If you have a Menard's Home Improvement store nearby, they have a pretty good price on VR1 20W50, $4.99 per quart and if you want to mess with the rebate, $4.44 per quart. You have to order a six pack if it's not in stock.

 

Have seen it...nearly certain its not synthetic

 

 

 

$4.99/qt...

some folks use synth due to high heat benefits...as I did this summer in Utah and Death Valley California.

For basically the price of a take out pizza ($3 more per qt, 4 qts) you can put a synth in your main and move on with life.

worst case use the 5 quart jug of Mobil 15-50 synth. $25 @ Walmart, or cheaper on sale. Some fellas use that here.
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This assumes we're talking more modern bikes and not an old Shovel or Pan etc....

moving on....good luck.

 

 

Who cares! What's your point?
The UOAs in the link below say VR1 conventional is a better choice than M1 v-twin synthetic anyway. At $4.60/qt by the case at amazon it's obviously the better value as well. The problem with running synthetic is people think it's ok to run it for a stupid amount of miles not thinking about contamination from fuel, moisture, etc. If they didn't, it wouldn't be as cost effective.
Run the VR1 and change it little more often. Your motor will thank you. I change mine every 1500-1800 miles. 2500 miles is probably about right.

Oh, and the conventional VR1 has a higher flashpoint than the synthetic but the VR1 comes in synthetic as well. Both can be used with cats too. People here will tell you otherwise but they are confusing it with the VV 851 Not For Street Legal which has an even higher level of zinc/phosphorus and no detergents and is designed to run for a short time in extreme conditions then dumped making it not so cost effective in passenger vehicles.
Valvoline VR1 20W50 Conventional is an outstanding choice for these air cooled Harley motors where temps can creep up before you know it and is very cost effective as well when compared to synthetic motorcycle oil.
In this case it was run at temps of 300F for an hour. The M1 V-Twin thickened probably from contamination at 5,000 miles! Not the first time either. Apparently Amsoil behaves the same way. This causes wear from undue friction.

Nothing wrong with most synthetic oil as long as you change it more frequently than most think or run the risk of contamination from fuel, moisture, etc. more than you would running a conventional and changing it more often. But as far as protection from the number one cause of engine damage...Heat, Valvoline VR1 Conventional Racing Oil is an excellent choice.

VR1 Conventional VS M1 V-twin & Syn3

 

I'm not an expert by any means, but internal combustion engines have lasted a very long time running conventional oil. And it might just be my experiences, but I've seen some engines consumer more oil when running synthetic vs conventional. My own EG is one of those engines.
I have actually been running the valvoline for years now in all my bikes. I use the vv743 4stroke oil though.

 

Btw, Amazon beats that Menards price. $27.58 for a case. Comes to $4.60/qt. Free delivery. Ordered 2 cases and it was delivered the next day.
That's 4 oil changes for $55.00!

F150HD obviously doesn't understand what the Zinc/Phosphorus in VR1 does for heat protection and that you wont find that level of zinc in his m1 synthetic.
Bet that chart came from the mobile1 website too.

 

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