run to social media and shout "MOBILE1 SCREWED UP MY CLUTCH!".

I don't blame them for making one oil (Amsoil also decided to make just one oil, but later gave in to consumer pressure and began making 3 oils; gambling that it's customers were smart enough not get the wrong stuff in the wrong hole).

Knowing this, you may want to consider switching to Mobile1 15w50..it's half the cost and it's an SN rated oil...it's the same oil as the 20w50; less Phos/Zinc, but it has friction modifiers added which greatly reduce....friction!...but it also means it can't be used in a clutch situation.

(Please note >>> I'm not quoting the Mobile1 employee; they did not use the word idiot nor did they disparage their customer base in any way..."idiot proofing" are my words and this is my summary of what I learned, not a transcript of the conversion with Mobile1)

~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~

Mobil 1 Racing™ 4T Motorcycle Oil

Note this is also an SH oil and JASO; safe for the clutch

I think the API rating system needs to be reworked and a motorcycle only spec needs to be developed. When the SH rating was abandoned, clutch ruining friction modifiers became mandatory in order to get the latest rating...so motorcycle oil will never be rated past SH which is already 21 years old!

 

Thats interesting and believable.I have been thinking on trying shaffers i hear nothing but good things about that oil.Correct me if i'm wrong,isn't a high zink and phosphate rating what an air cooled motor needs?or are the friction modifiers more important? any body know?

 

I run Schaeffer in crank, ran out of Amsoil so I gave it a try.My bud is a dealer and for now I'll buy from him. I like it, bike runs a bit cooler as far as gauge is concerned. They too have a full line of lubricants and also ran their gear oil in trans.My bike is '02 softail with 5 speed, I also live in south FL .where temps can get hot, not so much now as we come into winter but most know summers are brutal.

For the 1st time I am running an HD primary oil (Formula + ) and it seems quieter. I'll stick with Schaeffer in crank & trans. since bud is selling to me at his cost but a lot of guys have switched to it and among the 30 or so I know and ride with, all thumbs up ,no complaints, smooth, quiet, heat reducing properties are right up there with the best of the best. Go for it, you wont get hurt and it has good reviews from all that use it. YMMV *** sorry i dont know about the zinc & phosphate rating.When I do ,if post doesnt get you an answer,I'll ask him and send yu a PM when I talk to him tomorrow.

also link to motorcycle lubricants by Schaeffer :http://www.schaefferoil.com/motorcycle-lubricants.html also tech sheet on compounds of Schaeffer : http://www.schaefferoil.com/documents /229-707-td.pdf

 

Phos/Zinc (ZDDP) play a part in wear protection, but they are not the whole Chimichanga...

One negative is they add to carbon buildup and kill catalytic convertors; which is why levels are being reduced and replaced with other "friction modifiers".

This is why motorcycle oils carry a 21 year outdated API rating; they cannot add friction modifiers to replace the ZDDP that is causing carbon buildup and catalytic damage because the friction modifiers screw up the clutch...it's a mess.

15w50 is for "motorsports" and the Mobile1 tech didn't hesitate to recommend it for the engine only of a modern Harley.

Here's what Amsoil has to say about ZDDP:
https://www.amsoil.com/newsstand/cla...ar-protection/

I'll add that when it comes to the Clutch/Primary; what I put in there will have a JASO MA rating...that's the only rating that is focused solely on clutch properties...if it can't meet JASO MA, it's not touching my clutch...Mobile1 racing 4t is JASO MA2...good stuff!