Got a question for those that have switched to synthetic and are using 15w-50 , why are you going to the extra cost of synthetic and then not using the recommended viscosity? Why not just use 20w-50 synthetic and pay a bit more seeing as you are already going the higher priced path or if cost is a concern just use 20w-50 conventional oil?

 

Whats wrong with using a synthetic 15/50 wt oil that performs as good as a synthetic 20/50 wt oil, for less $$$?.,,

 

$22.00 for 5 gallons VS $50.00... Does the job and well...the 50 number is the number you are looking for... i am pretty sure you could use 0W50 and it would work. low number is the lowest viscosity so runs thinner or acts thinner for the cooler temps and the high number is the thicker side right...really not that much difference...MOCO says you can run 60 weight oil....

 

The 15/50 is just as good or better depending on what temperature you are riding in. I don't see what you are trying to say.

 

Note car and motorcycle oils are exactly the same [ul]most[/ul] of the time. Some car oils marked "energy efficient" have friction modifiers that will cause the wet (oil immersed) clutch to slip. If a car oil does not contain friction modifiers, it will work exactly the same as a bike specific oil and in all likelyhood is the same product if it is from the same manufacturer. I use Castrol synthetic auto oil with no issues.

 

Me too, I haven't had any isue with the castrol and feell better with the cold weather protection as I live in Canada and had my bike out a week and a half ago with no concerns. Auto oil seemed to be good for me and at half the price.

 

The word V-twin or Motorcycle on a Quart of oil is worth Millions of dollars to oil companys.

 

The Mobil1 15w50 will shear to a 40w faster than the 20w50 Vtwin. But if that is no problem for you then use it. I use Redline 20w50. Seems to run the best so for the price point for 3 quarts I figure just use what runs best.