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Oil Basics, Part 1

 
  #11  
Old 02-09-2008, 07:40 PM
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Default RE: Oil Basics, Part 1

ORIGINAL: jcbpa

Thanks for all the info, now just wondering what you use in your bike?

Best,
J
Mobil 1 15w-50 in the Nightster, Havoline 20w-50 in the '87 Sloptail's old motor, but will go Mobil 1 15w-50 in the new crate motor I'm dropping in.
 
  #12  
Old 06-18-2008, 12:38 PM
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Default RE: Oil Basics, Part 1

WHAT WEIGHT IS THE TRANNY OIL ??
 
  #13  
Old 01-12-2009, 01:42 PM
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Hello, oil pros. Can anyone tell me if I need to prime the oil system in a DYNA before start up after replacing the cases and a complete overhaul. I am not getting any oil pressure from the tank to the system. Please help. I am afraid to run the engine anymore before I get pressure. Thanks.

Mike
 
  #14  
Old 11-11-2009, 09:43 AM
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Evil, I would put this in the Engine section. Guys there can help more.

Nomatter what oil you might be using gotta get it to the needed places.

Needs some checking out before something gets tore up.
Takes about a minute to get oil to the top of the heads but you should have pressure quick by the filter or the place the pressure switch is.

I hope you used a lot of assembly lube this will keep things from getting out of hand till sorted out.

good luck
 
  #15  
Old 11-16-2009, 05:08 PM
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I notice Red Line oil was mentioned as being a class V syn oil, or the best, so what class is Amsoil. And If Red Line is that pure why is no one hardly using it.
 
  #16  
Old 01-29-2010, 10:07 PM
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Thanx for a great post. Being a newbie, this helps me out alot.
 
  #17  
Old 06-01-2010, 07:55 PM
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Originally Posted by fireaxxe
I notice Red Line oil was mentioned as being a class V syn oil, or the best, so what class is Amsoil. And If Red Line is that pure why is no one hardly using it.
My thoughts and questions exactly????
 
  #18  
Old 06-11-2010, 09:29 PM
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One thing is for certain...Whether you run the $15/qt synthetic or the $4/qt dino oil, it all drains out black in an air-cooled engine when you get stuck in city traffic at a whopping 1-mph for 20-minutes or at 225-degrees for 250-miles...

Make your choice and stay with it and change your oil/filter on regular intervals...NEVER leave ANY oil in an air cooled motor for more than 3,000 miles!

Just another opinion!
 
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  #19  
Old 08-29-2010, 10:56 AM
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Using Mobil VTwin 20W50 in my 2010 Ultra Limited and feel comfortable with changes in the 4000 to 5000 range. I never do short rides of less than 20 miles and do very little stop and go riding.
 
  #20  
Old 12-02-2010, 05:29 PM
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I have only changed my oil only two times. Once very sucessfully about 5,000 miles ago and (*&%#$*&) today. I had just got back from a 70 mile ride before I started and let it set for about 20 minutes to cool down a little, but it was still warm. Then then drained the oil.

I have a 2007 softail and use Mobil 1 synthetic. So I drained the oil with the filler plug out and I replaced the oil filter just like before. Last time I put in 3 quarts and it was a tiny bit on the full side. Today I put in 1 quart and started to put in the second quart and it has full up into the filler neck. Hmmm?

So I took a nice slow ride around the block and checked the oil level again....Way, way full and I can see the oil just below the filler neck. So I rode it to the gas station just a mile away and back and the oil level is the same... Way full after adding only one and a half quarts or less.

It would seem that all the oil didn't drain out? When I pulled the drain plug I let the pan drain for ay least 10 minutes intil it stopped draining and some of the time I was on it to hold the bike vertical some more might drain out. I pulled the filter like last time with the bike on the kick stand so it would also drain out. Not as much came out of the filter hole as I remembered last time, but I did let it drain over 10 minutes.

So do I just ride it and frequently check the oil level? Any suggestions are appreciated.
 

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