I bought my Sporty from the dealer with 1,300mi.
I put about 600 on it over the course of 4 yrs (its a 2006)
Recently it has been overheating so I'm changing the oils.

For bottom end fuilds:
I am torn between going back to dealer to get Formula+ or trying out this "Red Line" everyone is talking about. I believe the sporty shares primary and trany fluids so I would overall just be changing 1 set of fuilds here.

For the crank:
So far I ordered a K&N chrome oil filter, still waiting on that.

I called the shop I bought it from and they told me it has a "50w non-synthetic" in it. For some reason the dealer mechanic tried to talk me out of synthetic but I'm not sure why as I was assuming I bought it with synthetic.

My HD Certified mechanic buddy told me to get AMSOIL but didn't say which weight. I can't find AMSOIL anywhere near me so should I order "AMSOIL 20W-50 SYNTHETIC" or find an equal weight # but similar brand, for crank? I'm looking for -in the long ride- differences

 

My kid had a '07 883C- it's a sweet bike. I did all the maintenance on it myself- used Formula+ in the tranny/primary (DO NOT use Redline Shockproof Heavy in there, if that's what you're referring to, use the Lightweight S-P) and Syn3 in the engine.

I'd stick with F+ for the tranny/primary because you know it's the right stuff and it does a good job. Engine can use dino or synthetic- HD 360 & Valvoline VR1 are good dinos, and Mobil 1, Redline, Amsoil, and Syn3 are good synthetics. (For a longer change interval go with syn.) Regardless of what flavor oil you go with, 20W-50 is what you want.

Redline & Amsoil can be hard to find locally, and may have to be ordered online. VR1 can be found at auto parts stores, M1 can be had at Wal Mart, and Syn3 & HD360 at your dealer.

 

Thank you, Sir!

That's exactly what I was hoping to hear.

One more question. I was talking to the local automotive. They were all about Royal Purple. Like you said it's all different flavors (to each his own). Have you used it? Its quite expensive so I might just stick to AMSOIL to stay solid.

A customer piped in who owns a V-Twin, he said not to forget Marvel Mystery Oil. I've always used SeaFoam and Lucas in my truck. I guess its basically the same thing. Would you put this in the crank case too or just the fuel tank?

 

Royal Purple is good oil, just expensive. All of the m/c-specific synthetics are and, IMO as a 36-year mechanic, they are needlessly so. There are dino oils these days that when changed every 5000 miles (HD's recommendation regardless of whether dino or syn is used) return wear metal numbers in used oil analyses (UOA's) equal to or better than $10/qt synthetics. And they do it at 1/4 the cost.
Just know that any m/c synthetic will protect your engine long into old age, and so will many dinos. With oil, a high price doesn't necessarily guarantee better protection.

As for MMO, it is a good (occasional) fuel additive, but I don't recommend using it in the oil, or any other oil additive for that matter. Today's oils offer superior protection without aftermarket additives. I have yet to see a UOA that shows an additive has reduced wear in a specific engine as opposed to the same oil without the additive.

I think if you go with F+ in the tranny/primary and Amsoil in the engine, that powertrain will outlive us both...

 

I've experimented with a few different brands of trans lubes, and I'm back to Redline Lightweight Shockproof gear oil, recommended by Redline for Sportsters. It's the only lube I've tried that, if I hold the clutch in for 6-8 seconds, doesn't clunk going into first gear. That tells me it's letting the clutch release completely, which has to be easier on the gears.

Engine oil experimented too. Valvoline dino VR1 20-50w, and straight 60w in summer heat, seems to quieten the valvetrain clatter better than Mobil 1 or Valvoline synthetic VR1, and has a strong additive pack.

IIRC, Royal Purple's gear oil says not to use with shared clutch transmissions.

 

I forgot to make this distinction in my first post; I should have specified Shockproof Heavy shouldn't be used in the Sporty tranny/primary, whereas the Lightweight is OK to use (and good stuff.) Will edit my prior post accordingly.

 

I always had the best results with the HD syn3 in both sumps in my Sportster.

 

great info. i feel like im moto oil certified after this lesson. going to pick up some 20w-50 amsoil right now and see if that brings down the temps.

 

thanks everyone

 

I put in Bel-Ray Sport Trans Fluid.
http://www.belray.com/bel-ray-sport-transmission-fluid
And I now hear a much louder shifting noise than before. Sometimes more than others depending on on fast I engage or disengage the shift. Is this because of the fluid or the adjustment?