New owner oil questions
#11
I changed engine oil and filter and transmission oil today, chaincase tomorrow. I see no evidence of cracking or any dry rot on the tires, I’m not sure I’d recognize UV damage. Can someone elaborate?
The battery is definitely on my list. It seems to me that it cranks slowly before it starts.
Chris-
The battery is definitely on my list. It seems to me that it cranks slowly before it starts.
Chris-
Last edited by Cwood8656; 01-26-2019 at 06:47 PM.
#12
Also, I torqued both drain plugs to 16 ft lbs. That's in the low end of the range given in my manual. Seemed REALLY tight to me. What does everybody else do?
#13
In the case of tyres, check the manufacturers date, it is on the sidewalls. If they are original then change them, for exactly the same reason you are changing your oils. The common rule of thumb is to change at around 6/7k miles and some brands have specific recommendations on the manufacturer's website. Also change your brake fluids please! Along with a new battery you will have a refreshed bike ready for anything!
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Cwood8656 (02-02-2019)
#14
Yep, it's part #62600091 80W-140 Synthetic Gear Lube. I am trying to find someone who likes it instead of 20W-50.
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09FLHXrLVNV (02-10-2019)
#15
In the case of tyres, check the manufacturers date, it is on the sidewalls. If they are original then change them, for exactly the same reason you are changing your oils. The common rule of thumb is to change at around 6/7k miles and some brands have specific recommendations on the manufacturer's website. Also change your brake fluids please! Along with a new battery you will have a refreshed bike ready for anything!
#16
It's not too tight. The hole is slightly flared so the o ring nests there. The plug tightens metal to metal against the case, not the o ring.
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Cwood8656 (02-04-2019)
#17
Hell I wil be the guinea pig....I will stop at my local dealer and update y'all soon. Any nay sayers?
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